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Whatever you do, don't clip the blue wire -- help me figure out wiring for three isolated areas?

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  • Member since
    May 2004
  • 7,500 posts
Posted by 7j43k on Wednesday, July 7, 2021 11:39 AM

If you're running common rail, you can do it with a SPDT toggle switch.  Center goes to the layout, each outer goes to the appropriate supply.  The two power packs are treated as one supply ON THE COMMON SIDE ONLY.

If you were running non-common rail, they DO make a 6PDT toggle switch.   $19 at Mouser:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nidec-Copal/ET610N13-Z?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtFyPk3yBMYYJQMYdIqGZzQJeN4h7eYntk%3D

You could also do it with relays, if the mood struck you.

 

 

Ed

  • Member since
    November 2013
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Posted by snjroy on Wednesday, July 7, 2021 12:48 PM

Ha, there you go!  Thanks for the info.

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Wednesday, July 7, 2021 1:11 PM

Ok, here is a quickie CAD drawing of what I would do.  If this works for you I’ll wire it up for you.


9 DPDT center off toggles

I second Kevin!

"By the way... BRAVO on the quality of your "crude" drawing.

It was easy to understand and interpret. The addition of an easy to interpret drawing will always get you better answers."




Mel



 
My Model Railroad   
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Christiana, TN
  • 2,134 posts
Posted by CSX Robert on Wednesday, July 7, 2021 1:46 PM

7j43k

If you're running common rail, you can do it with a SPDT toggle switch.  Center goes to the layout, each outer goes to the appropriate supply.  The two power packs are treated as one supply ON THE COMMON SIDE ONLY.

If you were running non-common rail, they DO make a 6PDT toggle switch.   $19 at Mouser:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nidec-Copal/ET610N13-Z?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtFyPk3yBMYYJQMYdIqGZzQJeN4h7eYntk%3D

You could also do it with relays, if the mood struck you.

 

 

Ed

 

Why do you think you would need 6PDT switches?  You only need DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) switches - one double pole for each power pack and the center teminals would go to the block.

 

EDIT - After reading back through the thread again, I think you may be refering to swicthing between DC and DCC.  If that's the case, you would need a 4PDT, whether you're using common rail or not.  In theory, with common rail you could use a DPDT (but still not a SPDT) by having a comon bwteen the DCC system and the power pack common, but I wouldn't recommend it.

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Christiana, TN
  • 2,134 posts
Posted by CSX Robert on Wednesday, July 7, 2021 2:09 PM

snjroy
...My point in my precious message was mostly about mixing the traditional common-rail, two power pack wiring to a combined DC-DCC wiring.  I can't see how you can go from DC to DCC at the flick of a single switch with that arrangement, at least between the power sources and the track...

4PDT center off switch.  The switch goes between the power packs and the block selector switches.  One set of four poles goes to the power packs, two to each pack (whether using common rail or not).  You treat the center four poles just like you did the power packs before, and the other set of four poles goes to the DCC system.  You can wire the DCC system to just two poles and the block selector switches will select between DCC and off when in DCC mode, or you can also jumper the DCC system to the other two poles and both sides of the block selector swicthes will be DCC. 

  • Member since
    February 2021
  • 1,110 posts
Posted by crossthedog on Wednesday, July 7, 2021 2:32 PM

RR_Mel
Ok, here is a quickie CAD drawing of what I would do. If this works for you I’ll wire it up for you.

Mel, this is amazing. It's exACTly what I was envisioning.

  • The green block would allow me to clear the main and pull cuts of cars that are dropped on the siding down into the yard.
  • The lower black block enables me to get my loco out when I might have occasion to pull a short train head first into the southernmost track. The other blocks in the yard would provide "OFF" locations for locos.
  • I drew my siding and my branch line (the beginning of it, anyway) both in blue, but I assume that you are envisioning separate blocks for these, as was I.
  • The branch (which I only hinted at in my drawing) rises to the north end and crosses the main on the west side to come inside the loop, then bends out to the west again into a town that will cover the westernmost curve of the loop. That can all be one block as it would be just one road switcher spotting and picking up a few cars.

What do you mean you will wire it up for me? Are you coming over? Am I dreaming? And what do I owe you? Probably I cannot technically ask that on here, so I'll add that I'm kidding. But yes, it works for me.

-Matt 

Returning to model railroading after 40 years and taking unconscionable liberties with the SP&S, Northern Pacific and Great Northern roads in the '40s and '50s.

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Wednesday, July 7, 2021 2:57 PM

It’s pretty straight forward, just wire it like Ed’s drawing of Traditional DC.  Always make the engineer’s rail the same color wire keeping the polarity correct, I use red for the engineer’s rail.  My layout is normal counter clockwise direction or east to west so the outside rail is red.



Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951



My Model Railroad    
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
 
Bakersfield, California
 
Aging is not for wimps.

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