''LIGHT TROUBLE"

[TrainsRMe1]

Hi all,  I have a problem I hope you can help me with, I'm using model power Led lights for one of my buildings, (or at least I would like to) first I installed a power bus, then I hooked up my lights with a resistor that is (what I thought is 3v) well it really goes with out saying I fried all my lights and resistors, so now I'm using a temp power supply of a 9v battery, I could go this route ,but I think this could get quite exspensive,  what can I do in this matter, thanks guys n gals..Trainsrme

[hon30critter]

Hi Trainsrme:

Can you provide a link to the actual lights that you were using? I couldn't see any reference to Model Power using LEDs but that really doesn't matter. It's the voltage that counts. Every Model Power structure light that I could find was rated for 12 - 16 volts.

The main question is what did you use for a power supply when you blew all the bulbs? I'm a little concerned that if you blew the bulbs AND the resistors then you were using way too much power! Resistors don't normally 'blow'. Usually the lights go out first and then the power stops flowing so nothing happens to the resistors. Are the resistors actually burned?

You say use are now using a 9v battery so that suggests to me that the lights could be rated for 12+ volts but they wouldn't be extremely bright on 9 volts. How bright are they? Are they hard to look at directly or are they more on the softer, warmer side?

If you can give us a bit more information we will be better able to figure out what went wrong.

Dave

[richhotrain]

I agree with Dave that Model Power uses incandescent bulbs exclusively. To my knowledge, Model Power does not use LEDs.

The Model Power Building Lights are all 12-16 volt rated.  Some of the Model Power lights are 3.5 volt and a few are 1.5 volt, but these lower voltage bulbs are not packaged as part of their Building Lights kits.

What are the voltage ratings on the bulbs that you used and what kind of power source were you using when the bulbs burned out?

Rich

[Water Level Route]

Are you using the peel and stick LEDs from Model Power?  I believe the resistor is built into them, so if you added an additional resistor they may not have gotten enough power to light up.

[MisterBeasley]

What size resistor did you use?  I usually start with 1K.  The resistor should be in series with the LED.  Ideally, use 1 resistor for each LED.

LEDs are polarized.  You must connect the wires from your power supply with the correct polarity so that they will work.

How do you know you've blown the LEDs?  If you got one brief, bright flash when you powered them up, then yes, they are now Darkness Emitting Diodes, or DEDs.  I they are simply not working, though, they may be OK but just wired backwards.

[TrainsRMe1]

Hey Guys, HON30CRITTER, Yes, I'm using the Model Power peel n stick LED'S NO. 511-1, 3 volts w/ resistor,12'' Leads, clear LEDS, now, I think I might have found the problem, I uesed an adaptor cord, that could have been a higher voltage than needed for my lights, thinking the resistor would have helped, that could have been the reason for Bar B Quein" my lights, you can look for them @ www.modelrectifier.com, I hope this helps, 

[RR_Mel]

By “Adapter Cord” do you mean Wall Wart?

 

 

 

 

Mel

 

Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

[rrinker]

 What's interesting is that all the reseller sites (like Modeltrainstuiff, Trainworld, etc) say "w/resistor" but ont he actual MRC/Model power site it makes no mention of resistors.

 White LEDs typically need 3-3.5V to work. When powered from a 12V power supply they need about a 1K resistor. This product says 3V, which seems low. What you need to knwo is the voltage they were designed to run on, with the resistor if they have one built in - it will absolkutely be more than 3V. Plain old bulk purchase white LEDs with a 1K resistor on each one will work perfectly on 12-14V DC. The other thing is, a 12V NON-regulated wall wart may well put out close to 18V with a light load - "light" being realtive to the output rating. For example, a 12V unregulated 1amp wall wart driving 15 of these LEDs would definitely qualify as a light load. A REGULATED power supply rated for 12V shoudl be within a few tenths of a volt of the rating from light load to full load. So this issue could be as simple as the LEDs ARE set up for 12V out of the package, but you applied closer to 18V even though the wall wart said 12V on it.

 Also - lesson learned, never hook up EVERYTHING and then test - test as you go. That way you would still have 14 working lights left.

                                 --Randy

 

[hon30critter]

TrainsRMe1

I uesed an adaptor cord, that could have been a higher voltage than needed for my lights,

That would certainly cause problems!

Hope you have sorted things out.

Regards,

Dave

[hon30critter]

TrainsRMe1:

OK, I think I found the LEDs offered by Model Rectifier that you are using:

http://www.modelrectifier.com/product-p/025302.htm

 

There are cheaper alternatives available on eBay:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DD00WM-10pcs-Pre-Wired-WARM-White-SMD-3528-Led-Lamp-Light-Set-12V-18V-NEW-/162133512626?hash=item25bfe911b2:g:xvUAAOSw2zlXhCYl

These are virtually the same thing as what MRC is selling, and they come with resistors installed so they can work on 12 volts. Note the listing is in Canadian dollars so your price should be around $3.50 for 10 LEDs.

For structure interior lighting you might want to consider using flat top LEDs. They spread the light out more evenly, as opposed to most LEDs that project a somewhat narrower beam:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/3V-6V-9V-12V-pre-wired-LED-light-3mm-5mm-0603-SMD-colorful-RGB-20cm-line-/400839427722?var=670393617767&hash=item5d53e4468a:g:L60AAOSwHnFV2uWu

These ones come without resistors. You will have to select the proper colour and quantity:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/10-30-50pcs-Pre-Wired-DC-9-12V-3mm-5mm-Flat-Top-LED-Diodes-White-Red-Green-Light-/201599119542?var=500817880236&hash=item2ef03e70b6:m:mRzHxRXdeKf9qwCFBkPZ_kw

Resistors are dirt cheap:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/100PCS-Resistors-1K-Ohms-OHM-1-4W-5-Carbon-Film-NEW-/201414888250?hash=item2ee5434b3a:g:RfwAAOSwuMFUi5tb

I buy my LEDs in bulk and wire them myself (with the exception of the 0402s which are so small they disappear in plain sight if you don't keep track of where you put them on the workbench). I use a 12 volt power supply and install a minimum 1K (1000 ohm) resistor in series with each LED. If you want a softer light, like a table lamp for example, you can go as high as 30,000 ohms.

Dave

[TrainsRMe1]

Thanks guys,   I glad to say that I have saved 5 of my LED'S from the evil adaptor, my next step is to buy an actual 12 volt adaptor, but some 1K resistors, rebuild my power bus for this project and go from there, thanks again for you help , I will post pictures when I'm done. Thanks Again

[MisterBeasley]

Get yourself a decent 12 volt power supply.  I bought my last one from China on Amazon or eBay.  It was about $8, including shipping, and will handle 5 amps.  You can get 1 amp wall warts, but you will end up needing a lot of them and then you'll need multiple outlet strips, too.

Run a 12 VDC power bus along your layout and just tap into it when you need to.  Use different colored wire than your track bus.  For mine, I put panel switches on the bus lines so I can control them separately and not have them running all the time.

[rixflix]

I am using MRC/Model Power 511-1 LEDw/resistor lights in series on my 16VAC accessory circuit. The 10 lamps in my G gauge enginehouse are working just fine. The 2 Piko 62091 exterior lights are in the same circuit.

Rick