My layout is DC only using 2 selector switches to control 8 blocksI have 2 basic ez command controllers. I just added the second selector switch and 4 more blocks. When the engines is in one of the new blocks it crawls at top speed. Is it time to get a new power pack? The original blocks work fine just the 4 new blocks are having issues. The new blocks are 4 new sidings.Ok the power drops when i turn on a block with the second (newer) selector switch and that is system wide. The new blocks have both rails gapped with the right side rails as common the wires are solder to a common rail in an older block (no bus )Thank you
Out of curiosity, did you use a Word processor to spell check. Sure looks like it. I did that once but quickly corrected it
Take your multimeter and see what voltage you have in each section. Good chance a feeder or track connection has some resistance.
Start at your power pack and work out from there. You will find voltage drop somewhere.
Also, there may be a load somewhere also causing this.
Maybe the first thing to do is disconnect power pack and connect your meter on low ohms to the feed and see if there is a partial short somewhere.
Not sure of your layout.
Divide and conquer.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
You have 8 now 12 blocks on how many switches? When I had a DC layout it was split into 12 blocks each had a DPDT switch and there were 2 reversing loops each with a switch.
Sounds like there may be something crossed. in any case, Rich gave you the procedure To find where the drop is.
Gary
You posted about the same question in the Bachmann forums with this reponse from you.
No its not dcc its the smaller version of the ez command dcc.
What is the model number of the controller are you using?
Bachmann sells the EZ Command DCC controller. Only one type.The other is the Dynamis.
Edit.
As I thought about it. this must be the DC controller which is labeled DCC compatible because it can plug into the EZ Command DCC system to power one DC loco.
kh25 Model: 44211
Ok, this is a DC controller, not a smaller version of the ez command dcc.
Your question confused one person in the other forum. He thinks two Bachmann DCC controllers.
You might also post a photo of the layout.
Did you use a meter for trouble shooting?
No i do not have a meter
Using the process of elimination the problem is with the track itself in the new blocks. The new blocks are 3 straight tracks. The track is the old steel rails with fiber ties and wire clips as spikes. The rest of the layout is nickle silver..when connecting the block wire to the selector it kills the power to the layout. The 4th block the track is nickle silver and it works fine. So is the 2 rail types incompatible? The wire is copper.
Hello all,
What scale are you modeling?
Your final post references 3-rail and 2-rail.
How are you wiring your DC blocks; single common or power & common to each block?
If you can answer these questions folks on these forums can help you better.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
His reference to 2 rail is steel vs nickel-silver. I doubt they are that incompatible.
A harbor freight multimeter costs all of $6 without a coupon. I think it's likely a wiring problem, but it's hard to diagnose from afar with a written description of the layout. A diagram would be helpful.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Diagram please. Sounds like wiring to me too. He says he controlling multiple blocks with one switch to 4 or more. Not sure why.
Hello there
This issue has come up before and I wrote a couple of papers that may be of use to you
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=14884&forum_id=9
and
http://yourmodelrailway.net/attachment.php?id=1560
Simply download these and apply the techniques to your layout. If you do have steel track, you will have issues with voltage drop compared to Nickel Silver track or you could have 1 wire to your sidings crossed and the voltage is "working against itself" because of high resistance... see how you go!
Regards from Australia
Trevor
This issue has come up before and I wrote a couple of papers in another forum that may be of use to you
gdelmoro
He says he is using selector switches. I'm assuming he is talking about the Atlas Selectors, which have four individual spst switches built into one unit. Makes his math on switches to blocks work out. Of course, we may never know without a diagram.
Mike
You really should have a meter. Just about any low cost voltmeter will suffice.
Now even with no meter the very first thing I would do is to disconnect all four wires from the new selector. Now check the connection between your old selector and the new one. Assuming that they are connected together using the built in terminals, this should be rather simple.
Next, connect new common wire to the commen rail of one of your new tracks. Next connect the other rail of that same track to your selector. Now turn the track power on and test that one track. If the speed is right, do the same with each of the other new tracks.
If the speed is not right, increase the size of your wires to these tracks.
Martin Myers
Troubleshooting an electrical issue on a layout with no meter can be a challange. Below are a couple links on using a cheap meter. I have four of the Harbor Freight meters. Cheap does not mean they are no good. I started with meters in 1953 and have come up thought the ranks. These meters are probably all made in China by the same company and sold with different colors or front design.
Harbor Freight stores are all around.I paid around $2.00 each a few years ago.
Big box stores sell them.
http://www.trainelectronics.com/Meter_Workshop/index.htm
http://www.trainelectronics.com/Meter_HF/index.htm
Old timers have used a tool that looks like a screwdriver ice pick fron Auto Zone. It has a wire and clip on one end. Connect to power back with no load. Look at the brightness in the handle and probe down the track. When brightness starts to dim, you have a heavy load somewhere or a defective feeder. You will need a loco on the track for a load. No load, probably the brightness would stay the same. Old school trouble shooting. Still guessing as no idea if a load short somewhere or defective feeders.
You can also use a twelve volt light bulb from a car.
Connect only to power pack. Turn up power pack to near max. with nothing on the track, Then connect the layout. Light does not dim, most probably you do not have a short.
If it dim's some, a load.
Does not dim, turn pack down and run a loco. Connect bulb at powere pack. When loco slows down, connect the bulb at that point and see what the bulb looks like compared to at the power pack. That will tell you there is a votage drop somewhere in the layout. Actually the loco woill tell you that.Move along the track with the bulb until it gets brighter.
Basic troubleshooting without a meter.
kh25 The new blocks have both rails gapped with the right side rails as common the wires are solder to a common rail in an older block (no bus ) Thank you
Sounds to Me after reading this last sentence...that more than likely He has His common and hot wires crossed going into the selector. It will not show up as a short...but a voltage drain. Should not be that hard to find.............
Take Care!
Frank
zstripe kh25 The new blocks have both rails gapped with the right side rails as common the wires are solder to a common rail in an older block (no bus ) Thank you Sounds to Me after reading this last sentence...that more than likely He has His common and hot wires crossed going into the selector. It will not show up as a short...but a voltage drain. Should not be that hard to find............. Take Care! Frank
What he said