I am using two methods to mount LEDs into this Athearn F7.
For the headlight I am using two pieces of metal tubing that slide together. The outer piece is thin wall aluminium with an O.D. of .1875" ( 3/16ths) and an I.D. of .157". The inner piece is copper with an O.D. of .150" and a I.D. of .115". The tubing came in a bulk package of assorted sizes and metals that I bought at a hobby show. It cost about $10.00 for about a blue box full of the stuff. Walthers lists a huge assortment of K & S tubing if you need to buy it. The sizes I have given are the best I could do with a micrometer.
Here is how the tubing works: The outer tube fits nicely into the headlight hole in the F7. (I can't remember if I had to use a drill bit to slightly open the hole). The inner tube fits nicely over the lense of a 3mm warm white LED. I epoxied a 3/4" length of the outer tube into the headlight opening. I slid a <1/8" length of the inner tube over the LED. If the fit is loose gently squeeze the copper tube to make it slightly out of round so it stays on the LED. The LED will then slip into the outer tube with minimal pressure. Note in the pictures that the outer tube does not go all the way to the front of the headlight opening. Leave it far enough back that the headlight lense can be pressed into place in front of it.
For the number board lights I drilled into the back of the Athearn lenses and epoxied LEDs into the holes. That was easier said than done - believe me! The number boards should stay in place with a tiny bit of clear silicone but be easily removable.
I haven't figured out the marker lamps above the number boards quite yet but it will likely be some sort of fibre optics running off of the number boards. And yes - the shell has a long way to go! Like another current post - started with a sow's ear. I screwed the shell up with brake fluid. It cracked into several pieces.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
htgguy I find a piece of heat shrink tubing that is a good fit for the LED. Then I glue the heat shrink into the shell and let it set up. Insert the LED and reassemble.I do NOT heat shrink the tubing. I started doing this when looking for a way to isolate the light output, eliminate the "campfire in the cab" effect. So far, so good. Jim
I find a piece of heat shrink tubing that is a good fit for the LED. Then I glue the heat shrink into the shell and let it set up. Insert the LED and reassemble.I do NOT heat shrink the tubing.
I started doing this when looking for a way to isolate the light output, eliminate the "campfire in the cab" effect. So far, so good.
Jim
I do the same also. The results are absolutely great.
Will
Visit look4trains.com
LION votes for silicone caulk. It is clear. It can be applied with a tooth pick (or a nice glob right out of the tube), insert the LED, and wipe off the excess. It is easy to break the LED free should that be needed, and easy to clean up the loco and the LED again, should that be needed.
For other applications: LION pressure fits LEDs to signal masts, and used a dab of silicone from the back on the control panel.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
Goop also works well, but requires at least one hour to set.
Some white glue will work well, and if needed you would be able to break it out without damaging the loco or LED. Or a little dab of latex caulk.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
The fumes from CA will etch plastic. Should not be a problem if used in small amounts and good air flow until it dries.
I apply CA with a toothpick either right on the LED or on the mounting surface.
How the heck is a practical way of anchoring LED headlights onto a locomotive? I am looking for the most practical way as there are many ways that it can be done which overwhelms me.