DCC Layout Wiring Plan: sanity check pls

[kasskaboose]

Unlike my 1st layout, the 2nd one won't require conversion from DC to DCC.  Excellent! I've read a bit online, yet remain confused about the wisest ways of wiring for DCC.  Here's what I plan on doing and welcome the feedback:

1. Soldering only the connectors on curved track;

2. Putting feeder wires about every 4' apart except for turnouts (see below) on the side of the ME code 83 flex track;

3. From what some wrote, I plan on putting pairs of feeder wires for the Atlas customline turnouts in three places: on the outside of the stock rails of the diverging rails (1), straight rails (2) and the entrance to the turnout (3);

4.  Worry about Tortoise switches later as finances recharge;

5. Worry about getting more power panels  and power districts later.  How many of each would I need?  For the former, prob 3 on a 12x14' layout in HO.  The latter probably two--one for the mainline and another the yard.  Again, something for once I get the mainline working well;

FYI: I have the NCE starter power cab and plan on using it again. That should work for this layout to handle three consits.

Thanks!

[wjstix]

Depends what you mean by 'power panels and power districts'. If you mean power boosters, you should only need one for a layout that size. You probably will want to have the layout divided into a few separate blocks (like reverse loop(s) for example), but it doesn't have be anything more complicated than an Atlas Selector or two. Otherwise, it's no different from DC except you don't need numerous blocks to run more than one train. You'd still need power connections to the track at the same intervals that would work for you in DC, or choosing to solder joiners or not. 

[hon30critter]

You can power the Atlas Customline turnouts with just two feeders (three if you want to power the frog) and two jumper wires. You can also extend the jumpers to give bullet proof power to the point rails as well. Adding jumpers to the point rails guarantees that you will never suffer from poor contacts between the point rails and the stock rails as the turnout ages over time. Losing connectivity to the point rails is not a huge problem but it does happen.

The method is described here:

http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm

Whether adding the jumpers instead of two additional sets of feeders is more work or less work depends on your point of view, but I'm of the opinion that only having to solder one set of feeders under the layout (per turnout) is better than having to solder three sets of feeders under the layout. The jumpers can be done at your workbench.

This is a Peco turnout but it shows how to install the jumpers between the stock rails and the closure rails. The other end of the wires are soldered into the bottoms of the point rails (sorry - no picture). You will have to remove some of the tie joiners on the Atlas turnouts to expose the bottoms of the rails:

You do have to remove some of the roadbed were the wires sit below the ties so they can move, but that doesn't take much work. Make sure you don't put ballast glue where the jumpers are or you will be cursing me when you try to throw the turnout!

Note that on the Atlas Customline turnouts you don't need to gap the rails to isolate the frog.

Just another option.

Dave

[MisterBeasley]

Assuming that you plan to eventually power the frogs when you get the switch machines, it will be much easier to add the wires for the frogs themselves and a pair of feeders to connect the track bus to the Tortoise contacts now, so the wires will be there when you are ready.

Figure out where you're going to make the breaks for your power districts, even if you don't buy breakers and/or autoreversers right away.  Again, it's easier to wire them now.  Provide separate track buses for each district, even if you just wire them together for now.

Color code your wiring, and be completely consistent with it, buses and feeders!

[kasskaboose]

Thanks all for the great advice.  The suggestions help reduce some of the mystery of using DCC.  I start to realize that DCC is not too different than DC regarding advanced planning and progressing through the arrangement.   No way will I wire the entire thing without testing.

Having read the two options here, I used the 2nd one on the earlier layout and plan on following it again:  http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches_atlas_roco.htm

The picture shows dropping feeder wires from the points down to the buss wires.  I might use really thin wires to ensure nothing fouls up the switching.  Using the above, can the feeders go after the frog?

[BigDaddy]

kasskaboose

The picture shows dropping feeder wires from the points down to the buss wires.

The description says solder to the rivet, but the picture is a jumper between the point and closure rails.  I've also read of jumpers from the stock rail to the points.  I don't think soldering on the rivet would go well for me.

He says the frog rail (but not the frog itself) and the closure rail are the same piece of metal so those feeders can go either side of the frog.