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DC boost converters for remote DCC operation

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  • Member since
    March 2018
  • 72 posts
DC boost converters for remote DCC operation
Posted by Cymrych79 on Saturday, March 24, 2018 5:16 PM

Hi all, my apologies if this has been answered before.

 

In addition to my main layout, I have a small 2 ft x 4 ft N gauge traveling layout that I take to trains shows, mostly as some "flash" to bring people in the look at the for-sale trees. I've wired it for DCC, and use my Digitrax Zephyr Xtra to run it.

 

My only issue is that most of the time, getting a table with a standard electrical outlet is much too expensive for my needs. So I've been researching a remote power option, similar to what I use for remote telescope operations: 12V auto or motorcycle battery, and a DC-DC converter to get the proper volts.

 

In the case of the Zephyr's power supply, it looks like I need a 12V-13.8V converter that carries at least 3.6 amps. Easy peasy, I can find those on Amazon in the $30-40 range.

 

What I'm having trouble is finding a DC boost converter that puts out the same 3.6 amps as the Zephyr Xtra power supply. Plenty of 5 amp, 15 amp, 25 amp, etc, however. 

 

So, can I just run a resistor in parallel to drop the amps to 3.6? If so, I assume I should look for an equivalent sized plug as the male end of the Zephyr power supply; any one know what size that might be?

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Monday, March 26, 2018 3:00 PM

 Amps aren't "put out" by a power supply, it is a rating for the MOST you can draw. So the 5 amp version shouldbe just about perfect for the Zephyr. The Zephyr will only draw a maximum of 3.6 amps, the convertor won't shove 5 amps into it and fry anything.

 Anything using a car battery - you need fuses. A car battery can supply enough instantaneous current to literally weld metal across the terminals if you short it.  You need a fuse between the battery and converter at the very least - a 5 amp fuse should be good (or resettable circuit breaker). This will protect the converter and the battery (which you should carry in one of the plastic carriers meant for it - often used to house the battery on a bass boat for the electric trolling motor). Ideally, a fuse of 3.6 amps should be on the output of the converter before the Zephyr, but you are probably ok without that one. 

                                            --Randy

 

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: Western, MA
  • 8,571 posts
Posted by richg1998 on Monday, March 26, 2018 4:00 PM

How about a UPS that can supply 120 VAC? They can be bought for about $100 or less from Amazon. Just need to calculate how many VA you need.

I would consider a lithium battery if you want a battery power. No liquid.

Rich

If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.

  • Member since
    March 2018
  • 72 posts
Posted by Cymrych79 on Monday, March 26, 2018 4:46 PM

Thanks Randy and Rich.

 

Give to know about the amps. I thought the Zephyr would only pull 3.6 tops, regardless of the current potential out of the boost converter. 

 

Good advice about the plastic box and fuse. Not coincidentally, I have two such rigs laying around for remote astrophotography. Just have to pick up the proper boost converter and a small inline fuse and I'm good.

 

Rich, I guess I'm not sure what exactly a universal power supply is. I looked at Amazon, but only really inverters. Which I did consider, but going from DC battery to ac just for the Zephyr's ac-dc power cord seemed... inelegant and wasteful. I use SLA batts for my telescope/remote laptop setups, so I don't mind liquid batts. They're just heavy!

 

Thanks again guys. In fairness, I probably won't actually attempt this... just a hunch that it'd probably void any warranty on the Zephyr if I have an issue (although I doubt my purchase warranty is good any more anyway).

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