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Providing power to Atlas turnout frogs

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  • Member since
    February 2008
  • 2,360 posts
Providing power to Atlas turnout frogs
Posted by kasskaboose on Tuesday, September 11, 2018 9:50 PM

After doing some research, I read about using 1-72 screws to provide power to Atlas turnout frogs.  How long do I need of 1-72 screws?  MicroMark has a variety pack but I didn't see just 1-72 screws.  HD and Lowes have them starting at 1/4" and found slightly smaller here:

https://www.microfasteners.com/search.php?mode=search&page=1&keep_https=yes

Is this how to attach/wire the screws: Tap a hole underneath the frog, insert the screw, and then run a wire from the screw to a buss?

Thanks! 

  • Member since
    December 2015
  • From: Shenandoah Valley
  • 9,094 posts
Posted by BigDaddy on Tuesday, September 11, 2018 10:40 PM

kasskaboose
and then run a wire from the screw to a buss?

:eek:  You've decided not to use a snap relay or frog juicer, but go right to the buss?  I hope that's a typo.

You want brass screws.  Since you are putting them in from underneath, an extra 1/8" won't matter as long as you don't screw it from the bottom right out through the top of the frog.  As you only need 4, get them from the nearest store and save postage and buying a pack of 50 that you will never use.

 

 

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

Shenandoah Valley

  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Collinwood, Ohio, USA
  • 16,367 posts
Posted by gmpullman on Wednesday, September 12, 2018 6:04 AM

BigDaddy
kasskaboose and then run a wire from the screw to a buss?   You've decided not to use a snap relay or frog juicer, but go right to the buss?  I hope that's a typo.

Me too!

https://dccwiki.com/Turnout

The frog has to be switched electrically with each throw of the points.

Good Luck,

Ed

  • Member since
    February 2008
  • 2,360 posts
Posted by kasskaboose on Wednesday, September 12, 2018 12:21 PM

To clarify,  I'm hoping to wire to the buss to get power to the side of the turnout for the mainline now and later put in the switch machine to handle the diverging track for a siding. Do I solder the wire to the nail and then the buss? 

The turnouts are Atlas #4, 6, and 8.  I have six-axle locos now but will get four-axle ones soon, so need the continued power.

~Lee

  • Member since
    January 2001
  • From: SE Minnesota
  • 6,847 posts
Posted by jrbernier on Wednesday, September 12, 2018 1:02 PM

Lee,

  Do not hard wire the frog to the mainline - you will get a direct short when your engine takes the divirging route as it bridges the gap!  You really need some kind of electrical switch like the Snap Relay or a Frog Juicer(my choice).

  As far as 1-72 screws, I got mine over the Internet(cheaper).  It will be helpful to tap the holes with a 1-72 tap to cut threads in the holes...

Modeling BNSF  and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin

  • Member since
    December 2015
  • From: Shenandoah Valley
  • 9,094 posts
Posted by BigDaddy on Wednesday, September 12, 2018 1:51 PM

kasskaboose

To clarify,  I'm hoping to wire to the buss to get power to the side of the turnout for the mainline now and later put in the switch machine to handle the diverging track for a siding.

How to set up the wiring with a brass screw and switch machine?

It’s not for us to tell you what you want, but it’s a strange way of doing things.  

You can’t expect everyone who reads this thread to know about your several previous threads on this same issue.  

I forget what engines you have but they were not short 2 axle engines, stalled on your #6 turnouts.  

You can wire your frog to the appropriate mainline buss and use the turnout only as a straight piece of track for reasons stated above.  That should solve your stalling problem.  

You need a pin vise to drill a pilot hole for a 1-72 and a tap. The tap can also fit in the pin vise. 

When you ask how to wire the switch machine, it matters which switch machine.  That was covered in your last thread

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

Shenandoah Valley

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