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Securing LEDs with clear parts cement

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  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: S.E. Adirondacks, NY
  • 3,246 posts
Posted by modelmaker51 on Thursday, May 3, 2012 7:24 PM

I use CA to bond LEDs to light pipes and fiber optics. If I'm using larger LEDs (3 & 5mm) I flatten the front of the LED with a file, then use a drop of Medium CA to glue the LED to the end of the light pipe or fiber, sometimes I give the join a spritz of CA Acceleorator, especialy in akward positions.. The CA has little or no effect on the light transmission. I also use the shrink tubing method and sometimes both to block the light.

Jay 

C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1 

Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums 

  • Member since
    July 2010
  • 174 posts
Posted by Hergy on Thursday, May 3, 2012 6:42 PM

Oops, double post, sorry.

  • Member since
    July 2010
  • 174 posts
Posted by Hergy on Thursday, May 3, 2012 10:34 AM

Steve Gill, from Ulrich Models uses the following:

"Instant Glue – I use Hot Stuff, Gap Filling, Instant Glue. It has an orange label. I have tested many CA glues and I have found this one to be quick setting, great at bonding, and strong. Use a gap filling CA that sets in 10-25 seconds. The instant glue is used to reattach the ditch light housings to the platform, install LEDs into the ditch light housings, glue LEDs with attached fiber optics into the lamp holes in the shell and attach the headlight and backup light lenses."

I have not tried this because I haven't been able to find any. Steve has a lot of good articles on his website on lighting and DCC installs.

Dick

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: South Carolina
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Posted by Train Modeler on Tuesday, May 1, 2012 1:09 PM

I have used Goop on many things for my boat and car, but not trains.  That's a good idea since it doesn't turn color hardly at all.

Richard

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Sierra Vista, Arizona
  • 13,757 posts
Posted by cacole on Tuesday, May 1, 2012 10:38 AM

I like to use Goop for such installations, which is a clear silicon.  Goop comes in many different types but they all seem to be the same product, just different packaging.  

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Monday, April 30, 2012 4:38 PM

 The Faller Xpert Cement is supposed to work good with acrylic light pipes as well, but I haven't tried it. The ones I've done with light pipes I either used heat shrink or a little dab of regular Elmer's glue. Elmer's doesn;t stick that well, but it will hold things in place, they won;t fall off, but if you need to pop thigns apart a gentle tug with seperate them. Caulk is another option I have yet to try, but it makes sense.

                           --Randy


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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  • Member since
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  • From: Northeast OH
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Posted by tstage on Monday, April 30, 2012 3:40 PM

Nothing wrong with that, Bruce.  I recently used 5/32" OD styrene tubing to create a light tube for a rear headlight on a Walthers SW1 switcher.  I drilled out the ID with a #32 (0.116" OD) drill bit then press fit the LED into the light tube.  Worked very well.

Tom

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Mt. Laurel, NJ
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Posted by Osibisa on Monday, April 30, 2012 3:20 PM

Thanks Tom,

3mm with H/S tubing is my normal mounting method, even at a junction with several strands of fiber.

Just wanted to try something a little different this time.

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Posted by tstage on Monday, April 30, 2012 12:00 PM

Bruce,

Is it possible to use heat shrink and 3mm LEDs at the end of the light pipes?  The heat shrink aligns both the LED and light pipe and can easily be removed when (not if) the LED burns out.  I've used this on a number of locomotives without issue.

Tom

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Mt. Laurel, NJ
  • 71 posts
Securing LEDs with clear parts cement
Posted by Osibisa on Monday, April 30, 2012 10:22 AM

I have a few pending installations where itr would be more beneficial to mount sub miniature LEDs directly on the ends of light pipes. While clear parts cement (model Master) is supposed to be non-crazing, I would like to be sure this mounting method would work.

Anyone used this method before?

 

Bruce

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