Hello all,
Years ago my father setup a model train for me, which eventually went the way of the dodo. Now, 40 years later, I have a son that is all about model trains. I've been building him a train set for christmas, but things have changed quite a bit in 40 years.
The layout is pretty basic....basically a loop with some sidings. I've got an NCE power cab setup and it works just fine. My question is how do i get power to the switches to throw them? I don't want to get crazy with adding switch machines and programming them into the D.C. Controller. I just simply want to use the old school switch switches that come with remote atlas snap switches. I'm assuming wiring the snap switch to the track bus will fry them.
Any suggestions?
Thasks in advance.
There are several ways to wire Atlas snap switch coils.
Since this is for your son, it is best to use the switch machines and push buttons designed by atlas. I think that they look stupid, but for a kid just learning electricity they are a very simple visual setup that he can understand and learn.
DO NOT CONNECT THE SWITCHES TO THE TRACK! DCC is a whole different breed of animal than what YOU are used to.
Atlas switches run best on maybe the 16v AC Aux terminals on your power supply. Of course they will work on DC too without any problem.
BE CAREFUL of the ATLAS SWITCH BUTTONS, they can be pressed by a book or something that is set on top of them, in which case the motors will burn up. Be sure that your son knows to see that the push button returns to the off position once the switch is thrown.
NEXT ISSUE IS that the Atlas turnouts power both sides of the turnout, so you cannot park a train there without isolating the siding with another switch of some sort, but since you will be using DCC this is a moot point.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
You can wire your turnouts to run either way, with DCC or without. For simplicity, I would do it the old-fashioned way, with single-pole, double-throw toggles like the ones Atlas provides.
Get a capacitive discharge circuit, though, like the Snapper made by Circuitron. This circuit gives you a better electrical pulse and a more solid, secure throw of he machines, particularly out some distance from your power supply. It also limits the current flow after throwing the switch to protect the switch machine in case a control button sticks.
I don't like the Atlas buttons for that reason. I've had them stick and burn out machines. I prefer a simple single-pole, single-throw, center-off, momentary-contact toggle. These allow you to create a better control panel with a schematic of your layout and the toggles in place where the turnouts are.
You can use the Atlas pushbuttons for now, as long as you get a CD circuit to protect your machines.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Peco makes what they call a "Passing Contact Switch", model PPCPL26W/B/R/Y. The W, B, R, and Y at the end of the number designates the COLOR of the lever (white, black, red, yellow). This switch looks and operates like a regular toggle switch except, when thrown up or down, it shoots only a momentary jolt to the turnout coils. I've seen them sell for arount $7.00 each. All you do is flip them up or down...simple as that, and you can simply look at the position of the switch to tell what position the turnout is in. They even make a control "box" that holds three in a row (or more), or you can take a thin plate of metal, plastic, etc, cut small rectangular holes for the switches (they snap in) and mount as many as you need. They've been working perfectly for me for years. Shame I didn't know about them BEFORE I burned up a bunch of tunout motors using the Atlas switches...
Mike C.
I forgot to mention that I power my turnouts wit a simple ac transformer that I got from Radio Shack about 17 years ago...CHEAP. I think it can be describes as a simple AC "step down" transformer that drops wall current (110-120 volts AC) down to around 15 volts AC. All you do is wire a cord with a wall plug on the end to one side, and all your turn-outs to the other. Mine will throw up to four switches at once (crossovers, power-routing relays, etc). I'm sure you can find this stuff at Amazon nowadays... if you don't ever want to throw more than one switch/relay at a time, any cheap "train set" power pack usually has AC outputs for powering accessories, but the AC transformer is probably cheaper (if you can build your own)
Thanks everyone! I've sort of have idea of what I need to do now.
I REALLY hope you put a fuse in the AC line side, and have the contacts well protected. Technically there should be a fuse on the low side as well.
Automatic shutoff contacts or not, a capacitor discharge unit is significantly better at solenoid switch machines than a plain transformer. And cheap.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
While the setup I have has been been working very well for about 15years, I'm very interested in the "fuse" idea. The only times I have ever burned up switch coils is when the original Atlas "slide and push" switches would "stick" long enough to fry the coils. Luckily, the damage was limited to melting the cover a bit and separating usually just one TINY wire, which I could repair. I have actually repaired 9 out of 10 damaged point motors. HOWEVER if I had a FUSE in line, I could have avoided a lot of this. Could you recommend what amperage fuse I could use? Should I fuse BOTH legs coming off the transformer? Also, some of my switches engage TWO point motors, and two frog powering relays, at the same time. I wonder should I inline fuse each point motor individually? I can say that so far I haven't damaged any motors using the Peco toggle switches.
Another advantage of having a CDU ( Mine came from Minatroics) is the snap sound is pleasing The monentary surge is about 18 - 20 volts and is extremely reliable.
Joe Staten Island West
wobblinwheelShould I fuse BOTH legs coming off the transformer? Also, some of my switches engage TWO point motors, and two frog powering relays, at the same time. I wonder should I inline fuse each point motor individually? I can say that so far I haven't damaged any motors using the Peco toggle switches.
ON RAILROAR of LION, all transformers (I have five of them) all have the negative side bound together to a common HARD GROUND, (Grounded to the building's electrical ground system -- Failure to to this will put stry voltages where none are intended)
Only the - side of each transformer is grounded so that I have several lines of different voltages and amperages available to me, but only one ground bus circling the layout. One transformer is wired + to ground so that I have negative power for tortoises via the interlocking machine.
LION has a block of fuses not unlike your automobile fuses... well actually they *ARE* automobile fuses. But if one blows, I do not keep replacing it until all of my fuses are gone. No. I put an old pickup truck tail light across the fuse holder. If there is a short the lite comes on, when I have fixed the short, the light goes out and the ciircuit resumes operation. Then I can pull tha lamp out and replace the fuse.
You might want to look at the NCE snap-it accessory decoder it will allow you to activate the switch machine from the power cab or a seperate push button. It is also designed to to only give a quick signal thus preventig a coil melt down. The cost is 19.95 from NCE.
good luck Dan
ANOTHER WAY toe wire an Atlas twin-coil, using only one conductor and a ground (compatible with Tortise machines, except requires a momentary switch is...
Be careful which terminal on the twin coil is ground, I think my drawing is wrong. Maybe grund should be on the middle terminal.
[quote user="DanO22"]
Mike
The snap-it is for one they have a Q-snap for four 69.95 see their site (ncedcc.com) for manuals and more info
Dan