Yep, time to learn soldering. And there are a number of sites - written AND with video or diagrams - that will show you how to do it properly.
Simon is correct. A good soldering job can be done in less time than it took for you to type out your post. And it's VERY reliable. You'll eventually want to pick up heat shrink tubing and Kapton tape, if you plan to continue to do your own decoder installations.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Install the LED properly, get it working and move on. It would have taken less time to solder the joints than to type the question. If you are simply twisting wires together then this may explain many of your problems. Nothing beats good technique, solder, heat shrink tube,or other good insulation technique.
Simon Modelling CB&Q and Wabash See my slowly evolving layout on my picturetrail site http://www.picturetrail.com/simontrains and our videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCrispybake?feature=mhum
I installed a Digitrax SDH164D in a Lifelike Proto 1000 RDC-1. I connected a 3mm sunny white LED with a 1K 1/4 ohm resistor on the anode (positive) side of the LED. I connected the blue wire to the anode and white wire to the cathode by twisting the stripped harness wire to the leads. I noticed that the LED does not go off completely when I turn it off with the F0 function on my Digitrax DT402D throttle. It goes off completely only when I hold it tight on the cathode side where the white wire is connected to the cathode. Perhaps I should solder it. Does anyone know why the LED does not go off completely?