This thread was started for people new to DCC to avoid problems. Example, I got a wired throttle and pluged it into the main unit but got erratic behavior, no where in the manule did it say you had to make sure the main address had to be changed if the same as the trottle, just thought the conection would be taken over. You might say, well duh but being new ment I didn't know. Been in this hobby a long time but never saw an advantage to DCC ujntill the sound bug bit, even the cheap Bachmann stuff I have (price I paid) has impressive sound.
1. How to keep your track clean (see numerous threads on options). An issue with stalling or sound hiccups unless the locos have keep alive type capacitors. With decent track work and proper attention, few need keep alives.
2. Turnout spots where shorts can occur when a loco wheel bridges from its normal rail, across to an adjacent rail piece of opposite polarity. In my case, my Walthers-Shinohara code 83 curved and 3-way turnouts have such issues in a spot or two. The fix is a bit of clear nail polish to prevent the bridging.
3. Program track considerations:
- If on the layout and connected to the layout track, how to wire it for isolation, to prevent a loco in operation from running into the program track section when the program track toggle switch is (occasionally) left switched to program position. The DCC operating voltage, through the loco wheel at the rail joint, going back into the DCC system programming output, can fry the programming circuitry. The risk to the programming circuitry can depend on the DCC system.
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/track_2.htm#d2
- When a program track booster circuit board is needed to read CVs on the program track. I can't recall whether that depends on the DCC system, the decoder type, or whether reading CVs with PC software like JMRI Decoder Pro. In my case, I added a Soundtraxx PTB-100 but I don't recall the ins & outs. One of these threads in a Google search may provide insight:
https://www.bing.com/search?q=site%3A+cs.trains.com+program+track+booster&cvid=5c1a509f2c484a5191ed0e84c9c77e99&FORM=ANAB01&PC=U531
4. Certain older locos when consisted can short via metal couplers IF the frame carries track voltage and the metal couplers are not isolated from the frame, and the locos are carrying reverse track polarity. This could occur when any such similar locos were connected with one pointing in opposite direction from the other, such as how A-A units might be connected. I think this is a rather unusual situation, as even with hot frames the couplers themselves can be isolated from the frame and coupler box screw if the box and box's coupler shank pivot cylinder are plastic. Perhaps someone can clarify.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
It starts early. The first consideration for good DCC performance, if it is desired at all (and we all learn that it IS...), is preparation of smooth roadbed that doesn't have extreme dips and rolling. If your tracks are uneven, longer-framed locomotives might lose contact with the rails when wheels get 'light' or even lifted off the rails entirely, and this will lead to degradation of pickup, which is oh-so-critical with DCC. (It's changing because of keep-alive components showing up on product lines recently, which I feel is a hugely salutary and welcome advancement for the hobby.)
Then, clean and well-fed rails (electrically). DCC works far better when the rails have robust voltage and signal along their entire lengths on a given layout.
Lastly, read and learn about DCC, particularly YOUR OPERATOR'S MANUAL!!!
DCC, like DC, can have a lot of wiring. It's true whether you have one single district or you break your layout up into different zones with circuit breakers.
You must get every wire correct. Really, it's better to complete and test smaller regions one at a time, rather than building all the trackwork and then wiring it. One misplaced wire on a large layout can be a nightmare to find. Even more complications can be introduced by auto-reversers which are designed to correct phase flips, but miswiring can put you in situations that work most of the time, but fail in others.
Define a wiring color code, and stick with it. When you run out of red wire, don't substitute blue because you have it. Get more red wire. If it takes a few days to get red wire, paint some figures or replace plastic wheels with metal ones. No more wiring!
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
For DCC track feeders, I used red and white wires. My layout has some twists and turns.
I followed a suggestion from someone on this forum as I soldered feeder wires. I got an old flat car, and marked one side red and one side white. As I worked around soldering wires, I always made sure to keep that car on the track.
York1 John