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Proto 2000 GP7 truck power and painting question
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<p>[quote user="BigDaddy"]</p> <p>The two round holes are screw holes. (screws removed before I took the pic)</p> <p> </p> <div class="quote-header"> </div> <blockquote class="quote"> <div class="quote-user">rrinker</div> <div class="quote-content">Since there is a wire going to the lower brush the motor most likely is isolated from the frame but double check so as to prevent frying the decoder.</div> </blockquote> <div class="quote-footer"> </div> <p> </p> <p>This is just a straight forward continuity test? (looking for ways to avoid screwing up)</p> <div style="clear:both;"> </div> <p>[/quote]</p> <p>Yes and no. </p> <p>Place locomotive on a dead piece of track. Check continuity between rails and frame. When you get a beep, remove probe from rails while maintaining contact with frame. Touch probe to bottom motor wire, if it beeps, you have an issue, if not, should be fine. </p> <p>Alternately you can unscrew the weight and remove motor (either screw or those rubber mount press fit in). <strong><em><span style="text-decoration:underline;">Carefully remove the drive shafts by pulling away from but in line with the flywheels (they should be telescoping).</span></em></strong> </p> <p>If rubber mount, rock motor side to side and end to end while pulling up, may need to apply pressure to the bottom four holes. If screw mount it should pull out somewhat easily. </p> <p>Once motor is out, place a piece of electrical tape on the frame at the centerline of the locomotive. Check to make sure that the motor doesnt have one of the frame pickup tabs on it (it shouldnt if there is a wire going to the lower motor contact). Look at the solder joint between the lower motor wire and the frame while you have it out. If it leaves something to be desired, you may wish to re-solder it while it is out. </p> <p><span style="text-decoration:underline;"><em><strong>IF you remove the contact clip from either side of the motor, take care not to loose the motor brush and brush spring (spring is slightly compressed, and if you just pop the clip out it may launch into</strong> <strong>orbit).</strong></em></span><em> </em> </p> <p>If you get this far, you may find it desireable to clean the trucks and re-lube with Labelle products. I have found most of the models that I get from factory are excessively lubricated, even new old stock. Walthers and LL P1k/2k particularly. Had an P1k RS2 that would not run at all due to dried up grease in the gearbox.</p> <p>Reverse process to reassemble.</p> <p> </p>
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