The way I tired mine was the following:
I went to Radioshack and bought a 2-position swtich. For me, the light was either going to be red or green - it was not going to be turned off. On the switch, there are three prongs. Hook the red LED wire to one of the outside switch leads, hook up the green LED wire to the other outside switch lead, and hook up the wire with no resistor on it to the middle switch lead.
In order to power them you have to hook up the +12V wire lead from a power source to the middle wire, and hook up the negative (also called the ground) to BOTH the outside switch leads. This will power the signal at all times, and will allow you to switch between red or green.
Here is the setup that I use to run my signals off of the Tortoise.
Rich
Alton Junction
Hi Randy
I'm using Atlas code 55 turnouts. After reading your advice I looked up Tam Valley and they offer the 9G servos with a DCC decoder ready to go for 20 bucks. Switch and all. I think this will be the way to go for the next phase. Like you I have to wait on the weather. The lower portion I started last fathers day and I hope to have the top deck in place by the time this years is here.
Thanks again for the help.
Ron
What sort of turnouts do you use? I have Atlas and the servo provides PENTY of tension even with an extra-long piece of wire (I have 2 layers of 2" foam, 1/4" of plywood, and cork roadbed it all has to work through, using .037 wire.). With a more 'traditional' 1/2" or 3/4" plywood base plus maybe cork on top, there's plenty of power even in the little 9G servos to move all-rail turnouts (no hinged points) such as those made via the Fastracks method. Sevos do NOT stall, they will overheat and burn out if used that way. They need to complete the movement to the position command, and then stay there. On a plywood base, teh servo can be glued on its side directly under the turnout - a friend of mine does it this way on his N scale layout, and thus the barely stick down underneath more than the Atlas ones. Unles you really skimped on your deck to deck clearance, they should be plenty small.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
The advice you provided for me is what I had hoped was the case. Sure enough it worked slick as could be. What I ended up doing is soldering the three connections to the tortise and making better connections to the test signal and power supply. Fired right up. And I should know better after a life time of dumb shortcuts with anything electrical.
I looked at your website and remember that you are fan of the servo motors for switches. I think these would be perfect for application on my upper deck. I don't have much depth and everything I have read about the Atlas under table is negative. I have one , not installed, and the acuator arm looks way to weak. Can the servo provide more tension?
Thank you Randy for your help.
If you have the isntructiosn is should eb fairly obvious. The lead with no resistor is the common for both LEDs, the lead with the reistor is the individual power for each LED. Depending on how they are wired, the common wire might be the - or it might eb the +. Getting it backwards won;t hurt anything, the LED just won't light up.
You need something to operate the signals - a switch, or contacts on a switch motor. This has nothing to do with powering frogs. If you are using Atlas switch machines you need to add the Snap Relay to provde contacts to switch between the red and green LED. If you have Tortoise motors, the contacts are already there.
Howdy
I have these n scale NJ International signals, red-green, that I cannot figure out how to wire. They have three leeds. One has no resistor. The other two have them and are marked red and green. The instructions with the signals are less than helpfull. I am using the tortise switch machines and have tried the wireing diagrams from Tonys Trains to no avail. I havent powered the frogs, Atlas code 55, as they show in one diagram. Is this what I'm missing? Please tell me no. Soldering to rails always brakes my heart as I watch the ties melt.
Many thanks to any replies. Ron