MisterBeasley There is something to be said for restoring engines that mean a lot to you. It's like restoring old cars, or old airplanes. It's not necessarily practical, but rather a tribute to the human spirit. That's why I restored my old rubber-band-drive Athearn F7 and GP9 as dummy engines with sound but no motor. I could never have gotten them up to the performance I got from the P2K GP9s I picked up on closeout for $40, but by combining them in consists with newer engines, they can live again.
There is something to be said for restoring engines that mean a lot to you. It's like restoring old cars, or old airplanes. It's not necessarily practical, but rather a tribute to the human spirit.
That's why I restored my old rubber-band-drive Athearn F7 and GP9 as dummy engines with sound but no motor. I could never have gotten them up to the performance I got from the P2K GP9s I picked up on closeout for $40, but by combining them in consists with newer engines, they can live again.
My diesels above displaced P2K GP7 units to standby once they got decodered. These old Athearns are quieter, slower and smoother than the P2Ks. Reworking old mechanisms is always a crapshoot, but these two are fully 2012 compliant as far ar running goes.
Rob Spangler
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Good info Rob, thanks. I don't think that's too much of an investment (although also gotta add a decoder to that!). Something to consider. I understand MrBeasley's post, but these two locos just mean alot to me and I really would like to keep them going. My F7 is actually an Amtrak phase 1 and I have a B unit with it and the whole set of cars as well. Would look great to run again, although since I model the 1960s it would just be for my own fun and not in an actual operating session. To your other point about the GP9, there is a GP7 still in excursion service here in Cincinnati on the Lebanon Railway, so I have a decent prototype to compare with it. Thanks again!
rrlcommish Admittedly, it is probably sentimental that I would want to keep these locos going, although it seems silly to retire a perfectly good loco especially if it's running well. Yeah, they are a bit noisy, but I'm not going to be a stickler about that. Even if it was just for occasional duty it might be worth it as long as the $$ investment isn't too high.
Admittedly, it is probably sentimental that I would want to keep these locos going, although it seems silly to retire a perfectly good loco especially if it's running well. Yeah, they are a bit noisy, but I'm not going to be a stickler about that. Even if it was just for occasional duty it might be worth it as long as the $$ investment isn't too high.
Assuming you're OK with $60.95 for the repower kit, plus $12.95 for NWSL wheelsets if the old ones don't stay clean, go ahead.
I have a power set consisting of a 1970s vintage Athearn GP7 (actually what the loco represents, althought Athearn labeled it a GP9), and a somewhat newer F7, that I keep around since they represent some of my first detailing and painting projects. They have can motors, NWSL wheels, and fine tuning to all of the remaining drive components. They are also smooth and quiet runners, emitting no more noise than any modern drive, so sound would work fine. At a layout tour, one visitor's wife commented on just how quiet the GP7 was, and her husband told her it was because I only use high quality drives - he was surprised when I told him it was a 30+ year old Athearn. These are in regular, every op session service.
The F7 is the special "Super Weight" or whatever they called it version, with the extra weight on top. Not all Athearn F7s are like that. It completly fits around the motor though, it's not particularly molded to shape.
CHeck the current draw, if it's within the decoder limits when holding the flywheel, then it should be fine as-is. There are several sites with some basic Athearn motor tuneup help that will mke it run better witht he stock motor. The extra weight surrounding the motor really makes it run quieter, as well as giving it enough drawbar pull to tear the house down. I had one I was reworkign to fit a Stewart F shell (had to grind away part of the top wright to clear protrusions ont he inside of the Stewart shell), but I no longer have it.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Admittedly, it is probably sentimental that I would want to keep these locos going, although it seems silly to retire a perfectly good loco especially if it's running well. Yeah, they are a bit noisy, but I'm not going to be a stickler about that. Even if it was just for occasional duty it might be worth it as long as the $$ investment isn't too high. Good point, though, about sound...probably not worth it. Thanks for the advice guys.
rrlcommish The GP9 is pretty old, I think we got it in the late 1970s. Anyone know which motor is best for this loco? I think it's the 70321, but I am not sure.
The GP9 is pretty old, I think we got it in the late 1970s. Anyone know which motor is best for this loco? I think it's the 70321, but I am not sure.
Yes, that's the one. That's why the A-Line site describes it as fitting all Athearn units except a certain few.
Second, the F7 seems to have the same motor at the GP9 but also has a large lead weight inside. A-Line's website calls this a "cradle weight", but again...there is no application listed for the F7 motor, although they DO list an app for just the weight (12404).
The same motor should fit the F7. Unless something is seriously different from the Athearn F7s I've had, the Athearn weight is not equivalent to the A-Line "cradle weight," which is a custom part intended to fill the hollow space inside the fuel tank where the bottom of the stock Athearn motor rests.
For the record, the GP9's motor is pretty spent but the F7 still runs like a champ. Should I still replace the F7's motor anyway?
From my experience, stock Athearn motors like the old examples you have don't run especially well on DCC compared to a can motor. If your F7 runs great with the stock motor, it should run even better with a can. One additional problem with older Athearn models is the cast metal wheels, which tend to get dirty fairly fast. Replacement nickel silver wheels are available from Northwest Short Line which will improve power pickup. Given the cost of the A-Line motor kits and NWSL wheels however, I question whether it's worth converting such old Athearn locos unless you have a sentimental attachment to them.
I always have to ask this. Why?
Very old engines that don't run well have a host of problems. Besides the motor, the gears are noisy and inefficient, and the wheels are probably old and pitted, and not made of modern materials so they need more frequent cleaning and don't provide good electrical transmission. Some of the trucks are designed for those wheels, so you may have to replace the trucks, too, to get the axles to fit.
I replaced an old F7 chassis with a complete new chassis from Athearn. It cost me $45, and it's a perfect fit. For my old GP9, I removed the motor, bought some after-market handrails, replaced the couplers with Kadees and installed a cheap SoundBug sound-only decoder. It now runs as a dummy in a consist, still in service 50 years after I bought it.
If the F7 still runs well, I see no reason to mess with it. Put in a decoder and see how it does. Engines of this age are probably so noisy that a sound decoder would be a poor investment, but if you happen to have a quiet one, go ahead. Older motors draw a lot more current than new ones. If you are worried about total current draw on your DCC system, or if you want a "green" railroad, you might consider replacing the motor.
My understanding is that it is a good idea to replace the motors with A-Line can motors to reduce current draw and for better performance in DCC when converting. I have a few questions. One, the GP9 is not listed on A-Line's website. The GP9 is pretty old, I think we got it in the late 1970s. Anyone know which motor is best for this loco? I think it's the 70321, but I am not sure. Second, the F7 seems to have the same motor at the GP9 but also has a large lead weight inside. A-Line's website calls this a "cradle weight", but again...there is no application listed for the F7 motor, although they DO list an app for just the weight (12404). And again, this loco is circa late 1970s. Can anyone assist with advice? For the record, the GP9's motor is pretty spent but the F7 still runs like a champ. Should I still replace the F7's motor anyway?
Thanks!