I have an Overland Brass RS-18 in HO scale and I want to add sound to it.
Is there a suitabe sound decoder out there that would work with the older type of drive found in this locomotive?
Thanks
CN1762
Hi CN,
A few initial questions for you...
Thanks,
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
I did a quick search this morning on Brasstrains.com. The Overland RS-18s that they have listed were all released in 1990. That most likely means it comes with a can motor, which is good. They also come in both a highhood or lowhood version.
Knowing which version and how much interior headroom you have inside the shell for the decoder and speaker(s) will be helpful in making an informed choice of both.
Thanks for the reply.
Not sure of the year of release but guessing the 1990's.
It has a Mashima motor which is 12 volt.
And there is plenty of room for a decoder and speakers.
cn 1762
CN,
ESU has a prime mover sound file for an Alco 12-251B & 12-251C for their Loksound 5 decoder. You can see the list of the horns by clicking the blue "more" in the description, as well as listen to the sound file by clicking "Demo sound and Functions".
TCS and Soundtraxx would also be good choices. The TCS Wow-Diesel V4 decoderhas an Alco 251 prime mover sound set but it's turbo, if that makes any difference. Someone can chime in on the Tsunami2 decoders, which I have no experience with.
There are a number of good speakers on the market and they come in a variety of sizes and shapes. Do you want to install a single speaker,or more than one speaker? I've been very happy with speakers from Scale Sound Systems. I installed two in parallel into the boiler of a brass 2-6-6-2 Mallet and they sound fantastic.
I will recommend ESU. I have several of their loksound 5 and they are fantastic.
JJF
Prototypically modeling the Great Northern in Minnesota with just a hint of freelancing.
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Tomorrow is a Mystery.
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The MLW RS-18 had/has a 12-251B engine, which is available from ESU.
I believe all Alcos had turbochargers, except perhaps for some early ones.
Ed
Ed,
I only saw the 12-251B offered in the older Select but not the Loksound 5...
It shows in Loksound 5.
Article S0767. Whatever that means.
Something else to consider .... does it have all wheel pick up ? Some older brass diesels only pick power from the left side of one truck and the right side of the other, essentially giving them only four wheel pick up.
IF that is the case, I highly recommend adding a power pack to your installation.
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
7j43k It shows in Loksound 5. Article S0767. Whatever that means. Ed
Thanks, Ed. I was clicking on the "factory equipped sound files" link.
Mark R. Something else to consider .... does it have all wheel pick up ? Some older brass diesels only pick power from the left side of one truck and the right side of the other, essentially giving them only four wheel pick up. IF that is the case, I highly recommend adding a power pack to your installation. Mark.
Endorse wholeheartedly!
Did it on a gas-electric--world o' difference.
Thanks to all who responed to my inquiry.
The motor and drive found in these Overland are not too much Amp wise for an ESU decoder?
Thanks Again
cn1762
Loksound decoders have a peak current of 1.5A. I have brass locomotive locomotives with motors that draw under 0.5A and even 0.25A. I think you'll be fine. However, you could always check with an ammeter - just to be sure.
I thought I remembered this:
https://rapidotrains.com/products/ho-scale/sound-decoders/esu-loksound-v50-decoder-mlw-rs-18
... why compromise on the accuracy of the sound?
Thanks Tom.
I believe I have a multimeter that reads Amperage.
Not wanting to sound silly but where would I but the leads of the ampmeter for testing the current draw of the motor?
cn1762Not wanting to sound silly but where would I but the leads of the ampmeter for testing the current draw of the motor?
Not silly at all.
I am assuming the locomotive being tested is still wired for DC operation and has not had the DCC decoder installed yet.
Most digital multi-meters require that the meter attached in series with the circuit to measure amperage. Simply route one of the conductors through the meter on the way to the track.
I use Fluke meters, and they will work without concern for the circuit polarity. Other meters may require DC current to flow in a certain direction for the amperage reading to work. Check your user's manual.
I hope my crude drawing helps.
Note... many electrical meters, like the Flukes, require one of the test leads to be moved from "V/Ohm" to "A" when taking amperage readings. The other lead should stay in the "Common" location.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
For motors it's always best to test current draw under load to get a true reading - i.e. test it connected to the locomotive. I use roller bearing test stands to do this so that I can watch (with the shell off) how the motor behaves - both forward and backwards. They are also handy for breaking in locomotives.
My NCE Power Cab has a convenient built-in ammeter option so I can check and monitor current on my layout or when using the test stands. I had a bad can motor in a brass 0-8-0 that ran in the 0.18 to 0.38A range then spiked up to 0.9A and greater. Had I not been monitoring the current draw, the spikes might have eventually fried the decoder.
Thanks Kevin
I do have access to a Fluke meter and will try what you show in your drawing.