Hey everyone, its been a while since I last post anything here, so here I'am, here's my question, I'm installing a liftout bridge on my layout and I need to have a good buss wire connection on each end of the bridge, as well as underneath the bridge, I heard of copper strips, now, I'm just curoius could I use aluminum foil as a connector from bridge to the buss wires under the layout??? Thanks and looking forward to getting your answers, Trainsrme1
Aluminum is a conductor of electricity, but aluminum foil seems too fragile for your intended purpose. A copper strip would be better.
On my last layout, I use brass plates embedded in the edges of the framework on both sides of the bridge. There was no need to run bus wires on the underside of the bridge.
Rich
Alton Junction
Aluminum is a very active metal that oxidizes very quickly. If you make a small scratch on an aluminum storm door it will be gone in a day. Oxides are insulators. It might be best to try some kind of contact with lengths of nickel silver rail like two pieces at right angles so one rests on the other
I have a liftoff bridge on my layout. It is not frequently removed and I usually just duck under unless I'm doing a lot of work beyond it. I have automobile plugs and jacks at each end. It take a few seconds to disconnect and reconnect them, but it's reliable.
But, like I said, I don't actually lift it off often.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Mr. B, I envy your dexterity. At 72 this would severely hamper my interest in my railroad. I still get down underneath for repairs, projects, etc., but for day in-day out access I would definitely need some sort of lift . Good for you!
Hey Mr B, Unfortunely, I have to take my out it's in front door of my trainroom,
On my lift out, I have brackets for hanging it right next to where I remove it. With such a short distance to travel, I simply wired it to the layout with enough wire to move it back and forth. It does not have to transfer power to the other side of the opening, so it works for me.
Mike
Sir,
How far does the lift-out section need to travel to its 'open' positions?
Is it hinged?
If the answers are 'less than 18"' or 'yes' I suggest a hard wired flexible harness on either side. Flexible conductors of sufficient capacity are easily sourced.
I have a draw-out section on my layout and found the 'contact' methods of connection to be unreliable given minor shrinking and movement of the benchwork. After switching to Molex connectors to connect and disconnect the drawout all dropout issues have disappeared.
D
da29. the artist formerly known as da1.
I use small L-brackets, cabinet style, on each corner of the abutment...on which the lift-out rests. Then, on the bottom of the liftout, I simple drive in a small wood screw at each corner. The screws are driven up into the upright bridge, meaning when the bridge is at rest in place, the screws sit on the L-brackets. From there, wiring is simple, including bared wire wrapped around the shanks of the screws and routed up to the rails. If the alignment isn't great vertically, lift out the bridge, back out or drive further any one screw or pair of them, and then test for alignment again. This worked very well for me a layout ago.
There's lift out designs and then there are lift & door designs on a piano hinge. The later two you don't have to worry about disconnecting.
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!