I guess you proved your point, if that is the objective. That sort of rigging would not be of interest to me in the least, starting with "I don't have any F or E units". But in the photos I see the wires passing through, and that is a put off for me personally.
But if your happy, then we are all happy.
Bob
Unless you are planning to do this with some older equipment (open frame motors) a 1 amp decoder should be more than adequate to handle todays high efficient motors - most draw about 1/4 amp under load (not stall current). Unless to really abuse your equipment - over weighting / over pulling / over racing - I see no potential problems.
This is all based on the actual theory of logic, however, considering how inexpensive decoders are today, I wouldn't be bothered with all the excessive wiring. HOWEVER - in the case of the dual motored T-1, it's the perfect solution.
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
topcopdoc wrote:Am I correct that both motors are running in parallel rather than series with the decoder hooked to one motor?
Am I correct that both motors are running in parallel rather than series with the decoder hooked to one motor?
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Jeffrey,
I think you answered a question I have had for a long time. I have a Bowser T1 which has two motors in it. No one could tell me if I should use one decoder or two.
Doc
Why one decoder?
I can understand the all wheel pickup. I used to run wires between DC engines to gain the same advantage. Install a decoder in each unit, use the linked pick ups to power each decoder. Best of both worlds and dissimilar units could still be speed matched.
Martin Myers
Shrink tubing works better than tape where wires are spliced.
Totally covering the decoder with electrical tape to hold it in place is begging for it to overheat. It needs air flow for cooling.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
As long as the maximum current draw of BOTH motors together does not exceed the amp rating of the decoder, there should be no problem. Todays high efficiency motors draw very little current and most decoders have a 1amp max rating, so it "should" work fine.
However, as another poster offered - I considered the same thing myself until I realized I would have to run two wires from the non-decodered engine (wheel pick up), then two wires back from the decodered engine (motor connection) and then two more wires for the headlight of the non-decodered unit !!! Making a six wire connection between the two units did not appeal at all to me, especially considering I could easily drop another $15 decoder in the second unit and be done with it !
Just because it's feasable, doesn't necessarily make it the best option.
Jeff:
I guess my answer to "can I make this work?" is:
Sure. But why would you want to?
Not intended as a criticism. It's your minature world, do it however you like. I was just giving you an opinion.
It's a lot easier and only slightly more expensive to use 2 decoders set to the same address.
That also makes it a lot simpler if you ever decide to separate the two engines.
I use one decoder in 4 AB sets. You put the decoder in one unit. Solder the wires to another set. Run the longer ones throught the shells, I use the door windows.
Cheaper and they run nicely.
Sincerely, Mark
I use two brass draw bars separated by a similarly shaped piece of styrene for one pair of the "wire" connections between the locomotives. Watch out for hot frames though! Hot frames might require a second styrene insulator and plastic screws for the drawbars. For the other pair, I use real wires that have the mini-connection plugs on them. More often though I only connect the power and let each loco have its own decoder.
These connectors (used for track power in this case) can be seen at either end of the unit in the photo below. The female plug is near where the front coupler should be. One problem with this is the male/female of the plugs, the units always have to go into a consist the same way. I've yet to find a plug with one male and one female plug on it (like sectional track), so they could be put in the consist in either direction.