Thanks to all of you who gave me tips, I now have 2 Steam Engines converted. The only problem I encountered was that when I installed a Digitrax sound decoder the Engine would try to run but only sputterd along a half inch at a time. I changed out the decoder to a run only decoder and the Engine runs fine. I think the sound decoder must have a bad capacitor.
http://mwcohio.blogspot.com
Thanks for the links, Ill replace the magnets and insulate the spring. That was very helpfull. Mark
Mark.
Older open frame motors draw a considerable amount of current just to turn the armature. Replacing the iron magnet with more powerful rare earth magnets will improve not only the current draw but also the low speed power of the motor. Stacking some of these is the best option for most open frame motors.
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=B842
If you look at the motor there will be a torsion spring that pushes the brush holders at the top. One of the springs will have some sort of insulation between the spring and brush holder. The other is just metal to metal contact. If you were to slip a piece of wire insulation between the spring and brush holder this will isolate that brush as in the other side. Then your orange and grey wires can be soldered to each brush holder. In this picture you will see the red insulation next to the red wire that goes to the tender draw bar. All I did was to slip a piece of wire insulation on the spring closest to the camera just as the other side.
http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j348/locoi1sa/F3c%202-6-0/SAM_0407.jpg
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
Yes, it is open frame. If I knew how to post a picture I could show you.
Is this an open frame motor?
Thanks, I just ordered some 2-56 nylon screws and I have the tape. Cant wait to see this Engine in action! Mark
Once you isolate the motor, it's not too hard. Just remember the wires connected to track power have to go to the decoder and not to the motor. Then two wires go from the decoder to the motor.
If memory serves, it's a nylon 2-56 screw you need. Most hobby shops will have them.
Use a layer of Kapton tape between the motor frame and loco frame, plus the nylon screw.
Make sure the two holes for the screw are flat with no edge sticking up a little.
I did a similar install in a older style diesel and one hole had a little ridge and needed to be filed smooth.
Kapton tape is thin and tough but a sharp edge will press thought the tape. It did happen with my conversion.
Regular black electrical tape I found to be too thick and can cause too much clearance between the motor worm and worm gear..
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
When I remove the motor mount screw the continuity between the frame and the motor goes away, so it looks like I need to find a nylon screw. Does the rest of my wiring description sound reasonable? By the way Jim, thanks for the Link!
Mark I assume this is your first hard wire decoder install? You must completely isolate the motor brush's from the frame. One of those brush's is in constant contact with the frame. Take a look here, Jim
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/hmmikado.htm
Could you be a bit more specific?
First, however, you WILL have to isolate the motor electrically from the frame. At that point I'd spend the money for a can motor from Northwest Short Line or somebody.
Michael
Disclaimer: This post may contain humor, sarcasm, and/or flatulence.
Michael Mornard
Bringing the North Woods to South Dakota!
Ive searched the forum and heres what I "think" I know: I have one wire that goes from the motor to the frame of the Tender, so I think this is the left pickup and I should solder the black wire from my SDH164D Decoder to this wire. There is continuity from the Loco wheels to the Engine frame so this would be the right pickup and I should solder the red decoder wire to the frame. I put tape under the motor but I still get continuity between the motor and the frame so I need a plastic screw for my motor mount. Does it sound like im on the right track or am I going to burn out everything?lol. Mark