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Ditch lights not working with Athearn Genesis and LokSound Select

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  • Member since
    June, 2007
  • 58 posts
Ditch lights not working with Athearn Genesis and LokSound Select
Posted by gcri on Sunday, December 24, 2017 11:22 AM

I recently got an Athearn Genesis SD70M (ATH69208) and installed a LokSound Select 8 pin decoder (I removed the 9 pin DC plug).  It was programmed with sound file 73425.  I orded it online so it arrived pre-programmed.  Sound, motor control, etc. work perfectly except the ditch lights will not come on (headlight works fine).  I tested the locomotive on DC (without the decoder installed) and the ditch lights work fine.  Is there any CV that might be set that has disables F6?  I have not changed any CVs (still is set to 3 for the locomotive address) nor have I changed any wiring to the lights as I was going through all the functions after I installed it and found this problem.

I appreciate any suggestions.

  • Member since
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  • From: Reading, PA
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Posted by rrinker on Sunday, December 24, 2017 12:07 PM

 You have to wire the ditch lights individually to aux1 and aux2 on the decoder. AN 8 pin connectin does not have enough wires to run the motor, headlights, AND ditch lights, it only includes wires for the track pickups, motor, and the two headlights.

 A 9 pin decoder would have enough wires, however you still have to change the wiring on the factory board as the DC versions of the locos just have the ditch lights wired to come on with the power.

                                     --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by BigDaddy on Sunday, December 24, 2017 12:14 PM

EDIT I'll take Randy's advice over mine.  Now I know the difference between and 8 and a 9 pin decoder. 

The following is useless if you need to wire the ditch lights in first.

gcri
Is there any CV that might be set that has disables F6?

You want to go to the ESU site and download the Select Manual. 

Page 24 shows the mapping of F6  CV32 is an access CV.  That probably isn't the official term for it, but think of it as an elevator.  It has to get you to the right floor before you get get to the right room.

I always read the CV on the programming track before I change it.  Make Notes!

  • Set CV 32 to 2
  • Set CV 378 to 4

From there you need to read starting on page 30 about Ditch lights and their features and whether you want Type 1 or 2.  I have not personally done this, it is my understanding of the manual, but as I see it.

  • Set CV 32 to 0
  • Set CV 275 to 9
  • Set CV 279 to 147 assuming Athearn ditch lights ARE Leds

Power your system on and off.

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

By the Chesapeake Bay

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  • 58 posts
Posted by gcri on Sunday, December 24, 2017 4:20 PM

I was under the impression that because the 8 pin plug had an AUX1 green cable that it would be able to control the ditch lights as well.  Guess I was mistaken.

Loksound_8

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Posted by gcri on Sunday, December 24, 2017 6:48 PM
So I got it working, the 8 pin decoder does support enough functions, however Athearn's DCC conversion board does not map pin 3 to anything so it is worthless. I had to snip the green wire and solder it directly to the board. I will not try to use an 8 pin decoder in the future with Athearn engines.
  • Member since
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  • From: Reading, PA
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Posted by rrinker on Sunday, December 24, 2017 9:23 PM

 The best option for the Athearns is the Select Direct, you completely remove the Athearn board. The Select Direct supports enough functions for any modern engine, there are plenty for the headlights, the ditch lights, and any potential rotating beacon on the cab roof. 

                                     --Randy


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    June, 2007
  • 58 posts
Posted by gcri on Sunday, December 24, 2017 9:25 PM

This was my first Athearn DCC install, live and learn.  I appreciate the information as I will make sure to do that next time.

  • Member since
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Posted by 5150WS6 on Wednesday, December 27, 2017 4:18 PM

I agree with Randy on this one as I too have learned the hard way.  For all of my locos, Athearn included, I rip out the old board and just start fresh with wiring.  Makes it more tidy in the end. 

And my Loksound programmer makes programming sooooooo much easier in my book too.  Would highly recommend this as it cuts the programming time way down!

Mike

 

  • Member since
    May, 2019
  • 2 posts
Posted by cbuster on Wednesday, May 22, 2019 10:37 AM

gcri
So I got it working, the 8 pin decoder does support enough functions, however Athearn's DCC conversion board does not map pin 3 to anything so it is worthless. I had to snip the green wire and solder it directly to the board. I will not try to use an 8 pin decoder in the future with Athearn engines.

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but can you please show/tell me where on the board you soldered the green wire? I am having a similar issue with the mars light on my F2A.
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Posted by tstage on Wednesday, May 22, 2019 7:33 PM

If the decoder is a Loksound Select then click on the photo in the 4th post above...or here.

Tom

http://www.newyorkcentralmodeling.com

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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Posted by BigDaddy on Thursday, May 23, 2019 7:44 AM

I'll bet Cbuster doesn't have a 2nd generation loksound.

Mine looks like this https://tinyurl.com/y4fy4azl   and the green would have to go to one of the common pads

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

By the Chesapeake Bay

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Posted by tstage on Thursday, May 23, 2019 11:58 AM

If the OP downloads the Loksound Select manual from the ESU website, both diagram versions will be listed.

Tom

http://www.newyorkcentralmodeling.com

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

  • Member since
    May, 2019
  • 2 posts
Posted by cbuster on Thursday, May 23, 2019 1:33 PM
I am using a Loksound Select v4 via the 8 pin connector into the original Genesis light board. I was hoping to be able to remove the green wire from the 8 pin connector and solder it directly to the light board there by implementing the already present resistors. I can then use AUX1 to light the mars, or whatever it is, light above the headlight on my ACL F2A. The bulbs for this light, one clear, one red, are currently attached to the light board via connectors labeled FOF-N and FOF-P. I am not ready to replace everything with LEDs at this point. I hope my description makes sense.

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