Thanks everyone. I've ordered a Keystone USA-19HS USB to Serial converter (3' long, $27 at Amazon) and a 10' StarTech.com Straight Through Serial Cable M/F ($6 at Amazon).
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Walmart sells 10' USB cable, it's no real special PC cable. It's a 4 wire cable! A USB cable comes with Decoder Pro, i've been using the same cable that came with 6' long for 4+ years with no problems. The one 10' at Walmart is about $6.00. Jim
For going only 10 feet, I don't think a USB repeater or USB hub would be required, just a USB extension cable. (Not necessarily the easiest to find.)
I have an NCE Power Pro system and am using the Keyspan serial to USB adapter. (Other brands have been known to cause problems and not work correctly.) The serial cable that you want is also commonly called a "Serial Extension cable". Do not get an cable that is just called a Serial cable. Specify EXTENSION cable.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
rrinker WHile I'm sure that would work... a 9 pin serial extension cable is $4 for 10'. --Randy
a 9 pin serial extension cable is $4 for 10'.
--Randy
No argument from me there. A straight-through, 9-pin serial cable would certainly be less expensive. I was just responding to your comments that it might be a challenge to obtain the correct one:
rrinkerGetting a correct extension cable, now that's the bigger issue. Some cables cross over, others are straight through, and since serial ports are passe' these days, not too many peopel can intelligently tell you which is which.
WHile I'm sure that would work...
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker As long as it's a powered hub it should work that way.
I didn't suggest using a USB hub. I suggested using a USB Repeater. Two different animals.
A powered USB hub doesn't boost the signal level. Two of the pins carry +5v and ground, which is why you can charge stuff by plugging it into a USB port. But they're limited to 500ma by the USB spec. A powered hub just supplies that 500ma to all it's output ports, instead of splitting the 500ma supplied by the upstream port it's plugged into (ie, your PC or laptop).
OTOH, a USB Repeater uses that 500ma to power active circuitry to boost the USB data signal itself, and allows you to extend past the 16-foot limit of a passive USB cable.
This one's way longer than the OP said he needs but it gives you an idea of what I'm talking about:
http://www.tripplite.com/en/products/model.cfm?txtModelID=4986
As long as it's a powered hub it should work that way. But then there's another wall wart to plug in to power it. A cable is almost needed witht he Keyspan adapter because for whatever reason, the serial port side is set back under the plastic shell containing the circuitry and it doesn't always fit tightly in the connector on the PowerPro unit. But, Keyspan is the brand most often reported as working reliably. I have a Radio Shack one that doesn't have a giant shell, and is 6 feet long, that works great with my old serial port Locobuffer, but I don't think the one they sell now is the same as this one I bought a couple of years ago. The RS one even works on Linux - I installed JMRI under Linux for my layout computer.
peahrens suggestions to go to a Decoder Pro site, etc.
That's actually a really good suggestion. The folks who write the JMRI code also build the Web site and hang out on the JMRI Yahoo! group. You won't get a more definitive answer, or even a fix if the code is bad, than you would there.
http://jmri.org/
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jmriusers/
Having said that, Randy summarized pretty well what you need to do although he did leave out one possible option: Rather than trying to find a long serial cable, you may want to try a USB repeater (NOT just a USB extension cable) between your computer and the USB to Serial adapter.
In other words, instead of this:
PC-->USB/Serial adapter--> long serial cable-->PH Pro
You might try this:
PC-->USB Repeater-->USB/Serial adapter-->PH Pro
I have no idea if that would work as I've never had a need to try it, but that's the kind of question which I'm sure would generate discussion on the JMRI Yahoo! group.
Most any that have drivers for Windows Vista should work. Common ones that are known to work are Keyspan ones.
Getting a correct extension cable, now that's the bigger issue. Some cables cross over, others are straight through, and since serial ports are passe' these days, not too many peopel can intelligently tell you which is which. You need a stright through cable to extend the serial port end. USB is pickier about distance, especially since the adapter is powered fromt he USB port, and too long a cable has too much voltage drop. You want to extend on the serial side, a 9-pin straight through Male to Female extension cable can be had in many different lengths, 6' is common. Critical part - STRAIGHT THROUGH, NOT a null modem.
I will want to try programming with Decoder Pro on my HO layout with my new NCE PH Powerpro 5A system so I want to procure the right hookups. I will want to connect from the command station RS232 port to my HP (Vista Home Premium) PC USB port (no serial port) and have a 10' cable run (if feasible). I understand I will need a serial/USB converter cable, but old threads seem to indicate many compatibility or physical connection problems, suggestions to go to a Decoder Pro site, etc. Can someone cut through all this and tell me (a) if there's a certain serial/USB cable to get that will work for my setup and (b) if there's not a 10' or so converter cable, can I add an extender cable on the serial or USB side?
I will have a program track on my layout with a DPDT switch for that spur (Oper or Prog), if that matters.
I sent a similar inquiry to NCE (the manual makes it sound simple...just get an adapter cable, most work). But if anyone can say "just get one of these and one of those and you're done" I'd love that as I'm hoping to avoid a lot of complexity here if I can.
Thanks.