I have a couple of Walthers Shinohara specialty tracks, a 3-way turnout and a double crossover, each with a dead rail segment. The problem is the thin metal jumper on the underside of the turnout that has separated from the bottom of the rail that it is supposed to supply electrical power to. The contact spot is too small to reach with solder, and it appears that solder is not even used in the manufacturing process.
Would electrically conductive adhesive work to repair the loose connection? Any recommendations as to brand? In searching the Internet, I see that it can be purchased in syringe form. That would appear ideal to get the adhesive into a tight space.
I would appreciate your thoughts and ideas.
Rich
Alton Junction
are averse to soldering a wire between the rails above the ties that will be visible?
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
gregc are averse to soldering a wire between the rails above the ties that will be visible?
I am wondering if a syringe type applicator would be the way to go. Several sources of electrically conductive adhesive use this method.
On the Walthers Shinohara turnouts, the jumpers are thin metal strips with spoon-like ends that make contact with the bottom of the rail. Since these jumpers have already separated where the spoon makes contact with the rail, it would be fairly easy to apply the adhesive to the bottom of the rail with the syringe and then press the jumper spoon end back into place.
Anyone?
Rich,
Without having it in My paws to see.....would it be possible to use silver bearing solder paste put in with a syringe and heat, without considerable damage to the ties? The paste has built in flux, when temp. is reached, it actually flows like adhesive capillary action to the joints, quicker than regular solder. Or add an external wire like has been suggested. Without seeing what's going on it's hard to give advice.
Edit: Or possibly slide a strip of tin/bronze under the web of the rail and on the ouside of the rail solder it to the rail, then you can solder a jumper to that?
Good Luck!
Frank
RR_Mel Rich I don’t have any Shinohara turnouts but I have soldered a couple of Atlas turnouts that have had what sounds like a similar problem. I went with a good amount of rosin paste on the bad connection and a quick in and out with the iron worked OK. I haven’t had very good luck with other type of fixes; the good old soldering method has always worked the best for me. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Since one end of the jumper had separated from the bottom of the rail, I applied a small spot of hot solder, which was on the point of a soldering pencil, onto the bottom of the rail and quickly pressed the end of the jumper onto that spot of solder with the hot tip of the soldering pencil. That did the trick.
Thanks to all who replied to this thread. I had hoped to hear from someone with personal experience with electrically conductive adhesive, but no matter. I am not at all sure that electrically conductive adhesive would be the solution to the problem.
Sounds like you fixed the problem. I have used electrically conductive epoxy - it worked well but was pretty expensive and the tubes dried out quickly after opening.
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site