Atlas Connector Problems

[FRRYKid]

Got yet another weird one for my Forum friends. I have two Connectors (yellow switches) as part of my control panel. All of the sudden none of the switches on them work. (The last time I used it the switches worked.) In checking the units, there's continuity on all the circuits but I can't detect voltage on them when the power is on even going across the Connectors. There are Control Boxes (turnout control) between them and on the leftbend that have voltage and do work. (Mounted upside down on the panel. The wires feed from the right.) Anybody got any ideas? I'm stumped.

As usual, any suggestions that be provided would be appreciated.

[Water Level Route]

Have you tried feeding them from the other end?  Sounds like one of your turnout control boxes (probably the last in line before the controllers) isn't feeding power through on one or both of the legs.

[SeeYou190]

The Atlas Connector is a very easy device to troubleshoot. I would hook up three automotive tail light bulbs to the outputs, and see if each one turns on and off correctly. If not, replace the Atlas Connector.

Since none of them are working, I would suspect an OPEN in the common side of the Atlas Connector.

-Kevin

[jjdamnit]

Hello All,

FRRYKid

I have two Connectors (yellow switches) as part of my control panel. All of the sudden none of the switches on them work. (The last time I used it the switches worked.)

Can you provide a schematic of how they are wired?

FRRYKid

There are Control Boxes (turnout control) between them and on the leftbend that have voltage and do work. (Mounted upside down on the panel. The wires feed from the right.)

The description is a bit confusing.

By using Atlas #0205 Connectors, I presume you are running DC.

If you are running DCC what is the function of the Atlas connectors (block switches)?

To isolate track and/or yard power, or other functions?

FRRYKid

...there's continuity on all the circuits but I can't detect voltage on them when the power is on even going across the Connectors.

Since you have a multi-meter have you tried to "trace" the power?

As a precaution remove all locomotives from the pike- -just in case the power is suddenly restored during troubleshooting.

• Set the multi-meter to VDC (Volts DC).
• Put the Negative (-) Black probe on the negative (-) output of your cab. (An alligator clip attached to the probe can help since you won't be moving the probe during this process).
• Turn the cab up to full power- -this is why you should take all the locomotives off the pike- -just in case.
• Put the Positive (+) Red probe on the output of the cab and note the VDC.
• If there is no voltage detected across these two (2) poles, this indicates a cab failure.
• If you get voltage from the cab, move the Red probe to the next "downstream" point and note the voltage.
• Keep "tracing" the power "downstream" at each connection point, keeping the Black (-) probe on the output of the cab.
• The Atlas controllers have a pass-through circuit, so multiple units can be placed in parallel. Trace the power through these first.
• When moving from one downstream point to the next, if the voltage is not detected this pinpoints the problematic component or closed circuit- -switch thrown in the "wrong" direction.
• If you get to the end of the pass-through circuitry and all is good, begin testing the outputs of each switch for voltage.
• Keep the Black (-) probe on the negative output of the cab and put the Red (+) probe on each output of each switch.
• When the switch is moved to the "open" position you should get a voltage reading, moving the switch to the "closed" position you should get zero (0) voltage.

Without a schematic, I suspect an errant switch has been moved to the "closed" position and is preventing all current from flowing downstream.

You tested for continuity.

Did you test both the Positive (+) "power" side along with the Negative (-) "common" side?

Electrons are like water; without an "outflow"- -Negative (-) path (common rail)- -the electrons can't pass through the circuit(s) and make things move.

Hope this helps.

[FRRYKid]

This is a picture of the section of the panel in question: http://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNMPez3-x3bHEBRdErqpR-MtAFYA42qZzkFhukq

These are on the AC side and I don't run DCC.

The reason for the upside down is that the panel was originally built when the layout was in my former apartment and a bit smaller and to make moving the cations easier.

Both sides were tested and as said the control boxes have power but yet the controllers don't.

[PM Railfan]

lololol what????

 

Yeah, thats a confusing decsription. The "google" link you added wants you to sign in to see your picture. No help there.

 

Since you said the switch controllers have power yet the 'connectors' dont, then i would start with a voltmeter/light bulb tester at the input side of your connector and work backwards. (heading upstream)

If you have power to a switch controller, and it functions, but no power out of it to feed the 'connector', then the problem is either the wiring betwixt the two, or the switch controller is bad on the output side.

Dont forget, just because you cant see through the insulation on the wire connecting the two doesnt mean the wire inside isnt broken. Test the connecting wire by itself too.

One last thing, are you sure its even wired correctly? Sometimes the commercialvision set works better if its plugged in. No matter how fresh the remote control batterys are!

 

All this is presumptuos until you get us a good picture - it can be figured out.

 

PMR

 

 

 

 

 

[FRRYKid]

Try this link: http://photos.app.goo.gl/3Kr7Bg94PosswrB98

Once the picture loads you will see that there is a switch box in the middle and the end that are powered so current has to be going through.

[Water Level Route]

Starting to make more sense.  You have to have a problem with the feed coming to the panel.  I see the blue wires appear to be fed from somewhere off the upper right hand corner.  What about the yellow?  Have you checked where both the blue and yellow originate, and start working your way toward the panel?  You aren't using the center common post on the turnout controllers, and since your switch machines are working, this should be relatively easy to find the issue.  Whichever main wire (blue or yellow) matches up with your common that would otherwise be on that center post is the culprit here.  If you don't recall which color matches your common, just disconnect one of them and try your switch machines  If they still work, that wire you just disconnected is the reason why your Connectors aren't working.  If the switch machines stop working, it's the wire you left connected that is the issue.  Trace it back to it's source until you find the interruption in the circuit.

[FRRYKid]

All the control boxes work just fine and the feeds seem to be solid. Hence the confusion.

[Water Level Route]

FRRYKid

All the control boxes work just fine

Doesn't surprise me.  The control boxes temporarily route power from one of the input screws to either of the outer output screws, depending on which side the button is slid.  The other input screw goes to the center output screw.  I can't tell you if it's the top of bottom inlet screw that goes to the center right now as I'm not home.  Since you are not using that center screw, one of the two wires coming into the turnout control boxes isn't doing anything for you in terms of the turnout control box.  Never has with the way you have your switch machines wired.  The control box is simply passing it through to the connector further down the line.  Take your multimeter or a test light and touch one lead to one of the blue wires, one lead to one of the yellow wires, right where they go into one of your banks of switches.  I bet you don't get anything.  The trick is following them back until you do.  With it working, and then suddenly not, I would look for somewhere in the run of the blue and yellow wires between the panel and the power source that might have gotten snagged while working on something or moving stuff in and out of under the layout.  That kind of thing.

[FRRYKid]

I finally had the opportunity to recheck my circuits this evening and though a bit of button punching I got the lights to come back on. I also found a few things in the process:

1. I found I couldn't detect current around the Connectors on the DC side when I was running an engine on the powered section.
2. I need to move my lights to a hobby pack as the lights dim when I operate a remote machine. (I have plenty floating around.
3. I also discovered that I need to replace two of the control boxes. On one, the button is stuck in such a way that it go down far enough to engage. The other, I push the button and nothing happens.

I obviously I have a few things to fix (what layout doesn't?) but a least the lights are working.

Thank you for all the suggestions.