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how to use alternating current without a power pack

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how to use alternating current without a power pack
Posted by nscsx on Wednesday, May 31, 2017 6:19 AM

I have some Atlas switch machaines on my DCC layout (I use a hand held power cab) that will require an A/C connection to throw them.(and some lighting on the layout later on) I don't want a DC power pack laying around just to use the A/C connection on the back. This may seem so obvious to electrical savy people, but how else can this be accomplished?

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Posted by 7j43k on Wednesday, May 31, 2017 10:54 AM

If you want low voltage AC, you want a transformer.

Used to be, I could go to my very local hobby shop (Lee's Train Service) and buy a used Lionel for a few bucks.  That way, I got a "dimmer".

Now, I'd probably just go online.  I see a lot of doorbell transformers.  I see one that's plug in, outputs 16.5V and 45 watts.  About $15.

To pick out one, you need the input voltage (probably 120V) and the output voltage.  You also need the total wattage.  You can always go larger--never smaller.  The output voltage will probably not be variable, like on the Lionel.

With a Lionel, the voltage is variable.  It very likely will go OVER your needed voltage if you set it wrong.  So would have to be very careful.  And probably use a voltmeter.  And not accidentally nudge the handle.

 

Ed

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Posted by richg1998 on Wednesday, May 31, 2017 3:54 PM

No way you can avoid a power pack. Even a transformer will be the size of a power pack. Look for a wall wart.

Send the AC to a Circuitron Snapper. That device will activate a twin coil turnout quite well. 25 volts max.

You can feed DC into it also but the full wave bridge rectifier in the Circuitron drops the voltage 1.4 volts. With the circuitron, you will never burn out a twin coil if the switch contacts don't release. Been in model railroading for many years and that sometimes happened to a few before CDU's became available.

http://www.circuitron.com/index_files/ins/800-5303ins.pdf

Rich

If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.

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Posted by Bayfield Transfer Railway on Wednesday, May 31, 2017 5:31 PM

You don't need AC, DC will work quite fine on Atlas switch machines.

Considering old power packs run $5 to $10 at most flea markets I've been to, that may well be your cheapest and easiest solution.  Note that these are the small "train set" power packs, and I wouldn't do anything else with them other than run your switch machines.

 

Disclaimer:  This post may contain humor, sarcasm, and/or flatulence.

Michael Mornard

Bringing the North Woods to South Dakota!

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Posted by Mark R. on Wednesday, May 31, 2017 8:02 PM

Get an old laptop power supply. On ebay they can be found for $10 or less in a variety of voltages and usually at current rating more than you will ever need. Plus it is a regulated, clean voltage supply - unlike most "wall warts".

Mark. 

¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ

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Posted by RDG1519 on Saturday, June 17, 2017 7:37 AM

Both Kadee and Walthers make a wall wart that delivers 18 to 19 VAC.

The Walthers is the one they have for their traffic lights and grade crossings.

Chris

Great grandson of John Kiefer, Engineman Philadelphia and Reading Railroad, 1893 to 1932
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Posted by MisterBeasley on Saturday, June 17, 2017 2:04 PM

I have a number of 4 and 5 amp 12 volt DC power supplies I got for a few dollars from China with free shipping.  They work fine.

They don't have breakers, so I have Radio Shack fuse blocks and fuses to protect them from shorts and overloads.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

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Posted by SouthPenn on Saturday, June 17, 2017 9:11 PM

My Atlas switch machines are powered from the track which is DCC. I use an NCE Snap-it as the interface and to control the switch from my hand held DCC controller.

South Penn

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