I have a few pending installations where itr would be more beneficial to mount sub miniature LEDs directly on the ends of light pipes. While clear parts cement (model Master) is supposed to be non-crazing, I would like to be sure this mounting method would work.
Anyone used this method before?
Bruce
Bruce,
Is it possible to use heat shrink and 3mm LEDs at the end of the light pipes? The heat shrink aligns both the LED and light pipe and can easily be removed when (not if) the LED burns out. I've used this on a number of locomotives without issue.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Thanks Tom,
3mm with H/S tubing is my normal mounting method, even at a junction with several strands of fiber.
Just wanted to try something a little different this time.
Nothing wrong with that, Bruce. I recently used 5/32" OD styrene tubing to create a light tube for a rear headlight on a Walthers SW1 switcher. I drilled out the ID with a #32 (0.116" OD) drill bit then press fit the LED into the light tube. Worked very well.
The Faller Xpert Cement is supposed to work good with acrylic light pipes as well, but I haven't tried it. The ones I've done with light pipes I either used heat shrink or a little dab of regular Elmer's glue. Elmer's doesn;t stick that well, but it will hold things in place, they won;t fall off, but if you need to pop thigns apart a gentle tug with seperate them. Caulk is another option I have yet to try, but it makes sense.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I like to use Goop for such installations, which is a clear silicon. Goop comes in many different types but they all seem to be the same product, just different packaging.
I have used Goop on many things for my boat and car, but not trains. That's a good idea since it doesn't turn color hardly at all.
Richard
Steve Gill, from Ulrich Models uses the following:
"Instant Glue – I use Hot Stuff, Gap Filling, Instant Glue. It has an orange label. I have tested many CA glues and I have found this one to be quick setting, great at bonding, and strong. Use a gap filling CA that sets in 10-25 seconds. The instant glue is used to reattach the ditch light housings to the platform, install LEDs into the ditch light housings, glue LEDs with attached fiber optics into the lamp holes in the shell and attach the headlight and backup light lenses."
I have not tried this because I haven't been able to find any. Steve has a lot of good articles on his website on lighting and DCC installs.
Dick
Oops, double post, sorry.
I use CA to bond LEDs to light pipes and fiber optics. If I'm using larger LEDs (3 & 5mm) I flatten the front of the LED with a file, then use a drop of Medium CA to glue the LED to the end of the light pipe or fiber, sometimes I give the join a spritz of CA Acceleorator, especialy in akward positions.. The CA has little or no effect on the light transmission. I also use the shrink tubing method and sometimes both to block the light.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums