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My first brass steamer to DCC: Thoughts and musings => Photos added

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  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Collinwood, Ohio, USA
  • 10,707 posts
Posted by gmpullman on Monday, July 13, 2020 1:41 AM

Hi, Tom

I don't know what they were thinking by making that hole so far back. I wound up using the Kadee 242 snap cover box and drilling and tapping a 2-56 hole slightly ahead of the original.

I found that making slight adjustments fore and aft on the gear towers made a difference in the smooth running of the drive. There's a "sweet spot" but it is elusive. Slightly loosen the two long screws and make minor adjustments to the alignment of the gear train for the best operation.

 

Hope that helps,  Ed

 

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  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Northeast OH
  • 15,402 posts
Posted by tstage on Monday, July 13, 2020 6:18 AM

Thanks, Ed.  Had the 232 & 252 gearboxes but was out of the 242.  Will pick those up sometime.

Tom

http://www.newyorkcentralmodeling.com

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

  • Member since
    May 2020
  • 74 posts
Posted by wrench567 on Monday, July 13, 2020 9:38 AM

Tom.

  The tuned motors are very quiet. If it has good bearings and the commutator is clean you will have a great motor on your hands. Don't over oil the bronze bearings. One drop and wipe away the excess. Most of the ones I have seen use oilite bushings that are impregnated with graphite.

  When I repowered one of my steamers ( before I learned about tuning ) the motor shaft was too small for the silicone tube to grip. I put a piece of shrink tube on the end to build up the diameter. The little B6s is still switching the yards with the shrink wrap on the shaft. Since that had gone so well I started making heat shrink clamps for the ends of the silicone drive shafts. I cut about an 1/8 inch wide piece that fits the outside of the silicone tube and use a flameless heat source to shrink it around the end as I turn the tube.

  One of my 2-10-0 locomotives had a silicone drive tube keep walking up the motor shaft. A little piece of shrink wrap in the center fixed it.

  Good luck and stay safe.

      Pete

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  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Northeast OH
  • 15,402 posts
Posted by tstage on Sunday, July 19, 2020 4:56 PM

I was able to procure 2' of Du-Bro silicone tubing fuel line (small - DUB221) from a local HobbyTown and have it shipped to me for $1.99.  It should also have the identical ID & OD of the silicone tubing that originally came with the boxcab.

The front & rear headlights are already wired in.  I'm just waiting on the TCS MC2 decoder to arrive from Litchfield Station, with the option of outfitting it with a KA2 Keep Alive if I want.

Tom

http://www.newyorkcentralmodeling.com

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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