I never solder and seldom go under the layout. I run the bus along the front edge of the underside and make all connections on hinged, swing down boards at the front of the layout. When done they swing up and out of sight under the layout.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
I absolutely detest soldering under the layout - so I don't!
I run my major wire runs along the outer L-girder, where they can be reached while sitting in a chair in the aisle. If I was soldering drops to buss wires, that's where I'd do it.
Actually I make all the connections in that context to stud-and-nut terminal blocks (homemade with standard machine screws, nuts, washers and a piece of scrap sheet styrene.) There are things to be said for `soldering' with a speed handle.
I don't insulate my terminal strip connections. Solder-to-buss joints are usually Tee-shaped, and get dabbed with a little liquid insulation (or thick non-conductive paint.) I seldom make the kind of joint that needs a heat-shrink covering. In fact, I have a little box filled with assorted heat-shrink tubes, virtually unused since I bought it.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with bulletproof electricals)
Thanks for all the feedback. I am going to go the car supply store to see if they have the right sized IDCs cheaper. If not, I might look into buying a good pair of wire strippers (probably will anyway, I broke my previous pair cutting a screw (they were kind of a multi-purpose tool)). I really don't feel like soldering a lot under the layout, though.
One question for those that solder; do you use heat shrink to insulate the joint? Thanks for the replies.
Modeling the Maine Central in N scale.
I was on my laptop before, they looked liek the cheapy kind that pull the wire towards the handle, which not only don;t really work for this application, they often don;t work very well at all.
The only difference betwene those and the Ideal ones I have is that the Ideal tool has a die with various wire size holes in it instead of a clamp and blade - stick the wire in the proper hole and it will never ever cut the wire. The dies are replaceable, although I've never seen them at HD, as they make various sizes. When you buy the tool you cna get it in at least 2 versions, with different tanges of wire size it can handle, mine does like #20-#12, perfect since I use 12 or 14 for my bus, and 20 for my feeders. I've seen a version that only has the larger sizes, and I think there's one that is 18 and smaller.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Randy, the ones I have pull the insulation outwards, not toward the handle, They look a lot like the ones Dave linked to at Radio Shack. They seem to work since I just soldered 6 new feeders to my bus.
Paul
Living in Fernley Nevada, about 30 miles east of Reno, also lived in Oregon and California, but born In Brooklyn NY and raised on Long Island NY
Those red-handled ones don't really cut it, sicne they pull the insulation towards the handle. They're ok for stripping the ends of wires, but not nearly as handy as the Ideal one for stripping sections in the middle.
Dunno why everyone seems so put off my soldering. Once I started buildign layouts are actual adult heights, I can now sit underneath instead of tryign to lay down or balance myself in some wierd position. I haven't dripped solder on myself since I was a kid. 100+ watt gun, and you do not EVER apply the solder to the gun tip, but to the wire ont he opposite side fo the conenction - if the wire's hot enough the sodler will melt and suck in, not drip all over you or the floor.
Sorry, but I don't have the room or the inclination to solder under my benchwork, so depending on the situation I use either crimp terminals and terminal strips, or suitcase connectors.
The trick to using suitcase connectors successfully is crimping them with the proper tool. Regular pliers, or even slip joint pliers (Channelocks), don't provide a proper crimp because the v-shaped jaw opening causes the suitcase connector's blade to be driven at an angle.
There is a "proper" tool sold by the electrical supply houses, but it's way too expensive. Instead, look at yard sales or flea markets for geared pliers. I got an Eifel Geared PlieRench years ago for a dollar or two, if that, and their parallel jaw movement means a perfect suitcase crimp every time.
And as others have mentioned, use the proper size suitcase connectors. If you can't find a readily available one that covers your wire gauges for a reasonable price, use a different connection method. For me, that's the crimp terminals and terminal strips.
The red handle ones I have are from Gardner Bender, not Ideal, but work just the same. Back to soldering. Works better and is really pretty quick, and more secure. Probably a lot cheaper too since I have a roll of solder from Radio Shack which I have been using for years and still pleanty left, plus two soldering irons, and flux. Sometimes the old ways are better.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3932546
Thanks Randy,
I have the red handle ones, I do not know if they work, but will try., They seem to work. I never thought of trying them.
The blue-handle strippers from Ideal work perfectly to strip sections in the middle of a long run of wire. They aren't cheap but they are simply the best wire strippers, and since they are all metal they will last a lifetime. You can get them at Home Depot or Lowes. Klein also has a similar tool that is just as good.
In the past I have used non-insulated 14 gauge wire as bus wires and soldered my feeders directly to them. Without color insulation, it was easy to get left and right rail wires mixed up.
I have recently started using the suitecase type connectors, easy to use, no mess, but on the expensive side. Plus I am not sure how reliable the connections will be in the future.
So if I go back to soldering, does anyone have an easy method of stripping small sections of wire to solder to, on a long run of wire?
If your time is valuable, use the (fillinthe - perjorative - blanks) and press on. When, weeks, months or years later you suddenly have an intermittent open you'll know where to look.
If, like me, you can afford to trade time for money, I can replace a half-dozen $0.27 < $0.50 per each connectors with one screw, eight washers and two nuts - total a lot less than the price of one connector. Or I can solder two wires together and dab the joint with liquid insulator for even less. And I won't ever have a mysterious intermittent open circuit.
My `built in 1980' module has been moved between locations in four states. The solder and screw terminal connections are still sound. If I had made them with suitcase connectors they might or might not be - but no bookie I know would have covered a bet for 100% reliability. (I live in a place where bookies are engaged in legal activity.)
I used the 3M ScotchLok #558 for 16 gauge buss wire to 22 gauge feeders. I agree with buy the 3M brand...the off-brands (Amazon has one that's even listed as Scotch-Lok) are different (e.g., one jaw versus two) and a price too good to be true. I got mine from Mouser, I think (their menu is a challenge to navigate). About 27 cents apiece I recall; delivered in 2-3 days. Edit...I found the link.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/3M-Electronic-Specialty/558-BULK/?qs=fltJrqpyVmX8zyTdop8BPoP7qHS7e7V8zos25RkeOc8%3d
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Item 905 on this page https://www.theelectricaldepot.com/pdf/scotchlok/3M%20Displacement%20Connectors.pdf seems to be within the ranges you want.
I'd use a Scotchlok item.....sometimes cheaper is not better.
You really should look for terminal connectors closer to your wire size to be safe.
However, as you have indicated that you purchased a set, try one out, then check the connection by trying to pull the wires, if they do not come out by pulling on the wires you should be ok.
20 AWG is outside the wire size range. Why are you seeking a second opinion?
I am not a fan of those connectors anyway. There are many secure ways to connect wire, I use terminal strips. Others use wire nuts, or just strip and solder.
Check with you auto parts house, very common and should be in stock, but 50 cents is too much. You could also sodor and wrap with elect tape.
I am using 16 AWG wire for my 20 ft DCC bus, and 20 AWG for my feeders to the track. I purchased these (they are marked 18 - 14 on the box, same model number) because they were cheap and the only ones I could find. Do you think that they would work with that size wire, or do you recommend some other product? My Home Depot does not have any, and they are 50c a piece at the hardware store.