I practiced using wire strippers by taking the strippers doing one side then moving down the bus 1/2 inch and stripping in the same direction. then using Xacto knife cut across the 2 sections it doesn't harm the buss I found.
NickyB
The way I use to make my buss connection is with a cheap wire stripper that has a blade on each side of the handle. Select the hole for the proper gauge. Make two cuts, (about a half inch apart) down to the wire, and then cut the piece of insulation out with a knife.
Works for me.
Have fun.
Lee
Wire nuts and suite case connecters do it all.
Ken G Price My N-Scale Layout
Digitrax Super Empire Builder Radio System. South Valley Texas Railroad. SVTRR
N-Scale out west. 1996-1998 or so! UP, SP, Missouri Pacific, C&NW.
I make all my connections at terminal strips.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
One nick-free way of clearing the insulation on a large solid wire - squeeze it between the jaws of a pair of bulldog pliers (the kind with the short, square jaws and serrations perpendicular to the tip.) Done right, the insulation will split and the loops can be pulled away from the wire, then cleaned up with a pair of miniature diagonal cutters.
I, personally, prefer to make my `splices' at stud-and-nut terminals on terminal blocks.
As for suitcase connectors, I think they make excellent dumpster fillers. As a former aircraft QC inspector, I can assure you that you'll never, ever, find one inboard of an aircraft's outer skin.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Some good suggestions so far. In addition, sometimes I melt the insulation away with a soldering iron, not on the tip but higher up on the barrell, past the tinned area of the iron.
Richard
Well, there *is* a reason for not mentioning suitcases, since they will not work to attach an 22 ga feeder to a 14 ga bus wire.
But then if you are using a 12 or 14 ga bus wire, it should be a solid wire, and it is simple to pare off a half inch strip of insulation to which you can solder your feeders.
LION is considering using bus bars for his track power. If he does so, this will be about the 5th time to redo the wires on this layout. What the bus bar buys me (considering I have over 1000' of track) is the opportunity to bolt truck lights to the bar, and to feed the track through the lamp. The power to the train just passes through the filament as if it was not there, but if there is a short or a derailment, the light comes on using the current up and protecting the layout. It also tells me where the problem is, since with eight trains running at once, the location of the problem is not always obvious.
Well, ignore that last part, LIONS just do things differently.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
No one suggested "suit case connectors". No soldering , no stripping.,i use the red ones for 18 ga. wire available at the local electrical supply store. Some one else may be able to give the proper name for them.Now to really raise some eyebrows, I use wire nuts for connecting three ends. There are no soldered connections under my layout.
STP
jerrold
I use these. They work great for most stranded wire. Some solid wire have a shield over the insulation that will not work with these strippers.
http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-2078300-Self-Adjusting-Stripper/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=dp_cp_ob_hi_title_0
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
Once it was where I needed a break in the wire anyway. The other one, well, there is a large #14 splice under the layout somewhere
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Hands up everyone who has inadvertently slid his 14 gauge solid strand copper wire into a 16 gauge slot on the wire strippers........
D'Ohhhh!!!
Klein, or the Ideal Stripmaster, almost the same tool - either of these will neatly strip wire in the middle without cutting through the conductors (unless you use the wrong size hole - like trying to clamp the #18 hole in the cutting die around #14 wire). I have a pair of these and use them to strip spots aroundmy bus wires to wrap the feeders around. Very slick, and worth the money (they're a bit more expensive than cheapy wire cutters - but again, well worth it).
I use a wire stripper that does most of the wire sizes we use in model railroading (AWG 22-14). The tool that I use is made "Klein". You have to get under your benchwork and get the tool aligned with the size wire that you want to strip. Take your time and get it aligned just right, and it will do a neat job. It leaves a space about .25 - .50inch. Practice on a scrap piece of wire to get the hang of it. Mine works great.
I want to splice a wire into the mid-length (T junction) of another wire. When I cut the plastic sheath I'm in danger of cutting the wire through. I've tried 'shaving' the plastic off but doing this on the underside of the bench is tricky. Anybody have tips or tricks to do this neatly? Is it just easier to just cut though and then just solder the 3 ends together?
PS - got my first section of track down with Cobalt turnout motors and electrofrogs all working nicely. Thanks to all who gave me great advice. Not quite as hard as I thought but I may have spoken too soon.