reverser placement

[wickman]

So I've been a bit busy with work and stuff but have managed to get the rail down and I'm presently  doing test   runs  to check integrity of the track and so far so good. The trackplan posted is an accurate depiction of the layout. After  running the train   for a bit and a couple of comments from the wife saying "  Doesn't  the  train run in the other direction", I've come to the conclusion that even though there  will be a turntable, I think I would like to add a couple reverse  tracks as well as auto turnout changers.

 I have both a couple Tortoise  Hares and DCC  Specialties OGAR auto Reversers.

 

 

 

I  have a couple ideas where the reverse rails can go version 1

 

 

One other thought I had was I have this double turnout which I have never used before if this may also work  to have the reverse tracks up top, version 2? I have never used this type of turnout before and I'm not even sure why I had ordered it years back so know nothing of how it could be used.

 

 

 

Thoughts please on this ? Ideas?

Thanks

Lynn

[DigitalGriffin]

Issue 1: auto reverser: isolate where the blue lines are and you are set with 1 auto reverser.

Issue 2: The double slip.  

You could put it in there at the top.  But what purpose would it serve?  Why would you exit a track just to rejoin it quickly there after?  It really doesn't make sense as a passing siding.  

Double slips are used where space is a premium like a yard with multiple tracks.

A simple crossing would make more sense.  And the wiring would be a lot more simple.  Those double slips can be a handful.

[wickman]

Thanks, I figured the double   slip would be a bit complicated.

Would there  be any rules  about how long the train could  be  when  a  train goes into  the reverse section  and  its last car possibly being still  in the section its exiting?

[DigitalGriffin]

Your shortest section is between the two isolators on the right.  That said, unless you have rolling stock which might bridge the gap for a period of time, (ie: Lighted passenger, or any lighted car) you should still be okay.   Just stagger the gaps between the left and right rail a little.  (A inch or two should do it.)

[wickman]

DigitalGriffin

Your shortest section is between the two isolators on the right.  That said, unless you have rolling stock which might bridge the gap for a period of time, (ie: Lighted passenger, or any lighted car) you should still be okay.   Just stagger the gaps between the left and right rail a little.  (A inch or two should do it.)

 

Thanks , would it make a difference if I reversed the reverse  sections like this ?

The top  is  no issue where as on the right side reverse track I may have more room to  play with.

[carl425]

I'd do it like this:

 

Wire the center of the layout as the reversing section.  This way will also handle the reversing requirement when you come off the turntable.

[DigitalGriffin]

I'll second Carl's alternative layout option.  Both will work.  Even though it's more sections, his might be better because it allows a longer length overall without the limitations of my chosen sections.

 

[wickman]

W

carl425

I'd do it like this:

 

Wire the center of the layout as the reversing section.  This way will also handle the reversing requirement when you come off the turntable.

 

Would the top reverse rail need to be long or can it be short  as well like  the reverse rail by the turntable?I have room up top to make it long  or short. 

Does it matter where the modules are wired too?

Thanks

[carl425]

wickman

Would the top reverse rail need to be long or can it be short  as well like  the reverse rail by the turntable?I have room up top to make it long  or short.

It wouldn't matter.

wickman

Does it matter where the modules are wired too?

You would only need one reverse module.  It would supply the power to everything in the center section of the layout including the tracks to the turntable.

[wickman]

carl425

 

 

wickman

Would the top reverse rail need to be long or can it be short  as well like  the reverse rail by the turntable?I have room up top to make it long  or short.

 

 

It wouldn't matter.

 

 

wickman

Does it matter where the modules are wired too?

 

 

You would only need one reverse module.  It would supply the power to everything in the center section of the layout including the tracks to the turntable.

 

Thanks Carl , I would like to also use a Hare or a Wabbit  for autothrowing the turnout to complete a  route so the train can continue  on without me having to throw any turnouts. Basicly  throw a turnout going into either reverse rails as the  engine approaches , is there anything else to be  adjusted as far as gapping or reverse loop lengths  or districts to add the Autothrows?

[rrinker]

 There's really nothing to auth throw. You're on or past the turnouts when you cross the gaps at either end of the reversing section, so you don't want those turnouts to change position at that time, it will be right under a train. The auto throw on the Hare is meant to act like the old Lionel turnouts where if you ran in from the wrong side, it would automatically throw the points to prevent derailments. I'm still not sure of the utility of this on a Tortoise switch motor - they are SLOOOOOW by design so you need to trigger it well in advance. Gapping for that will almost certainly interfere with the reverse loop gaps, an alternate might be some other methof of sensing a train approaching the wrong side, like IR detectors. But for that connection on the right - say a train came in from the lower left going to the upper right, but the upper right turnout wasn;t set for the connection. If you senses that right in th emiddle of that piece of track, a Tortoise wouldn't throw fast enough unless the train was crawling along.

 The PSX-AR autoreversers also have an option for auto throw, but here, when you cross the reverse section gaps, your train will almost certainly still be on a turnout, so you don;t want that. The auto throw is good for the basic balloon loop, or a wye, so you can just keep running the train and not worry about lining switches.

                             --Randy

[wickman]

rrinker

 There's really nothing to auth throw. You're on or past the turnouts when you cross the gaps at either end of the reversing section, so you don't want those turnouts to change position at that time, it will be right under a train. The auto throw on the Hare is meant to act like the old Lionel turnouts where if you ran in from the wrong side, it would automatically throw the points to prevent derailments. I'm still not sure of the utility of this on a Tortoise switch motor - they are SLOOOOOW by design so you need to trigger it well in advance. Gapping for that will almost certainly interfere with the reverse loop gaps, an alternate might be some other methof of sensing a train approaching the wrong side, like IR detectors. But for that connection on the right - say a train came in from the lower left going to the upper right, but the upper right turnout wasn;t set for the connection. If you senses that right in th emiddle of that piece of track, a Tortoise wouldn't throw fast enough unless the train was crawling along.

 The PSX-AR autoreversers also have an option for auto throw, but here, when you cross the reverse section gaps, your train will almost certainly still be on a turnout, so you don;t want that. The auto throw is good for the basic balloon loop, or a wye, so you can just keep running the train and not worry about lining switches.

                             --Randy

 

Yes Randy now I remember , the Autothrow was for the loop.

[wickman]

carl425

I'd do it like this:

 

Wire the center of the layout as the reversing section.  This way will also handle the reversing requirement when you come off the turntable.

 

Ok set to start cutting  in the tunouts. Question,  should the gaps be before and after the turnouts exactley  as in shown according to the turnouts?

[carl425]

wickman

Question,  should the gaps be before and after the turnouts exactley  as in shown according to the turnouts?

You'll need to gap both rails on each track at the blue line.

All your feeders to the center section between the gaps need to come from the reverser.

[wickman]

carl425

 

 

wickman

Question,  should the gaps be before and after the turnouts exactley  as in shown according to the turnouts?

 

 

You'll need to gap both rails on each track at the blue line.

All your feeders to the center section between the gaps need to come from the reverser.

 

Carl I just finished adding the rails and gapping the tracks where you said  to put them, I understand just  the area inside the gaps need the autoreverser, how would you wire that up with it being spread over such a large  distance? I have soldered drop feeders for each of the tracks inside the reverse loop area as well so for some reason I can't see bunching them all to the two wires off the reverse module.

Thanks

[carl425]

wickman

I can't see bunching them all to the two wires off the reverse module.

You could run a bus off the reverser and route it around to all the feeders.

[wickman]

carl425

 

 

wickman

I can't see bunching them all to the two wires off the reverse module.

 

 

You could run a bus off the reverser and route it around to all the feeders.

 

carl425

 

 

wickman

I can't see bunching them all to the two wires off the reverse module.

 

 

You could run a bus off the reverser and route it around to all the feeders.

 

carl425

 

 

wickman

I can't see bunching them all to the two wires off the reverse module.

 

 

You could run a bus off the reverser and route it around to all the feeders.

 

Thanks Carl I was thinking the same but wanted to hear  from you.