Hey people check this out. This is a token of my gratitude. I have my own informative how to do project article:
http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/forums/t/204534.aspx
I am capable of giving information not sucking it all up.
mfm37Both of these companies sell surface mount leds with wires attached and no resistors. Good luck making those PRR position signals. AlKem had them several years ago but Bernie hasn't re-run them .
Now available in HO from N.J. International.http://www.njinternational.com/
They offer both complete signals and pre-wired and lighted signal heads, per their ad in the March 2012 RMC.
Layout Design GalleryLayout Design Special Interest Group
Richmond Controls
Ngineering
Both of these companies sell surface mount leds with wires attached and no resistors. Good luck making those PRR position signals. AlKem had them several years ago but Bernie hasn't re-run them .
Martin Myers
What you CAN buy are signals with the LEDs and wires already installed, but you will quickly find this becomes expensive, especially compared to makign the signal heads yourself and installing the LEDs. Signallign is not cheap - and the biggest expensive if purchasing everything is goign to be the individual signal heads. But those are then fully wired and ready to connect to the signal controller. For DIY, it's never worth it to get LEDs with wires attached, who knows if they are the right length, or even the right sort of wire. If you are installing them in signals and expect to run all the wires for a PRR type signal through the mast, you'll have to wire them with fine magnet wire, heavier wire will never fit in the scale mast, at least not not enough for the LEDs needed for a 3 position indicatioon. But not EVERY LED needs 2 wires comign through, in a PRR signal the ones oppisite each other are wired together, and all 3 pairs have one common. So that's 4 total wires, plus a pair for the center LED (although check the wiring example for the SE8C, you night be able to common the center LED to the others as well, meaning a total of 4 wires. Per head - if it's a dual head signal then you need to squeeze 8 or 10 wires in there. Magent wire is the only hope. It's delicate, but once in place and wired to a secured terminal strip at the base, it won't be moving and should last a lifetime.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Back to the now modified original question.......
The vast majority of LED's are supplied without resistors. You just simply solder your wires to the device and away you go.
I must not be understanding what you are looking for, because this seems too obvious?
Are you looking for 3mm LED that have already had wires soldered to them? If so, save yourself some time and solder you own wires, this way you can have the wire the length you need it to be.
Simon Modelling CB&Q and Wabash See my slowly evolving layout on my picturetrail site http://www.picturetrail.com/simontrains and our videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCrispybake?feature=mhum
alloboard Yes it's true perhaps I've been too hasty and I need to slow down. Now let me make something clear, I'm not a lazy leech that sucks up information and moves on without a thank you like "davidmbedard" mentioned that was a big insult. If no one here want's to help me out anymore then so be it, I will eventually find what I'm looking for I always do. I'm sorry for intervening.
Yes it's true perhaps I've been too hasty and I need to slow down. Now let me make something clear, I'm not a lazy leech that sucks up information and moves on without a thank you like "davidmbedard" mentioned that was a big insult. If no one here want's to help me out anymore then so be it, I will eventually find what I'm looking for I always do. I'm sorry for intervening.
alloboard,
A word of advice on forum etiquette in regards to posting. You need to be careful about editing your original post hours or days later (after a number of responses) without acknowledging it in your original post. What happens is that it confuses new readers to the thread and can make those who have responded look stupid; as it appears that the edited portion was actually part of the original post.
Your last post (above) is verbatim to the last paragraph in your first post; which is obviously a response to David's post - after he posted it. (This isn't the first time that you've done this either.)
If you need to edit the original post to clarify something that you meant to say but left out inadvertently, it's best to use either the strikethough button to remove the inaccurate statement(s)...or include a bracketed Edit (e.g. [Edit: ...]) at the bottom of the post. In this case, it would have been best to just respond in a separate post (as you did) but leave the above statement off the original post altogether.
For what it's worth...
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Simon:
That's what I was trying to communicate. He needs to slow down and absorb the information before jumping ahead in a somewhat disjointed manner. We all had to start someplace but we also had to take the time to learn.
Joe
A tad harsh David, he did make a post this weekend offering sharing some information, and thanking everyone for their help. (I know you did not agree with the advice, but it was clearly offered in the right spirit) Indeed, many of his posts are asking rudimentary information that is contained in manuals or is easily available, and indeed, many of these threads are responded to and then never acknowledged. Many are repeated with a rephrase of the question. However, I don't think our buddy here is a native English speaker, which may explain some of this. My biggest worry for our friend is that on the same weekend he is asking for pre-wired LED's (He must have meant surface mount?) he is also asking about complex subjects such as block detection and transponding. Trying to tackle the most complex parts of DCC when still struggling with the basics seems to be an invitation for disaster.
Alloboard:
I have been following your postings and it seems that you need to slow down, take a deep breath and learn some basic techniques like soldering and how to use the reference materials that are readily available. Then think through what you want to do. Just take it a step at a time and start at the beginning rather than the end. Please don't be insulted; I'm just trying to help.
No one except Richmond Controls for surface mount LEDs.
Which vendor does anybody know well that makes pre wired LED's but with no resistors? There are certain types of LED's out there and you need the right one. They have the 3V ones that are not wired that need resistors soldered on to them for 12V operation. They have the pre wired 3V LEDs with resistors that can simply be hooked up to 12V operation. Now all I was asking for earlier was 3V LEDs that are pre wired without resistors. I am currently working with PRR signaling with 7 LEDs on a disc head. I need the right LEDs. I might be getting g allot of terminal strip mounting kits from Digitrax for their SE8C signal controller. I so I will need LEDs that don't come with resistors, if not then I will need LEDs with resistors and find a way of connecting them to the SE8C.