I recently purchased two PSX-4s as I plan on setting up 7 power districts. Reading the instruction manual that came with them they indicate rails should have gaps of 0.75 inches between districts. Was going to use insulated railjoiners, but I'm unsure how you support the small 0.75 piece of rail that would exist after cutting away the ties and snipping the rail to get the railjoiner on the shorter cut rail or how it would meet up with the next flextrack. I'm using Atlas flextrack. It seems like there would not be enough support to hold this little piece on or how the next flextrack would meet up with this rail.
Bottom line I guess what I'm really asking is it really necessary to have the 0.75" gaps to make this work properly?
Appreciate any help and I'm just about ready to start laying track.
Using 2 Digitrax command station/boosters.
Thanks
Coastie71
Coastie71Bottom line I guess what I'm really asking is it really necessary to have the 0.75" gaps to make this work properly?
Coastie71Was going to use insulated railjoiners, but I'm unsure how you support the small 0.75 piece of rail that would exist after cutting away the ties and snipping the rail to get the railjoiner on the shorter cut rail or how it would meet up with the next flextrack.
I have eight power districts, and three reverse loops all with the necessary rail gaps (HO code 83).
In nearly every case my gaps are about .040" wide, the thickness of a Dremel cut-off abrasive wheel. In most cases I've cemented a small strip of styrene into the gap with either epoxy or, mostly, thick ACC, "Super Glue".
I'm not sure I understand "supporting the small .075 piece of rail" ? The insulated joiner has a small "nub" in the center that keeps each rail end from abutting. If you are laying new track and using the insulated joiner just substitute this for the metal one.
Some of the gaps are straight across from eachother but in a few cases they are staggered. Doesn't seem to make much difference. In hidden areas I've used the nylon insulating rail joiners.
.075" seems excessive in my opinion.
Good Luck, Ed
I don;t think it's anywhere near that critical - the only reason I can think that this would even matter is that if there is a short in one section AND a metal wheel is bridging the gap between that section and the next. Not very likely.
It's funny, the only brand of breaker and autoreverse that has such a drastic specialized gapping 'requirement' are the PSX ones. But it doesn't seem to be necessary.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Coastie71 Reading the instruction manual that came with them they indicate rails should have gaps of 0.75 inches between districts. Bottom line I guess what I'm really asking is it really necessary to have the 0.75" gaps to make this work properly?
Reading the instruction manual that came with them they indicate rails should have gaps of 0.75 inches between districts.
gmpullman .075" seems excessive in my opinion. Good Luck, Ed
If a .075 gap seems excessive, how about a .75 gap. That would be a 3/4" gap. That clearly has to be wrong.
If the OP meant .075 for the gap, that would be roughly 5/64".
Rich
Alton Junction
I decided to go back and read the PSX Instruction Manual.
What the manual says is to "Cut isolating gaps in the rails between PSX zones, and stagger the gaps by about 0.75”.
Ed, I appreciate your well informed response. Based on it I will cut the necessary gaps, but I think I'll stick with the insulated rail joiners as I'm already overwhelmed with the amount of effort needed to get the model railroad to the point I can run trains. I've been working on this thing for about 11 months and only now finishing up on the cork roadbed.
Again, I really appreciate your help.
Coastie71 (Gary)
Randy, I always appreciate your input. Based on Ed's comments I think I'm going to follow his advice and that of the PSX manual. I'm just afraid I'll do something and regret I didn't follow the manual.
Again, I appreciate your response.
Rich, yeah I couldn't believe it really says 0.75 and not .075 inches, especially after I did find a forum response after I posted my question where everyone was talking about a 1/8" gap. So I guess I'm cutting a 0.75" gap in the adjacent rail. Unfortunatley, I've got about 42 of these gap cuts I'm going to have to do and I already messed up cutting a small piece of track between two turnouts so I'm a little nervous that I'm going to be messing up a whole bunch more track.
I'm using rail snippers as I'm not really comfortable using a dremel wheel.
Also, I guess I was thinking you had to cut the rail at the end of a 3' piece of flextrack, but reading the other forum responses it looks like I should be cutting the track more towards the middle of the 3' section and that would mean these two cut halfs would meet up properly and not affect the next 3' piece.
Thanks again for your help and quick response.
richhotrain I decided to go back and read the PSX Instruction Manual. What the manual says is to "Cut isolating gaps in the rails between PSX zones, and stagger the gaps by about 0.75”.
I never understood staggered gaps. What is the purpose?
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Coastie71I'm using rail snippers as I'm not really comfortable using a dremel wheel.
Hi, Coastie
Rail nippers (beveled side cutters) are not a good tool at all for making insulated gaps especially on rail that has already been installed.
As the "waste" side gets displaced there's no where for it to go and you will ruin the track, especially near turnouts where the "spikes" that hold the rail down will be ripped out because the rail will push them out of place. Rail nippers will leave a sharp, pointed end on the waste side, too. This point would be impossible to smooth out on rail that is already secured to the track bed.
I agree that using a Dremel or similar cut-off abrasive wheel takes a little skill and a steady hand and there are drawbacks here.
A larger motorized tool makes it impossible to get a 90° cut into the rail.
There are smaller, cordless tools that are a little easier to manage. I frequently use the Dremel Flex-shaft which has a very small diameter at the chuck end so you can get perpendicular to the rail for the cut.
You need a good grip on the tool and don't force the wheel. Also choose the right abrasive wheel. Don't use those thick, reinforced ones. They will take out too much material. The thin, red ones arte best but as they wear down you have to replace them sooner. They are probably good for only 10-12 cuts before they are worn to a diameter that is too small to be effective.
Plastic rail joiners may be your best choice if you are not able to get a clean gap.
Lastspikemike BigDaddy richhotrain I decided to go back and read the PSX Instruction Manual. What the manual says is to "Cut isolating gaps in the rails between PSX zones, and stagger the gaps by about 0.75”. I never understood staggered gaps. What is the purpose? It's a voltage thing. The idea is it prevents a situation where max voltage can be double the nominal 16v. One would think the auto reverser wouldn't care and just do its thing so fast nothing would go wrong. But in theory?
BigDaddy richhotrain I decided to go back and read the PSX Instruction Manual. What the manual says is to "Cut isolating gaps in the rails between PSX zones, and stagger the gaps by about 0.75”. I never understood staggered gaps. What is the purpose?
It's a voltage thing. The idea is it prevents a situation where max voltage can be double the nominal 16v. One would think the auto reverser wouldn't care and just do its thing so fast nothing would go wrong. But in theory?
I guess that covers those DCC systems that don't have a system common to handle that. Plus it really can only happen with offset pickup locos, like old steam locos that pick up one side on the loco and the other side on the tender, or diesels with only 4 wheel pickup, 2 on each truck.
I would definitely NOT put a .75" gap in your rails, that will lead to some really bad clattering if not outright derailments from such a huge gap. Insulated joiners should be fine - and unless you use sectional track, it's quite unlikely that the gaps would be directly across from one another just as a natural consequence of laying track.
And it's true - the instructions say STAGGER the gaps by about .75", not make the gaps .75" wide. That means the gap in Rail B should be about .75" to the left or right of the gap in Rail B.
richhotrainWhat the manual says is to "Cut isolating gaps in the rails between PSX zones, and stagger the gaps by about 0.75”.
I was about to point that out but Rich beat me to it. The instructions do not call for a 3/4" gap in each rail. They are telling you to cut a small gap (0.080" is good) in one rail, and cut the second rail gap 3/4" 'down the line' as it were. You will have two 0.080" gaps but they will not be directly across from each other. They will be 3/4" apart, i.e. staggered.
The gap doesn't have to be exactly 0.080" Ideally it will be the same size as whatever spacer you will use, whether it is the width of the seperator in the insulated rail joiners, or the same width as a styrene filler. Some people just use epoxy and file it to shape.
Note that styrene or epoxy fillers are easier to install on track that has already been laid. Insulated joiners require that the track be lifted. Styrene or epoxy can be installed without having to disturb the track.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Ed, thanks again for your detailed input. I haven't laid any track yet so I thought I was going to use the rail snippers not just for this purpose, but for cutting all track that will need to be cut. I'll look into your smaller dremel tool, I know I have a dremel tool and I think one of those red cut wheels, but still very hesitant on using them for anything other than maybe trimming the tortoise spring wire on the 23 switch machines that I need to trim now that I've laid all the cork roadbed.
Thanks again, Gary
Randy, I agree. I meant to say stagger the gaps by .75 and not cut a .75" gap. I'm using Code 83 HO Atlas flextrack and I already have the insulated joiners. I plan on only making the staggered gaps on straight track versus near or on any curves and plan to solder all the rail joiners, especially on the curves.
Thanks, Gary
LastSpikeMike, thanks for your input. I'll look into the backsaw blades you mention. Not sure what you meant by tomcut gaps. Track is not laid yet.
Dave, thanks for your information. I haven't laid the track yet and plan on using the insulated joiners that I purchased. Yeah, I'll stagger the gaps, but not sure yet what tool to use as I'm starting to hear rail snippers not the right tool and may purchase the rail backsaw that was mentioned as I really don't like the idea of the dremmel cut wheel.