rrinker Yeah and I think I missed my change at getting cheap sound chassis for my Geeps, even Trainworld doesn't have any sound ones anymore --Randy
Yeah and I think I missed my change at getting cheap sound chassis for my Geeps, even Trainworld doesn't have any sound ones anymore
--Randy
Check the train shows. It takes some searching, but you can find them. In addition to the pair if F3A's, I've done three GP's and have one more GP I'd like to do. I'm also watching for cheap SW9/1200's with sound, because I have a couple of those I'd like to do as well. (Most of my Proto's are Canadian Hobbycraft releases, in paint schemes not likely to be re-released by Walthers...)
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker The easiest thing to do with these locos is take the whole silly stock board out and ... <snip conversion details>
<snip conversion details>
I had a pair of older, non-DCC-ready P1K F3A's, and not only did I take the stock board out, I took the whole chassis out of both of them.
Then I dropped those P1K shells onto a couple of P2K chassis with factory sound that I picked up on clearance and Voilà! Virtually instant, one-minute DCC and sound conversion!
After putting the two "wrong" P2K shells on the old P1K chassis and selling them as-is for parts, my end cost per unit was about the same as the price of a good sound decoder and speaker.
What decoder did you use? If it's one that has built-in resistors for LEDs or 1.5v bulbs, then it won't work simply connecting it to the points on the circuit board with the jumpers cut.
The easiest thing to do with these locos is take the whole silly stock board out and connect the red and black of the decoder to the track pickups, the orange and grey tot he motor, and blue and white to the headlight - but verify the voltage requirements of the bulb, or it will blow and posibly damage the decoder. Or even better, replace the bulb with a golden-white LED and a 1K resistor.
I also have a proto 1000 F3. Mine was DCC ready, all I had to do was drop a decoder in. I wonder what the difference is? I have had mine for about 3 years I think.
Phil, CEO, Eastern Sierra Pacific Railroad. We know where you are going, before you do!
I have recently converted an F3 P1K to DCC. The engine runs great. I cannot get the headlight to work. The only way I can get light is by connecting to both track input tabs. If I try to light the headlight using the F1 and F2 tabs as instructed in the paperwork, nothing happens.
Anyone familiar with this? For now I will just attach the bulb to the F1 and W1 tabs (two outside tabs), just to have light.
This light board has instructions for DCC installation by giving you cut points to isolate. Done. I use Decoder Pro for programming. That went off without a hitch.
Appreciate any input.
rs3189