Got a bunch of decoders but the engines I picked for conversion do not seem as well running as I thought. Now these are steam, one a 4-6-0 spectrum has a thump going forward, checked the main gear (trying to get those wipers back in was a pain), all good, could be another gear I guess as the engine slows down on reverse shortly after being reversed. The other, a 4-4-0 works but dose not run near as well as the newer stuff, both are Spectrum by the way and ran great on DC when I last used, long ago.
I have the 4-4-0 and small driver 4-6-0 and larger driver 4-6-0 for about eight years. They run well with SoundTraxx Micros, I have never had to take the locos apart. I saw no need to. Only the tenders.
A parts and diagrams listed at the Bachmann site. Google Bachmann forums. It will pop right up if you do not have it.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Fix the chassis issues completely before bothering with the decoder.
I've found a lot of my Bachmann steam engines had trouble with the eccentric hitting the main rod each rotation - not enough to stop the engine, but enough to make it slow with each rotation. If you put the engine upside down in a cradle and use power leads to run it slowly you usually can spot the problem area pretty easily. Then just gently bend the problem rod slightly so it doesn't hit anymore.
What I am finding in general is the newer stuff out their generaly run better than what came before with exceptions. Proto 2000 steam, some Atlas, Kato. The trouble with names like Stuart are sometimes it is unclear who made the mechanics some time but that is true of Atlas but to a lesser degree unless you go further back. Now another question, the larger engine has a lot of weight in the tender, I mean it has proubly up to 6 oz. with two chunds of metal that are at least 1"x1"x3/8", could that be part of the issue, it feels like the tender weighs 1/2 what the engine weighs. Also looked for the rubbing but did not see but didn't do the turn over and test yet.
Tried the turnover test, didn't seem to do anything, even after adjustments.
If you can take the engine down to where you can disengage the motor you can put weight on the chassis and see if anything is binding or misaligned.
Once it rolls smoothly, realign the motor and ensure that the driveline engagement and any components move smoothly. You may find damaged or distorted tooth engagement at this stage that would be difficult to assess casually by eye.
Overmod If you can take the engine down to where you can disengage the motor you can put weight on the chassis and see if anything is binding or misaligned. Once it rolls smoothly, realign the motor and ensure that the driveline engagement and any components move smoothly. You may find damaged or distorted tooth engagement at this stage that would be difficult to assess casually by eye.
Ok, took out the decoder and put back in the dummy to test on DC. Why dose it run better on DC. Used the same decoder type I used on my Atlas HH660 and they run great. Got into DCC because of how well cheao Bachmann sound values worked, it is almost like they have a keep alive as the sound never cuts out but I know that can't be because the lights will flicker on dirty track.
rrebellOk, took out the decoder and put back in the dummy to test on DC. Why dose it run better on DC.
Probably the rf noise supression capacitors Bachmann put in. They don't cause much problem with Bachmann's cheap decoder, but any halfway decent decoder with a high frequency drive will be affected.
Where they are depends on the model - some are right on the motor, others are on the factory PCB. Since they are not in series with the motor, they can be removed by simply cutting them off.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker Probably the rf noise suppression capacitors Bachmann put in.
(Ed should have pictures...)
I see bright yellow ones.
Also of note but not related to this thread but still DCC related. Bachman is releasing a 44 ton engine with DCC and sound and keep alive.
Overmod rrinker Probably the rf noise suppression capacitors Bachmann put in. Keep in mind these are MLCCs or equivalent, so they look very like surface-mount resistors. Do not be deceived. (Ed should have pictures...)
Keep in mind these are MLCCs or equivalent, so they look very like surface-mount resistors. Do not be deceived.
Sometimes. Sometimes they are just regular leaded ceramic capacitors. The things easily confused for resistors are the inductors, which ARE wired in series witht he motor, so ytou can't just cut them off. But there's no need to, the inductance has little effect when there is no capacitor.
Haven't seen a posted photo of a Bachmann board yet where the MLCC caps aren't yellow and easily differentiated from a surface mount resistor which is black. But not all those capacitors are part of the motor circuit, Bachmann seems to put them on the light connections as well, supposedly to supress flicker in the LEDs.
All the more reason to just take out the factory board - then there is no worrying if you got the right part removed or not. Overcomplex mess for a simple model train. It's not that difficult to figure out which wire goes where, even if they are all black.
You are just braver than me. There is a real risk reward out there and it has little to do with accual cost. In fact for me I fiqure I am about even when all said and done so in effect this hobby has cost me nothing, which is great. I have been well off on paper for a long time, but not too long ago Burger King was a luxury, like 15 years and only in the last couple have I done well as I got rid of assets and got cash and now this stuff has happened and I have done well, no home runs but I am not that brave ether.
Brace? nah. Just always test on the low power program track first, less likely to blow anything up. I have yet to blow a decoder....
I've been there - more than once. If we count adult life only, for the longest time the only palce I could run anything was at a club I joined, as for my own equipment, I had one BB loco plus a couple of BB and Accurail kits - one loco and 3 cars, because that's pretty much all i could afford. After a lot of hard work I got to the point where I could afford a house, with a basement, and start building a layout. Got DCC, and all that. Then I lost it all AND got stuck with all the bills. Took a while to dig out from under that but I'm back, have a house again, and collected plenty of equipment. I'm still not and never will be, comfortable with breaking something I just bought, or buying a large quantity of an expensive item to stock up on.
I started my adult life after college with an apt building I bought with nothing down. A few years of scronging materials and sleeping on the floor with plaster dust and a shower every few weeks (borrowed) and then started on my floor of the building. Got a real bed and was able to retire by the time I was 29. Got married and started a family and then we moved. Had a lot of money till I bought my next building and after a few things going wrong what little money I had was gone and I stayed broke for almost 20 years but was well off on paper but then you can't eat equity. Sold half my holdings as I was about to go under and about 3 years ago sold the rest. First year was a bit tight as there are a lot of costs involved in buying and selling and getting new place livable but things are good that way at least now. All my train stuff I got for good bargins untill recently and even then I only paid full boat for a few. Have a buddy who has sold off most of my don't wants on e-bay, he kinda needs his commision and I don't need the hassel and he seems to get good prices for most stuff. Trouble is it has been about a year since we met up, before it was whenever I got a box or two together, I got a pile in my closet for as soon as he can come visit again.