Hey everyone wanted to make a contribution that I'm not sure has been mentioned anywhere. I have been trying to install a dcc decoder into my PFM ATSF 4-8-4 since July. The installation was pretty quick took about half an hour. However, there has been one problem that took me until today to solve (albeit I took a break from modeling for a few months). Anyways, the problem I had was the engine would turn on and off a few times per second as if it wasn't getting consistent power. During idle it would be fine. It was completely unrelated to track I noticed. Although to be fair it should be since I only have a 6x8 and am able to keep the rails spotless. Basically, when the engine would move it would turn off and then back on again right as it turned off. Turns out the pin that attaches to the drawbar was partially oxidized which explains the operation issues. Wired a lead to the lead truck and to the drawbar and my issues are now in the past. I'm assuming the on/off situation was a function of inertia. The oxidized part of the pin would rest on the hole in the draw bar as the train began to move, as power was cut the tender would lurch forward placing the non-oxidized portion onto the front of the whole starting the cycle again.
Glad you found a solution. I replaced most of the draw bars on mine with plastic ones. I have a few spares in my parts box. I made a few with styrene. Wires are way more reliable, as you now know.
Simon
which draw bars do you use? two of mine have fallen apart looking for replacement
I have used old Mantua drawbars and some made by Precision Scale. You can easily make your own with styrene sheets.
BradenD,I've been installing decoders into old brass steamers since 1999. While I can't say I've never witnessed a drawbar electrical issue, I have been able to solve it usually by fixing the spring wire on the drawbar (either bending it so it's a more firm connection or re-soldering it). As for oxidation, I would put a tiny bit of Conducta-lube or 2-26 on the pin if it's a problem; it would help prevent oxidation and increase continuity. There should be no slack in the pin; the spring wire on the drawbar should stop that from happening. If your engine is making & breaking contact, there's something wrong with the spring wire.Otherwise, if the decoder's in the tender, just use a 6-pin plug instead of a 5-pin (Rail A, Rail B, Motor+, Motor-, F0F Headlight, and Function Ground) so you can by-pass the drawbar. If the decoder is in the boiler, than you need a 3-pin plug (Rail B, F0R Backup Light, and Function Ground).FYI: Here's a tip I got from a fellow club member. Go to an R/C hobby shop and by some small fuel line silicone tubing. Cut a 1/8" slice off and take the resulting "donut" of tubing and, after connecting your drawbar to the tender, stick it on the bottom of the tender pin. This will keep your drawbar attached under almost any circumstance but it's easily removable. And since it's clear, it's almost impossible to see under normal running conditions. Try it. Everyone I've given samples to has loved the idea because we've all had that time when we get the boiler on the rails, then go to get the tender on...but then the pin comes out of the drawbar and you have to start all over again.snjroy,Why would anyone replace a brass drawbar with a plastic one? The brass isn't going to fall apart or snap like plastic will.
Paul3 snjroy,Why would anyone replace a brass drawbar with a plastic one? The brass isn't going to fall apart or snap like plastic will.
snjroy,Why would anyone replace a brass drawbar with a plastic one? The brass isn't going to fall apart or snap like plastic will.
snjroy,Yeah, I guess so. You must have pretty sharp curves as I've never run into that problem. But then, my own layout's smallest radius was 28" and my club has a minimum of 40" on all mainline curves, so I'm hardly one to talk.If you don't mind, what's grounding on your brass drawbars? Is it detail parts or the chassis somehow? Some of my older brass has no detail in this area, and even some of my newer brass only has a couple pipes nearby.
Paul3 snjroy,Yeah, I guess so. You must have pretty sharp curves as I've never run into that problem. But then, my own layout's smallest radius was 28" and my club has a minimum of 40" on all mainline curves, so I'm hardly one to talk.If you don't mind, what's grounding on your brass drawbars? Is it detail parts or the chassis somehow? Some of my older brass has no detail in this area, and even some of my newer brass only has a couple pipes nearby.
In others, I've had situations where the plastic insulators isolating the drawbars were defective. In others, the springs would be too loose or too strong. Some original drawbars would cause weird twists in the curves, causing derailments. In some cases, the drawbar was too short, creating shorts in the curves (creating a contact between a loco component and the tender). Yes, pipes, sideframes and trucks can cause problems. In some cases, I was able to "dremel" some parts to remove the offending rubs.
I should say that I have 22" curves on my layout, and this is a challenge for the larger brass engines. With these and other adjustments, I can run 6, 8 and even 10-driver brass locos on my layout without shorts or derailments. Including old brass from the '60s. I should also add that I don't disconnect my tenders from my locos. I do a lot of handling (try fitting 50+ locos on a small layout), and I find it very annoying when a tender disconnects, partially or completely, from the engine while putting the loco on the track. I should also add that I don't really care for the original parts of my locos... But I can understand why some modellers would. I have a small convertible in my garage, and I like to keep the parts stock!
Paul3FYI: Here's a tip I got from a fellow club member. Go to an R/C hobby shop and by some small fuel line silicone tubing. Cut a 1/8" slice off and take the resulting "donut" of tubing and, after connecting your drawbar to the tender, stick it on the bottom of the tender pin. This will keep your drawbar attached under almost any circumstance but it's easily removable. And since it's clear, it's almost impossible to see under normal running conditions. Try it. Everyone I've given samples to has loved the idea because we've all had that time when we get the boiler on the rails, then go to get the tender on...but then the pin comes out of the drawbar and you have to start all over again.
That's a good tip. I have some from motor shafts