I've installed a Peco code 100 double slip switch in staging; my understanding is the rails coming off the frog on both ends need to be insulated and the outside rails may be connected via metal rail joiners.
Is there any special wiring considerations with these switches? I tend to melt plastic so I'm not interested in soldering jumpers underneath and wish to keep this fairly simple if possible.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
Not sure why you would need insualted joined, the inside rails are insulated from each other if this is really an Insulfrog. An Electrofrog version you would need the insulated joiners.
It seems they have dead spots in them so unless you put keep alives in everything, soldering some jumpers are shown on Wiring for DCC is the only way to make them solidly reliable.
http://wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm#a12
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
If there is no way to make these have power through without soldering jumpers all over the place (and for me that means melted plastic city), I can just remove it and change the configuration.
Lastspikemike Peco are power routing. Insulfrog do not need isolating, the frog is dead electrically. To duplicate the Atlas version would require adding jumpers but adding a power drops to the main and diverging routes would be an easier solution.
Peco are power routing. Insulfrog do not need isolating, the frog is dead electrically.
To duplicate the Atlas version would require adding jumpers but adding a power drops to the main and diverging routes would be an easier solution.
This is for a layout which will be using DCC if that makes any difference. I've been searching for a diagram similar to the standard DCC turnouts that shows how they are installed on a DCC layout and so far haven't found any, but I'll keep searching.
Atlas doesn't make a double slip in HO.
There's really no difference DC or DCC. A short is a short. The difference is that with DC, the circuit breaker is usually very slow acting, so the power just sags initially instead of cutting off, and if the loco can coast at all, it can usually get past the short before the breaker trips out. With DCC, the breakers are very fast acting, so a short nearly instantly cuts power.
I don't think the Peco is literally dead in the areas marked on the Wiring for DCC diagram, rather those parts get power through point rail contact only, meaning without the jumpers, long term reliability is the issue. Electrofrog wouldn't help, then you'd need the insulated joiners AND need to solder wires to power the frogs.
Replacing the double crossover with a crossing and other turnouts, I would still use the Electrofrog version of the crossing, simply because there is power everywhere and no dead spots. The frogs would have to be wired to something, like a Frog Juicer, to power them, and insualted joiners would be needed on the innermost rails.
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/track_2.htm#a53
I'm using electro frog turnouts and have that figured out.
This is a code 100 insulfrog double slip. Since, as they say, a picture can be worth a thousand words, I'm searching for an elusive picture or diagram that shows how the insulfrog Peco double slip is installed.
Rio, when faced with a complicated turnout, I have always just broken out the ohm meter and figured it out myself.
I never could figure out a Shinohara double slip from the diagrams, but 5 minutes with a meter, and all my questions were answered.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
So on the one hand you say:
But on the other hand the British forum diagram shows insulating joiners on all ends of the double slip switch.
The truth is out there.
The chap in the British forum is using the Electrofrog version. You need insulated joiners on the diverging frog rails of those.
Yes, this is an insulfrog double slip. I do plan to have several power districts but this double slip will not be on the edge of one.
FWIW, you never have to worry about making any double slip switch "DCC Friendly". At no time will any open point be the opposite polarity of the stock rail next to it. It literally can't happen due to the way all double slips are constructed.
I have four Peco Code 83 Unifrog Double Slips, but I am not familiar with the Peco Code 100 Insulfrog Double Slip. I have seen conflicting comments on whether or not that particular double slip is power routing. But if it is an Insulfrog, if you power all four ends of the double slip, it won't matter whether it is power routing. The frog is plastic on an Insulfrog, so no need to gap the inner rails.
Rich
Alton Junction
The Insulfrog and Unifrog should be the same when it comes to needing insulated joiners or feeding power fromt he outside. Power to the internal rails - that's the unknown factors. Easiest thing to do is test it with a meter that has a continuity beeper so you can focus on which rails you are touching and not have to look up at the meter all the time. Test each path the wheels could take witht he possible combinations of points settings, and see if there is power all the way through. A small aliigator clip on one lead could be handy - then you can clip to one rail, touch another, and move the points to see if the power is depending on the point blade contact or if there is internal bypass wiring. That should give you a pretty clear picture of what might need extra wires attached and what's good out of the box. Visual inspection only goes so far, but I'd be surprised if there are power jumpers, they are anything other than Peco's usual tack welded wires through slots on the underside of the ties.
If in the shank of a dog bone shape - yes, it would cause a reverse loop problem, but the best way to handle that is to make the end loops the isolated reversing sections, then you can cross over between the two mains as much as you want with regular turnouts or slips and not have to worry about it.
So consensus is, metal joiners on all rails.
riogrande5761 So consensus is, metal joiners on all rails.
rrinker The Insulfrog and Unifrog should be the same when it comes to needing insulated joiners or feeding power fromt he outside. Power to the internal rails - that's the unknown factors. Easiest thing to do is test it with a meter that has a continuity beeper so you can focus on which rails you are touching and not have to look up at the meter all the time. Test each path the wheels could take with the possible combinations of points settings, and see if there is power all the way through. A small alligator clip on one lead could be handy - then you can clip to one rail, touch another, and move the points to see if the power is depending on the point blade contact or if there is internal bypass wiring. That should give you a pretty clear picture of what might need extra wires attached and what's good out of the box.
The Insulfrog and Unifrog should be the same when it comes to needing insulated joiners or feeding power fromt he outside. Power to the internal rails - that's the unknown factors. Easiest thing to do is test it with a meter that has a continuity beeper so you can focus on which rails you are touching and not have to look up at the meter all the time.
Test each path the wheels could take with the possible combinations of points settings, and see if there is power all the way through. A small alligator clip on one lead could be handy - then you can clip to one rail, touch another, and move the points to see if the power is depending on the point blade contact or if there is internal bypass wiring.
That should give you a pretty clear picture of what might need extra wires attached and what's good out of the box.