Found these wire connectors on Amazon. Look to be very useful.
Hello All,
Hmm...
Looks promising since I already use terminal strips.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
I can see those and the 2 in 6 out units making wiring banks of street lights easier which just happens to be on the agenda for this spring.
I find myself more often needing to connect lots of accessories to the same circuit and terminal blocks such as this are very useful for that.
uxcell a13052800ux0615 600V 25A Double Rows 12P 12 Positions Covered Barrier Screw Terminal Block: AmazonSmile: Industrial & Scientific
Speaking of wire connectors, I recently bought a package of suitcase connectors from Amazon. Although a bit cheaper than the ones I've bought from Micro-Mark in the past, they are inferior. The metal piece doesn't cut into the wire as readily as the ones from Micro-Mark and if I'm not careful, it will flip sideways when squeezing it with a crescent wrench rendering it useless. I've had to throw away several already. Hopefully, I'll still have enough to attach all the feeder wires on my last stretch of track.
There are many different types of wire connects when you start looking.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
I really do not think crescent wrench is the proper tool to use on a suitcase connector. I am not a big fan of suitcase connectors.
using the correct tool will give better results!
I think he means slip-joint water pump pliers, which I consider a highly suitable tool for suitcase connectors. I use plastic-faced jeweler's setting pliers, but that's a specialty tool with limited working range.
I recently came across a manufacturer of an interesting version of suitcase-type taps -- I am kicking myself for not recognizing the idea earlier -- where the terminal that clamps on the wire, 'self-pierces' the insulation, etc. is equipped with a female spade terminal at right angles, into which any crimp spade terminal of suitable size easily and reversibly plugs. This solves the whole issue of connecting track feeders to a heavy bus up under the benchwork in the dark in a very appealing way, without needing a bunch of $9 to $12 lever connectors.
There is another option that can be thought of as a poor-man's low-profile version of the lever-locking connectors -- these are a roughly wedge-shaped plastic housing with a row of push-in terminal holes in the end. There is a cross-spring inside the housing that implements the push-terminal spring holding, and a slot (like the one on push-terminal switches or outlets) that lets you lift the spring and release all the wires if you want -- this is not quite 'without tools' but it sure beats screws and carefully formed wire loops if you're working uphand in the dark with lumber at the small of your back.
woodone I really do not think crescent wrench is the proper tool to use on a suitcase connector. I am not a big fan of suitcase connectors. using the correct tool will give better results!
MrMe woodone I really do not think crescent wrench is the proper tool to use on a suitcase connector. I am not a big fan of suitcase connectors. using the correct tool will give better results! The correct tool is "parallel pliers", also known as "parallel jaw pliers". Search using either of those terms and you'll find lots of options. Slip-joint pliers are a little better than "regular" pliers for suitcase connectors, but they aren't nearly as good as parallel jaw pliers.
Yes, I did use the wrong term for the pliers but the problem is not the pliers but the connectors. I'd always used the slip joint pliers similar to this one:
Channellock 430 Tongue & Groove Pliers | 10" Straight Jaw Groove Joint Plier with Comfort Grips | 2" Jaw Capacity | Laser Heat-Treated 90° Teeth| Forged From High Carbon Steel | Made In USA,Black, Blue, Silver,10-Inch - - Amazon.com
They worked fine when using the Micro-Mark connectors but were less effective with the ones I bought from Amazon. I switched to the parallel jaws pliers and got better results but I did have to be very careful squeezing them to make sure the metal clip kept going straight instead of bending sideways. I never had that problem with Micro-Mark connectors.
On suitcase connectors, I strongly suggest using the real 3M Scotchlok ones. I first bought some on Amazon that were listed as Scotch-lock or similar. They were inferior, such as one contact tooth vs. two. The low price was a giveaway. They were returned. I used the real 3M, with a parallel jaws pliers, with very satisfactory results. I used them for feeder offtakes only. For any bus splits, I soldered the connection, to eliminate any risk.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
SouthPennFound these wire connectors on Amazon.
Those look similar to WAGO lever connectors. The genuine WAGO connectors are very well made.
They do look handy.
MrMeThe correct tool is "parallel pliers", also known as "parallel jaw pliers". Search using either of those terms and you'll find lots of options.
I have also found that type of plier to be perfect for suitcase connectors.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I use Wagon 412s and 413s. I've used them for wiring everything as well as for lights when we remodeled the kitchen and bath.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B017NQWDY4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JB3U7Y6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cheers!Dan
If I can piggyback onto this thread...
im looking for a six conn quick disconnect type plug to use on my control panel to ease in being able to take it to the workbench for changes. I ordered an automobile style plug but the disconnect is obviously not in the form of quick or easy. Are there simple plugs available from micro mark or Amazon that would fit my needs?
Terry
MacTrom2 If I can piggyback onto this thread... im looking for a six conn quick disconnect type plug to use on my control panel to ease in being able to take it to the workbench for changes. I ordered an automobile style plug but the disconnect is obviously not in the form of quick or easy. Are there simple plugs available from micro mark or Amazon that would fit my needs? Terry
actually, I just found these on AllElectronics. https://www.allelectronics.com/item/con-640/6-conductor-locking-connector-w/leads/1.html
I use Posi-taps for my layout, can handle up to 5 wires and one connection to the buss, also they do not damage the wire and can be moved or reused without tools. They sell to the goverment but do not beleive they are aircraft approved except in emergency application.
We use those at work for industrial wiring.
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
Has anybody tried this type of connector:
Wirefy 120 PCS T Tap Wire Connectors - Quick Splice Wire Connectors - Quick Disconnect Wire Taps - Red 22-18 AWG: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
They look similar to suitcase connectors and I wondered if they were easier, harder, or about the same to use.
MacTrom2 I ordered an automobile style plug but the disconnect is obviously not in the form of quick or easy.
They're kind of in the vintage category these days but I've used a plug/socket combination called Cinch Jones plugs. Our old module club used to use them for connecting the sections.
They are very robust and most models are polarized so you can only connect them in one orientation. You won't find a five pin but there are six and eight configurations.
Good Luck, Ed
peahrens On suitcase connectors, I strongly suggest using the real 3M Scotchlok ones. I first bought some on Amazon that were listed as Scotch-lock or similar. They were inferior, such as one contact tooth vs. two. The low price was a giveaway. They were returned. I used the real 3M, with a parallel jaws pliers, with very satisfactory results. I used them for feeder offtakes only. For any bus splits, I soldered the connection, to eliminate any risk.
I've used the Scotchlok 567 connectors (bus wire 12-10 AWG, feeder wire 18-14 AWG) on my current and previous layout and have been very pleased with them.
On the previous layout I used regular pliers, which worked ok, but not ideal. On the current layout I sprang for the Scotchlok crimping tool which are parallel jaws pliers, pricey, about $60-70 IIRC, but well worth the investment if you have a lot of wiring to do, as the "per use cost" is minimal. They are particularly useful in tight quarters.
I use the connectors for attaching track feeders to the DCC bus, and Tortoise power to the turnout control bus.
Jim
John-NYBW Has anybody tried this type of connector: Wirefy 120 PCS T Tap Wire Connectors - Quick Splice Wire Connectors - Quick Disconnect Wire Taps - Red 22-18 AWG: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific They look similar to suitcase connectors and I wondered if they were easier, harder, or about the same to use.
Yes. I tap the main bus wire with them and send it to a terminal strip where I run feeders and power to lights etc...
hardcoalcase peahrens On suitcase connectors, I strongly suggest using the real 3M Scotchlok ones. I first bought some on Amazon that were listed as Scotch-lock or similar. They were inferior, such as one contact tooth vs. two. The low price was a giveaway. They were returned. I used the real 3M, with a parallel jaws pliers, with very satisfactory results. I used them for feeder offtakes only. For any bus splits, I soldered the connection, to eliminate any risk. I've used the Scotchlok 567 connectors (bus wire 12-10 AWG, feeder wire 18-14 AWG) on my current and previous layout and have been very pleased with them. On the previous layout I used regular pliers, which worked ok, but not ideal. On the current layout I sprang for the Scotchlok crimping tool which are parallel jaws pliers, pricey, about $60-70 IIRC, but well worth the investment if you have a lot of wiring to do, as the "per use cost" is minimal. They are particularly useful in tight quarters. I use the connectors for attaching track feeders to the DCC bus, and Tortoise power to the turnout control bus. Jim
I second using the Scotchlok tool. I also have been using it with my 567 connectors. Works very well.