Add DCC to the Bachmann Speeder

[reddogsix]

Carl,

Fantastic job!!

I am using one of these for my Sn42 CN Newfoundland layout.

Going to see if my buddy can install DCC in mine.

Thanks

Andrew

[Train Modeler]

GREAT JOB.   And thanks for posting.

I have one of these and have had fleeting thoughts of putting a decoder in up until I considered it next to impossible.

Richard

[AntonioFP45]

illinimoon

I AM THE OWNER OF THE SPEEDER, AND TOLD CARL NEXT IS SOUND.

Hi

Welcome to the Forum!

Re: Sound.    Seems like the space is rather tight, but  which decoder and sound scheme would you use?  Seems like a speeder like this would use a small gasoline or diesel engine.

[illinimoon]

I AM THE OWNER OF THE SPEEDER, AND TOLD CARL NEXT IS SOUND.

[rrinker]

 Pretty much any railroad would probably have somethign similar. It's a bit out of proportion, a concession to leave room to motorize it. If you look at prototype pictures, the center cover over the motor is not nearly that tall, and usually does not extend the entire length of the speeder. And also not nearly that wide. There are static models that are more accurate, which are great for posing static scenes, but if you want to add an operating quirk that there is a maintainence gang on a certain track then you need a running one.

                --Randy

[AntonioFP45]

Does anyone know which prototype railroads owned speeders like this one, or units that were similar?  This would be a very neat unit to have in MOW service on a layout.  Would definitely keep things interesting during operation sessions.

[AntonioFP45]

cmarchan

.................In any case, here is a video of the Speeder on our club layout:

http://youtu.be/gyHkzZp4oJU

Amazing what a smooth runner it is!  DCC technology has made this hobby so much more enjoyable and this is a good demonstration of its benefits.  Great job Carl and thank you for posting the steps with the detailed photos. 

[Owendubya]

how about a dcc velociped? might have to use a z scale decoder.

[cmarchan]

Boy, a Gandy Dancer, Hmmmm

In any case, here is a video of the Speeder on our club layout:

http://youtu.be/gyHkzZp4oJU

[simon1966]

Carl very nice job on this..........How about DCC in the Bachmann Gandy Dancer next

[cmarchan]

Thanks Randy for the comments; I've submitted the idea to TCS. Hopefully they'll take it.

Their submission rules have changed; you have to request permission for a project before you submit it. Also they no longer send you the decoder of your choice, it will be the same decoder as the one used in your project. In any case I like their installation section of their site. It is a great reference for those requiring assistance with decoder installations; its the most comprehensive site I've come across.

[rrinker]

 Nice work. You should send that to TCS if you haven't already. They don't have that one in their install pictures, and you have very nice and clear pictures with detailed instrutions. They pay off with a free decoder if they use your submission.

                  --Randy

 

[cmarchan]

Recently I was approached to install a DCC decoder in a Bachmann HO scale speeder. The challenge was intriguing; how to find room for the decoder without placing it on the "control deck", which is the easy way. Could the headlamp be illuminated?

After carefully examining the entire assembly and making a few measurements, I decided the best approach was to slightly modify the control deck by raising it 5.5 scale inches and carving out bits of plastic from the deck to accomodate a TCS Z2 decoder.

Here we go!

STEP ONE - Remove the bottom cover

 Unscrew the five screws and remove the bottom cover. Mark the bottom of the motor with a dot from a magic marker, preferably black as lower terminal is the negative terminal.

STEP TWO - Remove plastic material from top cover

STEP THREE - Add styrene sheet to control deck top

Removing the plastic material may "blemish" the top side of the cover; to resolve this issue, carefully sand the top side until its flat, then "laminate" it with a sheet of .010 styrene. I made mine from bits of styrene then used Bondo Glazing Putty to fill the seams. Next, paint the entire assembly with SCL hopper yellow. Dont worry if the yellow differs from the main assembly; the original deck color did not match either.

STEP FOUR - Preparing weight halves

 Flatten the metal contacts so they will not touch the motor commutator; this isolates the motor from the frame.Attach the decoder input wires to the contacts as marked.

STEP FIVE - Attaching decoder power input wires

After soldering the wires to the contacts, attach strips of Kapton tape to the areas indicated by the red boxes. Be careful not overlap the tape onto worm gear wells.

STEP SIX - Wiring motor and decoder

STEP SEVEN - Preparing body and top cover; attaching decoder to motor

 

Optional - to illuminate the false headlamp, carefully remove the lens by saturating the lens and housing with Walthers Solvaset to loosen the lens glue, then remove by breaking the seam with a Xacto #12 blade (small curved). Drill the housing dead center with a number 61 drill bit. Remove enough plastic from the housing by drilling to accomodate a nano SMD LED (Surface Mount LED), available from Ngineering ( http://www.ngineering.com ). Use a 1/4 watt SMD 1,500 ohm resistor in series with the WHITE function wire. Coat the resistor with epoxy or similar adhesive to electrically insulate it.

STEP EIGHT - Dressing the wires

Reassembly - this is probably the trickiest part of the process. Carefully slide the body over the main assembly while keeping TOP control cover tucked inside its walls; do not attach the cover to the frame until the body is attached and the wires from the headlamp are carefully tucked underneath the cover. Take care to keep the wires away from the four cover mounting holes (refer to the photo for positioning).

STEP TEN - Finished Product

 

Tip: break in unit thoroughly before installing any electronics. This gives the motor brushes a chance to "seat" and will polish the wheel contact surfaces for better operation.

If you have one of these or were thinking of getting one, but thought DCC was not possible for this unit, feel free to use any of the photos and information here and go for it!

Summary of parts:

TCS Z2 decoder
Plastruct styrene sheets and strips - .010 in, .060 in (or .020 and .040 strips)
Ngineering LED, Part number N1038-2
Ngineering Magnet Wire, Part Number N5038
5 minute Epoxy
3M 415 double sided tape (not the foam kind)
3M 191CL Repair tape - clear
SMD 1/4 watt or 1/8 watt resistor, 1.5 K ohm