Going to DCC

[narrow gauge nuclear]

I'm in agreement with "selector".  You know you are going to do it, so just do it.

I have done a number of layouts in my 50 or so years as a model rail.  A lot of yard switching usually meant a lot of block control switching although with only two engines, one at either end, the block switiching might be minimal.  Imagine, never having to throw a block switch ever again!  Engines working on the same stretch of un-gapped track, going in opposite directions.  All or most of your block switiches will be retired and the rat's nest of block wiring disappear.  You will only need to run a simple pair of 12-14 gauge buss wires.

Yes it will mean a little work and only moderate expense to change over.  Plus it will give you a good excuse to go engine shopping again if you wish to not install DCC controllers in all of your older engines.

Good luck

Richard

[richg1998]

One or two DCC reverser's don't work well with the Power Cab. Our club has a couple MRC reverser's that work well with the NCE 5 amp Power Pro but not the Power Cab. I saw this issue discussed about a year ago in another forum.

I disconnected the Power Pro and connected my Power Cab to prove a point. Your mileage may vary.

Rich

[Guy Papillon]

Thank you to everyone.  I crossed the river and just ordered a NCE Power Cab. Stay tuned. There will certainly be much more questions.

 

[Texas Zepher]

Guy Papillon

but I am still intimidated by all I read about DCC

Don't be.  95% of the intimidating stuff about DCC actually ends up being a concern for only about 5% of the MR population.  DCC is easier in almost every way than DC block/cab wiring. 

I have to consider the cost of the new system.

While I would never recommend people spend money they don't need to I have to share my personal story.   I am a DC cab control wiring expert.  I have been wiring multi-cab DC systems since I was in 5th grade. I was designing my own transistor throttles in Jr. High, BUT when I saw and understood the implications of command control I switched in an instant.  The system was CTC-16, this was back when a base system cost over $1000 not adjusting for inflation, decoders were $40 each, and I was just starting my first job so I did not have a lot of money.    Now 5 systems later I have never regretted spending that money on command control.   Running the locomotives instead of the track just makes model railroading what it is supposed to be.

 

  My layout is a switching layout measuring 50 feet from one end of the staging to the end of the other staging with one reversing loop at one end.  I will not run more than two locomotives at a time. Will the NCE PowerCab de enough with it's 2 amp. considering the length of the main line? Will I need boosters?

I read that a loco standing on the track will draw current even if it is not used.  Will I need more than 2 amp. If I run 2 locks with a few standing in the staging yards?

[/quote]

[MisterBeasley]

The "should I convert?" question comes up frequently.  If you run more than one engine, then DCC will have immediate value, particularly on smaller layouts where blocking is sometimes not very practical.  Also, if you've decided you like sound locomotives, then DCC will be the way to go.

There are really only a couple of drawbacks.  First, there is cost, and second is the time it takes to convert your DC engines to DCC.  In the simplest case, an experienced modeler can take an engine off the track and have it back on the layout, fully programmed, in under an hour.  More complex installations, requiring soldering, bulb replacement and sound installation can take much longer.

But, don't be afraid of the technology.  In its most basic form, DCC is easier to deal with than DC.  You can make a whole hobby just out of DCC, if you wish, but you don't have to.

[rrinker]

 Yes, standing locos will draw power, but for non-sound ones, it's a miniscule amount. Sound locos, unless standing on a ready track, you'd probably want to shut down, which greatly reduces their current consumption. Even sitting with idling sounds, they don;t really draw that much power.

                   --Randy

[selector]

Guy, your question here suggests to me you know it is time, you know why you want to convert, and you have a fairly solid list of improvements of some sort conversion would afford you.  In other words, you have done your homework, at least the initial important conceptualization and rationalization, but now you are hedging your bets by soliciting contrary views or affirmation.

To me, your way ahead has two primary considerations: cost and not ending up regretting your decision when you find that it is more involved than you had feared or wondered.  Said another way, you would hate to have to repair a working layout for a failed experiment involving a concept that has strong appeal for you.   You WANT this to work.

If the cost is moot, because after all you are seriously leaning to the DCC side of the fence, and I expect you will find a way to justify the expense and minor bit of work/fiddling/learning/conversion of locos, etc, , then the unknowns are still grinding you down.  I would like to assure you that if your layout currently works well electrically, it will work the very same with DCC, except that it isn't that simple.  You have locomotives to consider, and as Simon warns, you may have to investigate and remedy a problem with the current power reversal.  I currently use a six-year old PSX-AR that essentially works the same as your analog version...just cut and paste...so-to-speak.  Depending on your setup, they include instructions about how to set up the trip sensitivity limits so that it actually does what you need it to do.

Yup, it will cost, you will have to return here somewhat puzzled, maybe frustrated, and ask some questions, but....don't we all? 

My last message is that you will be able to eliminate your block control setup over time and just wire feeders into the bus.  You will find that you only have to watch the two or three engines that are of interest and you can control them easily...them, not the electrical distribution system.  You'll still have to line your routes, you'll still get the odd oops, and so on.  But the individual locomotives will quickly come to absorb you because they become your sole focus once you get it all up and humming.

Crandell

[tstage]

Guy,

The answer isn't always "yes" as far as converting over to DCC.  I depends on your layout and how you plan on using it.

From what you have indicated though, DCC could benefit you...IF you plan on operating more than one locomotive at a time AND they will be operating in close proximately to one another or in the same power district.  If you think you'll only be operating one switcher the majority of the time, you can go either DCC or stick with DC.

The Power Cab should work just fine in your situation.  In fact, the thumbwheel would come in quite handy when operating your Power Cab in "yard mode".  Instead of using the DIRECTION button to change directions (which gets kinda annoying when doing a lot of switching), your thumbwheel will automatically reverse directions when you bring the speed down past zero, if going forward, and above zero, if going in reverse.  Pretty neat feature.  And you can also set this up with other NCE throttles, too.

As far as power consumption of an idle locomotive, how many locomotives are you talking about?  Are they older locomotives (i.e. before 2000)?  Will they have sound?  Your answer will determine if you need more than 2A or not.

Another neat feature worth mentioning with the Power Cab is that it has a built-in amp meter.  You can see how much draw your layout is pulling at any given time.  You have to go into your Power Cab settings in order for it to be displayed.  It replaces the fast clock up in the right-hand corner of your LCD.  Another nice feature.  If should also be mentioned that if the Power Cab is used with the Smart Booster (SB3a) or the PH-Pro system, you can not access the built-in amp meter.

Hope that helps, Guy...

Tom

[Edit: Guy, Simon's points about the Power Cab needing to be plugged in and the limited (7') walk-around capability are valid ones.  These could be rectified by purchasing either the 5-amp Smart Booster (SB3a) or purchasing an additional throttle and UTP panel(s).  Without the SB3a, the Power Cab would need to stay plugged in but you could move around your layout with a CAB-04 or CAB-06 throttle.  With the SB3a, you would be free to unplug and plug your Power Cab in order to follow your locomotives along your layout more easily.]

[simon1966]

Length of track really does not have much to do with it.   How many locos you want to run simultaneously does.  At 2 locos at a time the Power Cab would be more than adequate.  It is very very unlikely that you would need a booster.

Considerations though.  The Power cab has a 7' cable.  It has to remain plugged in, otherwise the layout shuts down.  You have a 50' long layout and the PowerCab is going to give you 14' of walking range.  Is that going to be enough for you to reach switches etc.? 

Reverse Loop.  Not all reverse loop solutions work with the PowerCab.  You would have to make sure you choose one that works with it.  There are several choices, so it is not a biggie, but make sure you take it into account.

[Guy Papillon]

I have to replace an important piece of equipment on my DC layout and I wonder, once more, if I should go DCC.  I know the answer is yes but I am still intimidated by all I read about DCC and I have to consider the cost of the new system.  My layout is a switching layout measuring 50 feet from one end of the staging to the end of the other staging with one reversing loop at one end.  I will not run more than two locomotives at a time. Will the NCE PowerCab de enough with it's 2 amp. considering the length of the main line? Will I need boosters?

I read that a loco standing on the track will draw current even if it is not used.  Will I need more than 2 amp. If I run 2 locks with a few standing in the staging yards?