Hello all --
I'm working on a Proto2000 GP38 that has a decoder (digitrax DH123) hard-wired into it.
When I put it on the track, it wouldn't run well -- gears were all clogged up.
So... I did my best to disassemble the trucks and clean them out with alcohol, then put it back together. Not easy to do while all the wiring is soldered together!
I got one truck completed ok, but while re-assembling the other one, I noticed that one lead had a lot of insulation worn off, plus the little plastic "cap" that secures it to the lug on the truck frame came off -- it's too loose, needs "a fresh one" for a solid connection.
But... I don't have any parts, wire, etc. (I'm new at this!)
I believe 30 gauge stranded wire is what I need for the replacement, is this correct? I don't need much, just about 24" of orange (in case I make mistakes).
Also... I was trying to search ebay for those little black plastic "caps" for the wiring lugs on the trucks (same as used on some decoders), but I'm having problems because I don't know what the proper name for them is.
EDIT: I checked an Atlas parts sheet and it shows them as "Wire Retainer part number 850311". Now... how to find 'em?
I'll also need to buy a few strips of heat-shrink tubing. What diameter tubing works best with 30 gauge wire?
One other request:
Perhaps you've encountered older Proto2000 engines that had a light board with an 8-pin plug that plugged into the top of the board -- which has 8 lugs on it, to which all the loco wiring goes. The RS27, GP38, GP7 & 9 models have this plug-in assembly.
If anyone has an extra one laying around they don't want, I'd be glad to take it off of their hands...
Go here,
https://hoseeker.net/lit.html
Scroll down to, and click on Life Like.
When that opens, the box in the top middle says Engine diagrams / part numbers.
Click on the drop down box, scroll down to the P2K 2000 GP38, there's six pages of info that comes with the loco, diagrams, and part numbers.
If the decoder is hard wired, why do you want to change that? If the old DH123 goes, unplug it from the harness, plug in a new decoder, done.
Not every retainer is exchangeable with every board. I ran into this problem with Athearns. The Atlas might work, but might not. It's how they fit, some are longer than others, some the hole for the wire might not match the board. Most solder that connection.
Mike.
My You Tube
I don't need to change the decoder.
I need to replace a wire coming from the decoder to one of the truck pickups (that wire is worn, insulation worn off and is going to short out unless replaced).
For this I need:
- the replacement wire (I believe it's 30 gauge, right?)
- some heat-shrink tubing for where I solder old wire to new one
- a wire retainer (small black plastic "nub" that presses over lug) to connect the wire to the truck lug. I DO NOT want to solder this connection, I want it removable. (please don't suggest that I solder here, I'm not going to do it)
OldEnginemanPerhaps you've encountered older Proto2000 engines that had a light board with an 8-pin plug that plugged into the top of the board -- which has 8 lugs on it, to which all the loco wiring goes. The RS27, GP38, GP7 & 9 models have this plug-in assembly.
When you ask for another harness, I wasn't sure what you exactly were doing. Now I understand you want it so you can use the wire.
I did get that your not replacing the decoder.
30ga decoder wire will work good, get some in the same color as the one your replacing.
Look up the right P2K part number for the retainer, as I mentioned in my first post, they're not all the same.
Where the wire attaches to the truck, soldering that connection is best. The retainers can vibrate off.
You can buy just the harness, they usually come in bags of 5, so you'll have extras, or, you can buy just the wire.
I'd look up the part numbers, and either call Walthers, or look on line. Walthers will still charge about $11 shipping cost for these little, almost weightless parts.
Look at all the other train stores that members on here buy from.
There was another thread in here, just very recently, about where you can slavage 30ga wire, and what size shrink tubing works best. Look for that thread, it has some good info in it.
EDIT: The thread I was referencing is: "Heat shrink tubing for tiny wire". Back about 17 days ago, started by PED, in the electronics forum.