Bus-Feeder wire connection

[MonkeyBucket]

My layout is only small so I am happy to roll with the single ground BUS. All my isolating switches (DC layout) are fed by a BUS and feed the layout via DPST switches. The same switch runs the LED indicator lights on the control panel. DCC seems so much neater and simpler to wire. I can see where isolating the frogs on points come into play.  

This is my spaghetti control panel

the looped wires are feeders. The rest go to 3 different BUS cards. I am using printed circuit board. Lots of soldering.

[Phoebe Vet]

PS:

If anyone is thinking of wiring in a similar way, put the barrier strips farther apart.

[Phoebe Vet]

pascaff*

Dave, very neat wiring job. What are you using to attach the wire to the base? All of the clips, tacks, staples I have found so far are too large for the small 16 and 14 gauge wire I am using.

Paul

I use a stapler with a standoff attachment meant to keep the staple from crushing wire, but I don't use it on the wire.  I use dollar store cable straps run under the staple.  It is inexpensive and easily changed if I need to add or remove a wire.  I tried the peel and stick wire guides, but they don't stay very well on wood.  I label everything.  All wire connections are on swing down boards at the front edge.  I left room under the barrier strips so I can add detection in the future.  I can just remove the jumper and wire the detector right there.

[tomikawaTT]

I can appreciate being reluctant to go spelunking under a layout - being about as flexible as a cast iron pipe.  My solution is to run all of my electricals along the edge of the benchwork, then work from a chair in the aisleway.  A straightened coathanger does wonders for pulling drops out to where they can be connected.

As for connections, for DCC busses, make mine solder.  The price of a dozen suitcase connectors will buy enough solder and flux to do at least a hundred connections.  (Since my objections to opinions about anything that might nick the wire are well known, I'll stop there.)

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

[rrinker]

 After enlarging the picture it looks like he is using zip ties and then stapling them. Or more likely, driving in a staple, the applying the zip tie.

 I use those little squares that are made to anchor zip ties. They had an adhesive back but it never holds on the wood under the layout - it does hold long enough to drive a short screw into the hole provided though. Bag of 100 is a couple of bucks at Home Depot.

                            --Randy

[pascaff*]

Dave, very neat wiring job. What are you using to attach the wire to the base? All of the clips, tacks, staples I have found so far are too large for the small 16 and 14 gauge wire I am using.

Paul

[peahrens]

I've got a much smaller new DCC HO layout...less than 6x11, in early construction.  For what it's worth, after reading many posts, I've used suitcase connectors so far. 

I ordered (from Amazon) some "Scotch-Lok" connectors (for 16 to 22 gauge in my case) for my (only) 16 gauge bus to 22 gage solid feeders. First, I discovered that ScotchLok ain't necessarily ScotchLok on the web.  The Amazon ones advertised and delivered were labeled "Scotch-Lok" but were not the 3M ScotchLoks.  They were too good to be true pricing, had single versus dual teeth, etc.  While only $8 plus shipping for 200, I returned them to make a point.  Make sure you get correct 3M for the gauge you need, in my case #558,  (reply if you need a link, but I think I got them from Mouser).

And do get an appropriate crimping tool, though you'll see in other threads that some use Channeloks/etc. .  The official tool is very expensive ($75 or so)).  Again, I ordered online and someone advertising a straight jaw (recommended by many) Robogrip tool sent a curved jaw one. I protested that too and they credited it and wrote it off.  Found a Robogrip set at Sears that had the large straight jaw version and a small curved jaw one (for general use) for $24.

Anyway, despite these more than usual problems, I'm very ok with the suitcase connector approach. There was some learning how to get the 3M suitcase connector teeth to bite right and then get the cover crimped (clicked) closed without disturbing the connecting teeth, but it's not a big issue.  Of course, I'm early in the game and could have reliability issues later that soldering would preclude.  

If using sutcase connectors, I'd advise first, decide what type (gauge & stranded/solid) wire you will use for buses (depending on length) and feeders.  In the end, I found my 16 gauge stranded bus wire at Lowes (or HD) but ordered my 22 gauge solid feeders from the web to get the colors I wanted (for busses, frogs, etc).  

[Phoebe Vet]

I don't like suitcase connectors.  I use terminal strips.

[mfm37]

I solder feeders to my bus.

Martin Myers

[pascaff*]

I have used three different methods on several layouts over the years.

The first one was stripping the insulation off the 14 gauge buss wire then soldering the feeders.

The second was bare 14 gauge wire for the buss, at least a foot apart so chance of a short, and soldering the feeders.

I am now using suitecase connectors. Once I realized I did not have to squeeze them so hard I have not had any issues. The older I get the less time I want to spend crawling around under the layout. and I can get done quicker with the suitcase connectors.

   Paul

[wp8thsub]

HHPATH56

I have an HO layout, with 268 yds of track and 110 turnouts that, I am wiring for DCC. Do most modelers usually use suitcase connectors to connect the bus wire to the feeder wire?

I don't know about "most," but quality suitcase connectors are a viable solution.   I use Scotchlok brand, and I've never experienced a failure.  I dislike crawling around under the layout stripping and soldering wires, and using suitcases makes wiring quick.

I am concerned as to the placement and number of reverse loop modules that will be required, to prevent shorts. ...I plan to hire a knowledgeable DCC model railroader, to help complete the wiring of my layout.

I'd say it's best to have your DCC expert judge in person how best to handle all the reversing sections due to the complexity of the track plan you posted.  To prevent problems with auto reversing modules, keep each reversing section longer than the longest train you plan to run through them; having shorter sections can create a situation where the reverser can't resolve the shorts at both ends at once.

[chugg]

I do the same thing . I use an auto stripper on the bus wire which pulls the insulation back about a half inch.

Then I wrap the feeder two wraps around the buss as tight as I can and solder using a 100/150 watt gun. I like to solder. Jim can keep his suitcase connectors.

have fun,

Philip

[rrinker]

 I use a wire stripper, the Ideal Stripmaster (Klein has a similar one) that lets you strip wire in the middle of a run. I wrap my feeder wires around this and solder. No suitcase connectors for me. Fast, easy, and cheap. Do not fear the solder. It's only wire to wire, nothing delicate, so some ham-handedness is tolerated. Use a fairly hefty soldering gun, not a weak little 40 watt iron.

                    --Randy

 

[HHPATH56]

I have an HO layout, with 268 yds of track and 110 turnouts that, I am wiring for DCC. Do most modelers usually use suitcase connectors to connect the bus wire to the feeder wire? My layout is divided into five power districts, with many reverse loops, wyes,crossovers.and run-arounds. I am concerned as to the placement and number of reverse loop modules that will be required, to prevent shorts. One seven track pass-through yard connects to the mainline, and six other tracks, on both ends, before merging to a single track over a river. The following photo does not show all of the present merging of tracks. Since I am handicapped,and cannot crawl under my layout, I plan to hire a knowledgeable DCC model railroader, to help complete the wiring of my layout. Bob Hahn