sakel i think lionel made a promo about that in 1950-something. Lets just say it did not end well. ;)
i think lionel made a promo about that in 1950-something. Lets just say it did not end well. ;)
..........at least not for the turkey.
Samuel A. Kelly
I can draw pictures with my keyboard!
-------- ( It's a worm)
It runs very smooth and I am somewhat impressed by the overall quality. The power pack does get quite warm even when in the stop position. I have a box of power packs in the train room so I will use one of these if I haul it out at Christmas.
The kids want it to go on the table at Christmas Dinner. We have a special extra large table we use at Christmas because we usually get about 20 in for Christmas Dinner. Even the wife said it would fit. I couldn't believe my ears when I heard her say that. My daughter said the gravy can go on the flat car and the Turkey Legs can be delivered in the Gondola. Sounds perfect for this train lovin Turkey carver.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
That looks like a better quality one, but when my oldest son was 3 I got him a Lionel large scale Thomas set, and ONCE I forgot to unplug the power pack and it literally melted. There was no short, the train wasn't running, the speed control was in the stop position - it just overheated and melted, and I was just lucky it didn't set the carpet on fire. I ended up having to use my Tech II 1500 to run it. I never saw such a junky power pack, even in a train set, before. Yours looks a lot nicer, so you shouldn;t have a problem. Just remember to unplug it.
This is why my entire train room is powered by a pair of X10 modules - one turns off the layout, one turns off the workbench. NOTHING powered or even connected to the power, other than through open switch contacts, when I'm not there.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Glad to be of help. Enjoy.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
Thanks Elmer and Randy.
The lights are lit, the chuff is chuffing and the whistle is blowing. Learning that those pins can come out of the plugs and how to do it was great. Any day you learn something new is a good day. Thanks again.
It has to be lined up the right way, so the tab can snap back in the shell at the openign there shown on the first pic - that's what holds the pin in place as you plug it in tot he other end of the connection. That's what was wrong with my first PCM T-1, one of the pins was in the shell backwards, so when the connector got plugged in, instead of makign contact it just shoved the pin out, thus no pickup from one side of the tender.
Assuming you didn't get solder on the outside as you say, and didn;t otherwise crush the pin by clamping ti too tight while soldering the wire back, it should just push back in. The larger size connectors might take a bit of force, but ti should push in. If it goes most of the way, a small screwdrive cna push on the pin, just don;t slip off and slice the wire or you get to do it all over again. There is a special tool for those types of conenctors, but it is generally used for extraction of the pins. Larger ones like that usually a small screwdriver pressed in the side tab will release it.
Thanks Elmer!
I got the pin out and soldered it to the wire. I am having trouble getting the pin back in. There is no solder in the way, I think I did a pretty neat and tidy job soldering. Is there a trick in getting the pin back in?
You should be able to remove the metal pin that is in the plug. There is a 'stop' somewhere that you should be able to push down, on the metal pin, then push the pin back out. Now you can resolder the wire on the pin and push it all back in the plug. Just take your time.
I got this "G Scale" Christmas train at a garage sale for $25.00. It runs great including a smoking chimney that we discovered as it was running around the eight foot oval on the living room floor last night. The whistle doesn't sound and further investigation showed this wire pulled out of the plug. I am thinking of pushing it back in as there are no visible broken bits in the plug, it appears to have just pulled out. So should I just push it in and add some glue to hold it or is there another way to proceed? I would like to solder it but that would melt the plastic plug. As you can see the plug is quite large being "G Scale".
I was going to ask over on the "G Scale" forum but I thought we HO-ers and "N Scalers" should be able to handle something like this.
As always thanks.