I have 2 old Atlas F units that a freind and club member gave me. When I say old, I mean from the '70's. I learned that Atlas at one time was manufacturing HO scale locomotives in Austria, and I believe these two locos I have were made there. They are very heavy and have a different motor style than I am used to. But I cleaned them up and got them to run well on my test track and also added a decoder and speaker to them. The sound is very good. But when I went to run them on our large moduler track system, they did not run as they had on my single test track, instead stopping and starting every foot or so. The wheels are clean as is the track. I'm using a hand held wirless throttle and we use a Digitrax system. Some of my club buddies thought I should re-do the motors with new motors as the old Atlas motors don't work well with DCC. Does this sound right? I have new motors that I can replace the old Atlas motors with, but was hoping not to have to do that. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks.
JRP
Judging from the older "yellow box" atlas locos I have, on the bottom of the trucks it should say where it was made.
I have two (made in Austria) that have been changed to DCC, no sound, and they work fine. From what I've seen, if they are made in Japan, they have a better motor, and usually go for more on eBay than the others.
They were also made in Mexico, but I'm not sure if that shows up on the bottom of the trucks.
Mike
EDIT: Actually, now that I think of it, the Mexico assembled locos had the name "tooled" of the bottom of the trucks, pretty crudely if I remember right, and very noticable
My You Tube
Checked the bottom of the trucks and yes, made in Austria.
You shaould always test the stall current on older locomotives to make sure you aren't overloading the decoder's rating. That being said, it really shouldn't be a problem even with older Atlas engines unless there is something wrong with the motor that is causing an excessive current draw .... which could be possible.
I'd pull the decoder and test the stall current of the motor to rule that out first. Your symptoms are indicative of an overheating decoder though.
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
Do a current test for sure, but those "Made in Austria" Atlas locos are made by Roco and the motors are not bad at all. Certainly bettr than the contemporary Athearn Blue Box motors.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Mark R.You shaould always test the stall current on older locomotives to make sure you aren't overloading the decoder's rating
One of my RS Atlas's is a Roco from the 1980's. My stall draw current is .95. Yours may be different.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Digitrax. There's your problem.
Make sure you have the the decoders set to DCC only via CV29. Made a world of difference on my mates layout once I convinced him to try it.
Matthew
bodgybuilder Digitrax. There's your problem.
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Sounds like maybe the same address is selected on more than one throttle, one at stop and one in hand trying to run the loco. Frequent stalls and stops is usually a sign of some poor contact, either rails, wheels, or pickups, but if the loco runs fine on a different test track it's not the wheels or pickups, and if other locos run fine on the layout then it's not likely dirty track. That leaves throttle conflict, and in a club scenario that is all too common, as people go to select their loco 567 and key in 566 and wonder why it doesn't go, then realize the hit the wrong numbers and don't bother properly dispatching the 'wrong' number and just select the right one and happily drive off. Meanwhile, the owner of 566 comes in and puts his loco on the track and selects it but it runs funny and no one can figure out why.
I wonder - do the people who on a regular basis fat-finger the loco address also pick the wrong TV channel on the remote? Because it's the same thing! Everyone hits the wrong key now and then - just look at any of my posts. I'm a good speller, odds are if a word is spelled wrong or an extra character appears it is strictly a typo. But some people are so bad at keying in the loco number, I almost want to make a special throttle permanently set to their address so they never have to select anything again.
All good suggestions, guys. As far as a correct address, we as a club solved that by assigning specific numbers for our locos and consists which has worked well so far, and we use fresh, rechargable batteries in the throttles. I will be doing a current draw test to be sure, but I plan to also replace the 1 amp decoders (Econamy ECO 100) to a 2 amp decoder. I checked with a Soundtraxx tech and he told me even if the loco test is close to or at 1 amp, it would be better to move up to a 2 amp. Price wise the 2 amp Econamy ECO 200 is less than their ECO 100. I'll send results in a few weeks. Thanks everyone for your suggestions and response.
JRP But I cleaned them up and got them to run well on my test track and also added a decoder and speaker to them.
But I cleaned them up and got them to run well on my test track and also added a decoder and speaker to them.
Yes, each loco has it's own decoder and speaker. I also programmed each using JMRI so they would be in a consist and as close in speed as possible.