Laquer thinner, but you don't want to get that on your skin or a brass brush in a Dremel.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I like using a toothpick for these cases, removing the soot with the wheels spining, the loco on its back.
Simon
Nail polish remover (acetone). Should work since it is a strong solvent
shane
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
UPSD40-2_3612 Update! i finally got my decoder installed. But when I got it on the track, the wheels were sooty. so i tried cleaning it off with isopropyl alcohol, but it barely came off. It is front truck drive, with rear pickups, so, does anyone have a good cleaner?
Update!
i finally got my decoder installed. But when I got it on the track, the wheels were sooty.
so i tried cleaning it off with isopropyl alcohol, but it barely came off. It is front truck drive, with rear pickups, so, does anyone have a good cleaner?
Rich
Alton Junction
Thank you all!
i think i might try out some lacquer thinner.
Also, when i tested my train out on the club layout, i had constant power but no motor spinning. Its not the motor wire connections, we checked those again and again.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Thanks,
UP
any one have
UPSD40-2_3612 Also, when i tested my train out on the club layout, i had constant power but no motor spinning. Its not the motor wire connections, we checked those again and again.
Lastspikemike Is your decoder properly set up to run on the club system? Did you try a decoder reset to factory default and run it as address 3 to check that? If it runs at home then it should run anywhere but maybe you don't have a way to run it at home. Presumably you have at least a piece of powered flex track or your decoder install might have been tricky to complete.
Is your decoder properly set up to run on the club system?
Did you try a decoder reset to factory default and run it as address 3 to check that?
If it runs at home then it should run anywhere but maybe you don't have a way to run it at home. Presumably you have at least a piece of powered flex track or your decoder install might have been tricky to complete.
no, i do not have a powerd track at home. the decoder was never programmed, it was just hooked up. Yes, it was properly hooked up to run on the club (the club and my track plans is digitrax)
i just put it on the rails (properly) and it didi not move
Hi there. I'm going to assume it's the loco, and not the layout, since you tried it at the club. I'm also going to assume that you cleaned your wheels as suggested earlier.
What do you mean by constant power - is power reaching your motor? Do you mean that your headlight is ON and that the loco is not moving? Make sure your wheels are clean before going further.
So you openned the shell and did not see anything obvious. I'm guessing a club member looked at things visually and did not spot anything. I would do the following:
1) Reset the decoder, then try it.
2) Disconnect the decoder and check the motor on DC power
3) Reconnect everything and program the loco on the program track, see if the decoder is responding. If the decoder is NOT responding, then you probably have a dead decoder.
What type of loco are we dealing with? It sounds old...
snjroy Do you mean that your headlight is ON and that the loco is not moving?
Do you mean that your headlight is ON and that the loco is not moving?
Bingo.
before i converted it, it dud run on dc, as i put power to the pickup wheels.
the loco is a vintage Life- Like that is front wheel drive with dummy pickups.
the decoder is responding (not that well) as i have motor, bell, light and operational. The horn is wonky, it does not immediatly but it does work. I pushed the loco down the tracks with no bumps in operation, so i think it's the motor.
again, i have not programmed it yet, so it is coded as 0003.
(although i have a suspicion as the person who installed my decoder put the connections to the motor backwards (the contacts are turned around))
Inverted contacts to the motor would only make your loco run backwards, it would not impact performance per se.
So this is a "vintage" LL... With a motor sitting on the truck? OK, so I have never converted one of those, so maybe someone else should answer. A number of things could be happening: dirty wheels - are they brass wheels? Do you have 8 wheel pickup? A four wheel pickup (two in front, two in back) is really not ideal. Wheels need to be absolutely clean.
The motor could in fact be dead... or be pulling too many amps for your decoder. My bet is on option A. There are ways to rejuvenate these old motors - you might find something through searches on the Web.
Honestly, I would save up my money for a better loco. Since you are in contact with club members, maybe someone can donate a good ol' Athearn Blue Box engine for you to play with. But that would still require a bit of work to convert to DCC. It's not that hard, but it's a bit of work. Better yet, maybe a club member can sell you a DCC loco for cheap.
the motor is on the truck, it is four wheel pickup, all in rear.
i am getting an offer for two full dcc bnsf locos that are paired up for 150$.
what i meant by inverted is a singular pin is flipped around the wrong way (which i flipped back)
Sounds like you found some good locos there.
I just want to say, thank you to all who helped me along this journey, even though i havn't quite yet started.
Anyways, when you guys did your model railway planning, how did you plan it? did you plan it on paper, wood, foam, online, etc. Because here in idaho, wood is expensive, so i would like some advice on what to use.
My club is making a new section of the layout, and their using foam and paper, which made me ask you guys.
UPSD40-2_3612Anyways, when you guys did your model railway planning, how did you plan it? did you plan it on paper, wood, foam, online, etc.
Funny you should ask...
I built the entire layout in full size out of cardboard! I am not so good at track planning, and this 100% guaranteed that everything would fit and look good.
All doubts were removed.
Just click here to read the thread about how I did it.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
SeeYou190 I built the entire layout in full size out of cardboard! I am not so good at track planning, and this 100% guaranteed that everything would fit and look good.
Really? Wow! i didn't even think of that.
That solves my problem!
Hi there. I'm not too clear from what you mean by plan. For my layout at home, I drew a plan on paper, then I build my benchwork and did everything by eye based on the plan... I'm glad with the result, but I have a smallish shelf layout so that was not a problem.
At the club, we are planning for an entire new section, and I'll be using a CAD system due to the sheer size of the space (20X25 space). It's also a useful tool to draw up a few options for the members to pick and choose... As for transferring the plan, I plan on using paper templates transferred on wood supports. It will be open grid, no foam. If I was using foam, I would use paper templates and draw directly on the foam.
snjroy Hi there. I'm not too clear from what you mean by plan. For my layout at home, I drew a plan on paper, then I build my benchwork and did everything by eye based on the plan... I'm glad with the result, but I have a smallish shelf layout so that was not a problem. At the club, we are planning for an entire new section, and I'll be using a CAD system due to the sheer size of the space (20X25 space). It's also a useful tool to draw up a few options for the members to pick and choose... As for transferring the plan, I plan on using paper templates transferred on wood supports. It will be open grid, no foam. If I was using foam, I would use paper templates and draw directly on the foam. Simon
oh, i was just meaning planning out the layout, but thanks for the input!
My mom is an office worker, she gets quite a lot of unused printer paper, so i could use that!
Ok, so if pen and paper is your preferred route, I strongly suggest you use graph paper, and pick a scale (e.g., 4 squares to a foot). You can then apply the planning by squares method (by John Armstrong). Basically, you choose a scale and plan your curves based on that. For example, if you choose to go for 24" radius, you will need a space of 24 by 48, or eight square feet to form a half circle. Of course, extra space is always needed for car overhang, but I think you can figure out what I mean.
Of course, there is nothing wrong with blank paper - you just need to do more measurements with a ruler.
So, update...
My dad came home after travelling for work, and he broght a surprise... an O scale expansion pack.... What he did not understand, is i do ho.....
We plan to build a shelf for it
Hey, maybe you'll end up doing both O and HO... Many HO scalers have a bit of O scale stuff, if only to set it up under the tree during the holidays. Don't forget to show us pictures when it's up an running!
Lastspikemike Well, if you're going to go big go G !!!!!!!
Well, if you're going to go big go G !!!!!!!
Thats what i told my mom!!!
she does not like the idea though.
Today is the day i might get my 2 BNSF locomotives. The guy was being nice and gave me an amzing offer for 150$, even though they are 300+$ a peice.
Don't worry, hes at my club, he ran it on the track, no ebay scam here
Also I will not be online for a bit, as my computer is going to get worked on for a bit, it doesn't function properly
BIG UPDATE! so the idea of a zepher went out the window, and the life like F7 dcc is still in progress, but i have a 4x8 DC system modeled after White Bird Pass and is 2 loops. 1 is the main outer loop, and in the tunnels is 2 switch to a overlapping loop that goes over a river in the middle a total of 3 times. but there is a problem. my switches are on elevated track, and I can't find a throwbat for my Tortoise switch machines to switch it. for reference, the standard switchbar just reaches the end of the wood base when I fit it. Does anyone know how to get over this, whether it be bought or created, I need ideas. Also im doing somthing for my club, about time (Caldwell Model Railroad Club in Idaho). Does anyone know some books that i can see about having that helps me with proper runs on a layout?
Sorry about the "wait"
Oh, and im also getting into n scale for a closet layout possibly
So, I got my package in the mail the other day, with my new switch, scenic glue, and green grass. I am excited to do some of my scenery today. I have restored an old GP40 loco and a Streetcar labeled "Peoria". Soon I will have new switches motorized, and I will have my layout wired. Does anybody know where i can get switch covers, so i can show if my switch is straight or to the side track?
Thanks, UP
UP,
I can't help with your question, but I really liked the video of your club layout. Nice work!
York1 John
York1 UP, I can't help with your question, but I really liked the video of your club layout. Nice work!
Thank you!
So, I actually have a question about Wiring and electronics. Does anyone here know a great place to buy hobby motors to replace pancake motors? I would like to increase speed and power on my locos, and i want to install DCC because I am sooner or later getting a zepher. Also What is your guys' take on Northlandz? do you reccomend going? i would like to take my family there for a christmas "experience."
Never been over to northlandz. Is it even still there I know roadside America is gone.
Northwestshortline. Nwsl.com is where most go to get motors gears and such