Hi all,
I am converting my layout to dcc, and would like to start off by converting my overland models f40ph to dcc and sound. I am posting this here to ask for any tips or if anybody has done it before, how they did it. My model is omi-5893.1
Thanks,
Matt
I have never installed a decoder in that particular locomotive, so no specific advice for that. Is this your first decoder install? My only advice would be to start with a low cost loco, with a low-cost decoder, to hone your skills. If no one replies, you might want to post a picture of the loco with the body removed, to get more specific advice.
Simon
Matt,
I agree with Simon. Posting a photo of the chassis with the shell off AND a view of the inside of the shell would be very helpful in determining which sound decoder(s) & speaker(s) would work for your F40PH.
For starters you will want to confirm that your motor brushes are completely isolated electrically from your frame with an ammeter or multimeter. This is important because the chassis is/was often used to electrically connect the motor to one side of the trucks of most brass and older plastic locomotives. A decoder needs to have the motor brushes electrically isolated in the event of a short, which can fry the decoder.
Another handy piece of information is whether your OMI F40PH comes with an open-frame motor or can motor? A quick search on Brasstrains.com gives some info on your particular model:
https://www.brasstrains.com/Classic/Product/Detail/098310/HO-Brass-Model-OMI-5893-1-Amtrak-F40PH-Phase-III-347-F-P-DCC-1994-Run-Ajin
From the brass guide tab it states that your F40PH was manufactured in 1994. That's probably a safe bet to say it comes with a can motor.
I have a couple of brass steamers from the late 70s and they both came with can motors. I've had only one brass purchase with an open-frame motor and it was a boxcab from the early 70s. Open-frame motors can sometimes draw higher amperage (i.e. as compared to can motors) so you have to make sure that your decoder can handle that, should you decide to leave it in.
Finally (and I keep adding things to this post, as they come to mind): Are you considering adding lighting (e.g. headlight, numberboards) to your F40PH - either now or at some point in the future? That could add some complexity to the install and be a determining factor in your choice of decoders.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
These are very simple to convert. I would recommend a board style decoder like the Loksound Direct to simplify it even further ....
https://www.esu.eu/en/products/loksound/loksound-5-dcc-direct/
The two wires from each truck attach to the ends of the board and the motor connects to the side terminals. Doesn't get much easier. There is lots of room in that engine for a good quality speaker. There are lots of speakers to choose from, but with a wide car body, my favorite is the Tang Band speaker ....
https://www.motownmodels.com/shop/tang-band-t1-1925s-speaker-65x29mm
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
Mark, is there a need to isolate the motor from the frame?
snjroy Mark, is there a need to isolate the motor from the frame?
That particular engine does not have a chassis grounded motor. Athearn RTR engines have the motor grounded to the chassis and work just fine using a PNP decoder. The trick is not having the motor itself being physically grounded. Athearn uses a separate wire / ground lug to connect the isolated motor to the grounded chassis.
Hi again all,
I have asked a friend, and they have said that they will install dcc for me free of charge. Thank you all for your responses.