Just received my new Walthers Cornerstone DCC 130' turntable and am reading the instructions. I plan to use it in DCC mode. I run my layout with a Digitrax Zephyr DC150 and I have a Digitrax Dual IR/Radio wireless throttle as well.
The instructions for the turntable say I need a booster to power it in DCC mode. I guess this is something I can get from Digitrax or some other supplier.
Any suggestions on the best item to get?
No, see the other thread on the same thing (ok the other one is the 90' version - same thing, just smaller bridge).
The instructions are generic. The device in a DCC system which supplies power at sufficient levels to operate locos is called a 'booster'. Every DCC system has one and ONLY ONE command station, and at least one, but possibly more, boosters. The base system you buy from anyone has the command station and booster, often in the same physical box.
ALso, as in the othe thread, unless you actualyl want to make the turntable spin from the DCC throttle, instead of using the control box that comes with it, then hookign it to an alternate power source is better so as not to waste 'expensive' DCC power.
The wires for the bridge tracks MUST be connected to the DCC track - otherwise you won;t be able to run a loco across it. But the other pair of wires, for pwoering the turntable mechanism itself, can be connected to any sufficient pwoer source. Only connect it to DCC if youa ctually want to operate the turntable via DCC, which to me is a lot more awkward than the easy to use control box it ocmes with.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Your Digitrax Zephyr DC150 is a booster.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
If it is the same as the older DCC 130 ft turntable, you can probably pick up a power supply for the turntable controller from Radio Shack or some other supplier. I think there is a prior thread on this subject somewhere on the website. I believe it cost me about $9.00.
The thing you need to pay attention to are the specs Walthers publishes in the instructions for the power supply.
rrinker ALso, as in the othe thread, unless you actualyl want to make the turntable spin from the DCC throttle, instead of using the control box that comes with it, then hookign it to an alternate power source is better so as not to waste 'expensive' DCC power......... Only connect it to DCC if youa ctually want to operate the turntable via DCC, which to me is a lot more awkward than the easy to use control box it ocmes with. --Randy
ALso, as in the othe thread, unless you actualyl want to make the turntable spin from the DCC throttle, instead of using the control box that comes with it, then hookign it to an alternate power source is better so as not to waste 'expensive' DCC power......... Only connect it to DCC if youa ctually want to operate the turntable via DCC, which to me is a lot more awkward than the easy to use control box it ocmes with.
Thanks, fellows for the answers.
Randy, before writing the post I kind of came to the same conclusion just from reading the instructions over once. Seems a lot more "fiddling" to run each storage track with its own DCC address than to use the DC controller box. But I wasn't sure until reading your answer.
Should you need a booster int he future, check out the one at Tam Valley Depot
Co-owner of the proposed CT River Valley RR (HO scale) http://home.comcast.net/~docinct/CTRiverValleyRR/
I just installed my 90 ft dcc turntable and wired it to my existing booster on my 5 amp NCE Power Pro DCC system. I have a RRampmeter on my system, With nothing running on my layout, a few locos on the track. I show a current draw do .002 to .003 amps. With the turntable connected but idle I show a current draw do .006 amps, and a draw of .008 amps with the turntable moving.
My conclusion is the current draw is so minimal that I'm going to leave my turntable connected to my booster.