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SFX006 Soundbug, how to turn off clanking sound for steam

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SFX006 Soundbug, how to turn off clanking sound for steam
Posted by rrebell on Friday, March 12, 2021 12:01 PM

When the engine first starts up in #7 cv sounds it has a clank sound which goes away as it gets up to speed. Is this just  the program ? I know the sound is accurat but it is so much louder than the chuff. 

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Posted by woodone on Friday, March 12, 2021 1:27 PM

Just trash it, and get a real sound decoder! Don't mean to be negative but the sound decoders being made today will make this sound like a toy. Yes, will cost $$ but it will sound 100 % better.

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Posted by wjstix on Friday, March 12, 2021 1:57 PM

Most sound decoders I've seen call that "rod clank". A quick look at the Digitrax manual for your decoder don't mention it, so apparently there's no way to change the volume of it (or turn it off) short of changing the entire sound package and see if it's better on a different one.

https://www.digitrax.com/static/apps/cms/media/documents/documentation/Decoder_Manual_V2-01_2014.pdf

 

Stix
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Posted by rrebell on Friday, March 12, 2021 7:38 PM

Thats what I was afraid of.

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Posted by rrinker on Friday, March 12, 2021 10:23 PM

 Which sound are you using? The two that come with it are for up 3985 or a K-27 narrow guage loco.

 You really just need to get a better quality sound project than the do everything sample they preload in the thing.

                                    --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

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Posted by rrebell on Friday, March 12, 2021 11:54 PM

Hey, I am just starting out in DCC, wanted simple plug and play till I get to the next level. Just doing extra engines now so I can weed out the ones I don't like for my e-bay guy once he can come over again. Already got rid of countless engines and cars and tons of detail parts and kits etc. 

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Posted by wjstix on Monday, March 15, 2021 9:30 AM

rrebell
Hey, I am just starting out in DCC, wanted simple plug and play till I get to the next level.

Unless you buy a blank ESU decoder, all decoders are going to be "plug and play" - that just means there's a receptacle you can plug a decoder in to. If you mean "cheap", I've found cheap doesn't work so well with steam. I find there are good inexpensive diesel decoders that work fine, but with steam in the long run it's better to spend the extra money for a better decoder, like say a TCS or Tsunami.

Stix
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Posted by rrebell on Monday, March 15, 2021 11:02 AM

No, by plug and play, in my case an 8 pin decoder. Only Digitrax seems to make stuff of this nature for older product, which is what I am converting. Otherwize I would just buy sound equiped stuff. I don't need or want top end stuff, the Bachmann sound value as far as sound is fine for me.

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Posted by rrinker on Monday, March 15, 2021 12:57 PM

 ESU and Suundtraxx both have 8 pin versions of their decoders.

                             --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by tstage on Monday, March 15, 2021 2:05 PM

rrinker
ESU and Suundtraxx both have 8 pin versions of their decoders.

                             --Randy

...as well as TCS.

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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Posted by JDVass on Monday, March 15, 2021 8:28 PM

woodone

Just trash it, and get a real sound decoder! Don't mean to be negative but the sound decoders being made today will make this sound like a toy. Yes, will cost $$ but it will sound 100 % better.

I don't have a lot of experience with sound yet but I have to agree with Woodone. Digitrax were my go to decoders until I started with sound. I tried a couple different Digitrax sound setups and was disappointed. I now have 18 sound loco's, 15 with factory sound and 3 that I have installed Soundtraxx decoders in. The Soundtraxx are more money than the Digitrax but are much better as far as sound quality. I ended up just giving a Sound Bug and two Digitrax sound decoders to a friend of mine to put in a few of his kids loco's. I still like the Digitrax decoders I have in my non-sound locomotives but will not purchase their sound products again.

Life is too short not to play with trains, so grow old not up my friends.
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Posted by rrebell on Tuesday, March 23, 2021 10:27 AM

woodone

Just trash it, and get a real sound decoder! Don't mean to be negative but the sound decoders being made today will make this sound like a toy. Yes, will cost $$ but it will sound 100 % better.

 

Yes, I relize this is not the top end. I am just starting out DCC wize and I am taking baby steps. It is not about cost per say but skill level and $ vs enjoyment. I enjoy my sound value engines and I have been able to get many for a fraction of MSRP but I have old DC favorites to convert. Heck, I am still having issues with CV's. I have gotten better at decoder installs but am still 8 pining them. Withn your experience I doubt you remember how intimidating even that can be and how sticky Kaplon tape is and trying to get it to go where you want. I wish the PM system worked so we could talk more of my specifics, got to build a box for a speaker and have never done that, wrong I vaguely remember doing one as a kid out of wood for full size speakers.

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Posted by rrinker on Tuesday, March 23, 2021 11:01 AM

 Take a look at the variety of speakers offered with boxes already - from places like Streamlined Backshop. All sorts of sizes and varieties. Just because a decoder might happen to come with a speaker doesn't mean you have to use that one and try to make your own enclosure for it.

 The most useful tool you can have is a caliper, which you can use to get pretty precise measurements of the space you have available, and then order a speaker and enclosure to fit. 

 There's really nothign wrong with the X series of 16 bit sound decoders from Digitrax, the non-X ones have lesser wuality 8 bit sound. The real problem is that Digitrax didn't want to get involved with going out and collecting recordings - see some of Rapido's videos, and there are some by decoder manufacturers as well, which show what's really needed to do it right - hint, a tape recorder and a single microphone do NOT cut it. So they offered a few sounds they got from somewhere, probably mostly worked up by editing video someone shot, not a properly mic'd up recording session. And it shows. There are third party provided sound files that are much better quality - properly mixed so that the right things are loud and the things that shouldn;t be as loud are kept to the background. But you do need a PR3/PR4 to change them out, or know someone with one. The good projects are made by John McMaster, who posts them in a Groups,IO group called HO Model Layout and DCC Sound Projects. 

 Yes, Loksound, SOundtraxx, and TCS are much better overall decoders. My advice would be to pick one and stick with it rather than have a mix of decoder brands. I've tried most of the sound decoders except TCS, and I've consistently found ESU to have the best motor control and a wide variety of sounds. Plus the decoders are available in all sorts of form factors to fit various needs. So I invested in the Lokprogrammer hardware so I can load sound files. 

 I'd really suggest the same for motor only decoders - pick one and stick with it. I love my Digitrax system, but after my initial 2 decoders I bought at the same time, I tried others and I really don't like the Digitrax ones. At least the previous gen ones that I have - there's a very noticeable jump at several speed steps caused by the way they did their BEMF implementation. Others have disagreed with me and said it's TCS decoders that are jumpy, but none of my TCS decoders run anything but completely smooth across all speeds, while the Digitrax ones have several jumps across the throttle range. Once I get enough track to be able to run a loco at speed without risking it flyiing off the end, I will try to do a video showing this with oen of the locos I have that still has a DH163 decoder in it. Perhaps the newer DH165 series has fixed this, but I've been using TCS ever since. Though as more locos get Loksound sound decoders, those that don't get sound I may start to use ESU Lokpilot, so they have the same DriveHold feature enabling them to more easily consist with the Loksound locos.

 Nice thing about ESU decoders and the Lokprogrammer - it's not just for sound loading, it also updates the firmware in the decoder. Several of my locos don;t have DriveHold, I bought the decoders before this feature was introduced. But if I take one of those locos and put it on my Lokprogrammer program track, I can update the firmware and it will now have DriveHold. 

                                         --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by rrebell on Tuesday, March 23, 2021 4:25 PM

All my decoders I have used so far are brand new. Acual decoder is DH165LO with a SFX006 sound bug, and yes I intend to upgrade the sound at some point though download.

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Posted by wjstix on Tuesday, March 23, 2021 4:39 PM

rrebell

No, by plug and play, in my case an 8 pin decoder. Only Digitrax seems to make stuff of this nature for older product, which is what I am converting. Otherwize I would just buy sound equiped stuff. I don't need or want top end stuff, the Bachmann sound value as far as sound is fine for me.

 

 
Well I have a couple of Bachmann "Sound Value" engines - both steam and diesel - and I'm fine with them too. Not sure what that has to do with programming your Digitrax Soundbug though? Sound Value sound decoders are Soundtraxx decoders. 
 
I know some will not agree with this, but I have a number of diesels with MRC sound decoders. They're easy to install (eight-pin plug) and program, and aren't very pricey. I've bought some of them for around $40 and they work very nicely. 
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Posted by CNCharlie on Tuesday, March 23, 2021 6:19 PM

I have a Digitrax decoder with a SFX 004 Sound Bug. I can't recall rod clank with this one but perhaps it is an earlier version. Anyway there is a CV #145 for Misc. sounds and perhaps it is in this one. I have the volume turned down very low on this CV as I don't like many Misc. sounds. If you have such a CV perhaps you just need to turn the volume of it down. 

I would agree that other sound decoders may be better, I have an ESU in a PK2 0-8-0 that was just a plug in 8 pin that is very nice however I have never felt the need to change the motor decoder, a DH 165LO and Soundbug in the PK2 0-6-0. It has been in it for a dozen years or more. 

CN Charlie

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Posted by rrinker on Wednesday, March 24, 2021 8:12 AM

 The original SFX004 Soundbug could only play 3 sounds at once, so there really was no room for a rod clank.

 I bought an MRC decoder, so I could decide for myself and not take anyones word for it - it sounded more muddled than the Digitrax ones, and I never did get an answer on what the horn selections were - the instructions tell you which CV is the horn selection, and there are supposedly 16 or 32 different ones, but they don't tell you which value of the CV corresponds to a specific horn type. I contacted MRC tech support only to be told "we don't keep track of that".  The Chinese OEM for MRC also now sells many of them direct - which explains a lot. Other than having the factory put an MRC sticker on the outside, I don't think MRC had anything to do with the design of those decoders.

                                       --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by rrebell on Wednesday, March 24, 2021 10:43 AM

Yes there is a mis sounds CV, will try.

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Posted by rrebell on Saturday, March 27, 2021 12:36 PM

Well it turns out that misc dose nothing that I could find, tried the other steam sound and it is closer to what I want. Still experimenting with CV settings and such. Might switch over to mainline programing so I can test after each change eisier. Also mounted the speaker more securly, that accually seemed to dim the sound a bit. Need to try other things too.

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