these are both the slug sets being worked on. I have moved the rear light out of both powered units to the slugs. Slugs are nonpowered. what is an idea for wiring th'em together? hard wire or plug. or something else?
SHane
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
Are you running DC or DCC? Sound or no sound? If DCC, I would put decoders in each so you can speed match them by individually tuning CVs. These look like they each have 4 axles, so they should run fine by themselves without wiring together with the parent diesel.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
It's not clear what you are trying to achieve.
Perhaps one decoder for two engines?
Just for handling purposes, I would prefer a plug to hard wiring.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Guess it depends on how much you handle them. If they rarely if ever leave the layout, just run wires between them. If you remove them frequently, or may have some desire to rearrange them, then finding a suitable plug would be better.
Mike
For just lighting, a simple lighting only decoder would work great.
Pete.
Hello All,
Prototypical "slugs" traction motors; built into the trucks, are powered from the lead units prime mover, that's why they are "linked" electrically.
This arrangement eliminates the prime mover in the slug, saving fuel and maintenance costs, hence the low profile hood.
Model locomotives don't work that way- -as you may know.
Typically, a single motor- -mounted in the center of the frame- -is linked to the gear towers on each truck with drive shafts to drive the wheels.
A model slug doesn't have room for the motor let alone the drive shafts and often the gear towers.
That's why many modelers use powered "B-Units" or "Cow & Calf" arrangements that have motors and decoders in each unit, essentially creating a consist.
I'm not sure what you are powering in the slug if anything.
wrench567For just lighting, a simple lighting only decoder would work great.
Or, are you trying to link the wheel pickups from the "slug" to the lead unit for increased reliability?
Understanding "what" you are attempting can help with answering "how" to do it.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
I don't follow what the confusion is. I moved the rear light of the powered unit to the slug. Is hardwiring the two together a good idea or using a plug. Or some other method I might not be aware of? Not sure what the confusion is
shane
A plug would allow you to easily remove the power unit for maintenance or independent running. But like I said above. A simple lighting only decoder would allow really independent running. You would be able to run around the slug and push or pull, allow for switching using only the powered unit and so on.
NVSRR I don't follow what the confusion is. I moved the rear light of the powered unit to the slug. Is hardwiring the two together a good idea or using a plug. Or some other method I might not be aware of? Not sure what the confusion is shane
The confusion is due to you not clearly describing what you're trying to do. It makes perfect sense to you because it's right in front of you, but your written description is not reflecting that.
Is it DC or DCC?
Do the dummy slugs have electrical pickups? If so, why not just use them if you're running DC?
If the dummy slugs have power pickups, and you're running DCC, a lights-only decoder would elminate the need to connect the two units together.
Hardwiring removes a point of failure with a connector, but requires you to use extra care when handling the units.
If you've decided for whatever reason that the two units have to be wired together, then your question is irrelevant. Do what works for you.
NVSRRI don't follow what the confusion is.
AEP528The confusion is due to you not clearly describing what you're trying to do.
Thank you for the clarification.
AEP528Is it DC or DCC?
Still unanswered.
AEP528Do the dummy slugs have electrical pickups? If so, why not just use them if you're running DC? If the dummy slugs have power pickups, and you're running DCC, a lights-only decoder would elminate the need to connect the two units together.
Personally, I'm not a big fan of physically connecting MU'ed units together and would go the separate pickups for DC or a lights-only decoder if DCC.
You did not mention if you want the light in the direction of travel to be on, while the other is off, or Rule 17 Dimming where the light in the direction of travel is at full intensity and the opposite light is at half intensity.
NVSRRI have moved the rear light out of both powered units to the slugs.
Are they incandescent bulbs or LEDs?
The questions might seem tedious but the more information the more specific the solutions.
Now that I have been to return from 403 forbidden exhile. the Bulbs are whatever altlas used in 5e rs32 and bli rsd15. All I did was move the rear light from the mother to the slug. Bli is definitely a led. Atlas I am not sure. Looks like a bulb but could also be a led shaped as a bulb. So for both I kept the wiring as per dcc coding just to be sure. not sure what dcc has to do with the connection but they are both dcc and will be set up for rule 17. Even if the slugs had electrical pickup, the same question of connection between units would exist because I would want to tie the power feeds between the two. To improve connections over a longer wheel base. I just need a reliable connection. Between the two units for the lights. Something that won't break very often. I thought of plugs but is there something better?
NVSRRnot sure what dcc has to do with the connection but they are both dcc
Slugs are nonpowered.
I'm not sure a slug without a decoder is really DCC, but I will leave that for the purists. There are 4 wire connectors here (2 for the track pickup and 2 for the light)
The only other option is a 4 wire cable and a fixed connection between units. I would want stranded wire for the flexibility.
LED's are generic. There is a flat side on the LED itself to denote polarity. I very much doubt there are LED's that look like bulbs.