Found my old Troller trans cab walkaround throttle. After searching this forum, I learned how to hook it up. I used the 16V AC output of my MRC throttle.
My DC output, at one point, was 5 volts. Nothing would run. Another time, when I clipped one lead to the track, the loco would operate in only one direction then not run when both leads were clipped to track. Hooked it up to a test track and nothing worked.
The track voltage light comes on when the throttle is turned. I get variable DC output on the multimeter. From 4 volts to 10 volts.
I am assuming the throttle is bad since the hook up is simple. The MRC powerpack is an old Trainmaster. AC output seems to be steady everytime I checked.
I don't need a walkaround cab sinced I have a 2 x 10 switching layout but I loved that old throttle cab.
Is it a lost cause?
Pat Bandy
Ignatosky,
What color are the wires on the Troller?
If they are two red's and grn & white.....two red's are AC, grn & white are variable DC out. Put reversing switch to left, hook up grn wire to right rail, white to left. Voltage light should get brighter as Throttle is advanced. Works best on 18vac @1 amp.
Also You are not using a coreless motored engine to test are You?
See what happens then!
Take Care!
Frank
I Googled the controller and zstripe is correct.
At least 16vac from a couple links I saw.
Love those old pulse power packs.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
zstripe Ignatosky, What color are the wires on the Troller? If they are two red's and grn & white.....two red's are AC, grn & white are variable DC out. Put reversing switch to left, hook up grn wire to right rail, white to left. Voltage light should get brighter as Throttle is advanced. Works best on 18vac @1 amp. Also You are not using a coreless motored engine to test are You? See what happens then! Take Care! Frank
Yes, two red and green and white. 16vac not sure of the amp. Two red to 16vac.
Used a old blue box Atheran GP9 and a new Bachman GP38. Not coreless.
Will have to hunt for a 18vac power supply. 5vdc output doesn't move anything. You think I will get a higher output with 18vac? Seems I would but not by much.
One more thing. Searched Amazon for a AC power supply. Seems everything is DC output. Do they even make a stand alone AC output power supply?
What does your meter show for the 16vac input?
A full wave bridge will only drop 1.4 volts. If you have 16vac, time for some trouble shooting the pack.
I was wrong in my earlier post. Using an old MRC Controlmaster X not Trainmaster. Don't know where I got that.
Ok, printed output on Trainmaster pack is 19VAC 1.3amps. Metered output is 16VAC. That could be the problem.
I just ordered a MRC Railpower 1300 for the AC output rated at 19VAC. Plus I don't know how much longer the Controlmaster will last and I don't need much for train control.
The Contolmaster is 35 years old and I'm just happy it still works. I know I don't put out as much as I did when I was younger!
If the AC is still 16 volts with a loco on the track, I seriously doubt higher voltage will help. What is the DC current load from the loco?
If 16 vac and nothing on the track, must be defective pack. Assume no short on the track. Just in case, remove pack, check for short on layout with ohm meter.
If You have the wires hooked up the way I said....two red to 16VAC /18VAC ACC. out at least rated at 1amp. and the other grn & white to track, the moment You turn the throttle, voltage light should come on and loco should start to move...the higher the throttle setting, the brighter the light. If it does not work that way and You need to turn the throttle way up to get it to move and it works erratic when doing it...the Autopulse circuit that is in the controller is bad...that was the number one problem with those Troller Autopulse Throttles. I had one! Also have a MRC Tech II hand held, with direction, Momentum and brake, which is a little larger than the Troller and it's still works to this day....I had that wired with a 36vac/18vac 3 amp transformer and that was not even filtered and it still worked great. The power supply You use should be solely for the throttle and nothing else.
I now use three MRC CM 20's, the newer version without fan and their hand held's for the past 28yrs and had no problem's at all...just had to replace a power cord on one hand held...found out from experience, that was one of the number one reason's why the hand held failed...it was the cord. I only use the MRC's to control trains...along with a amp meter & volt meter, that they have a output for built-in and nothing else.
Still a DC user, but will run DCC with sound loco's occasionally...can live without it...at 74 this year, I am not about to switch to DCC...
If it ain't broke...don't fix it! LOL
You should also have an overload indicator light on the throttle, should not be on under normal use...it is a short indicator for layout and the controller. When it comes on...You either have a short on layout, in which case, You disconnect track wires from unit, find and fix short, unplug unit from power and plug back in, if everything is fine, light will go out. If light does not go out with wires removed from layout, somethings wrong with the unit...
zstripe If You have the wires hooked up the way I said....two red to 16VAC /18VAC ACC. out at least rated at 1amp. and the other grn & white to track, the moment You turn the throttle, voltage light should come on and loco should start to move...the higher the throttle setting, the brighter the light. If it does not work that way and You need to turn the throttle way up to get it to move and it works erratic when doing it...the Autopulse circuit that is in the controller is bad...that was the number one problem with those Troller Autopulse Throttles. I had one! Also have a MRC Tech II hand held, with direction, Momentum and brake, which is a little larger than the Troller and it's still works to this day....I had that wired with a 36vac/18vac 3 amp transformer and that was not even filtered and it still worked great. The power supply You use should be solely for the throttle and nothing else. I now use three MRC CM 20's, the newer version without fan and their hand held's for the past 28yrs and had no problem's at all...just had to replace a power cord on one hand held...found out from experience, that was one of the number one reason's why the hand held failed...it was the cord. I only use the MRC's to control trains...along with a amp meter & volt meter, that they have a output for built-in and nothing else. Still a DC user, but will run DCC with sound loco's occasionally...can live without it...at 74 this year, I am not about to switch to DCC... If it ain't broke...don't fix it! LOL You should also have an overload indicator light on the throttle, should not be on under normal use...it is a short indicator for layout and the controller. When it comes on...You either have a short on layout, in which case, You disconnect track wires from unit, find and fix short, unplug unit from power and plug back in, if everything is fine, light will go out. If light does not go out with wires removed from layout, somethings wrong with the unit... Take Care! Frank
Wow thank you Frank. Track voltage light works as you describe. Overload light does not come on at all.
This is what I did yesterday.
I tested it on the layout with the Controlmaster throttle hooked up to layout thru the DC outputs and used it's AC outputs for the Troller. With the throttle to zero on the Contolmaster, as soon as I touched one of the Troller's leads to the track, the loco started moving since I had the throttle up on the Troller. I could control the speed with the troller but direction would not work. When I hooked up both leads, nothing moved. No overload light on either pack.
Used a piece of test track. Nothing worked. AC power still from the Controlmaster. Test track was seperate from the layout.
Will test the cord on the Troller today. My very first throttle I bought years ago doesn't work as a throttle anymore but the AC outputs may work. I will test that today too.
I don't think it's the cord since I was seeing some DC output on the multimeter. I thought a short in the cord would trigger the overload light.
I studied electronics in Votech but this one has me stumped.
IgnatoskyI tested it on the layout with the Controlmaster throttle hooked up to layout thru the DC outputs and used it's AC outputs for the Troller.
Do You have them both hooked up to the DC track power at the same time?.....You should not have any other DC output wires connected to the track, except the two output wires from the Troller. You should only be using the two AC accessary outputs from the power pack to the red wires on the Troller...the other two wires from the Troller go to the track and nothing else.
A suggestion: Pick up a can of CRC 2-26 Electrical cleaner/lube, make sure it has the added small knozzle and squirt some in the reversing switch, working it back and forth while doing it and all other switches on the Troller... that will help with any electrical contact inside switches and pots. It is plastic compatible, so not to worry about damaging anything. Contacts do get dirty just sitting around, due to oxidation and inhibit Electrical contact. Then do Your test.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-2-26-5-oz-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-02004/100398344?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal1_rr
Good Luck!
Also one more thing I keep forgetting to ask You....Your layout...is it wired for Common Rail, one rail insulated, with block control? If so, make sure You do Your test of the Troller on a separate piece of track, like flex track...if It works...will get back to the other part.
My layout is not yet wired for block control but will be soon. Just received the Railpower 1300. Will set the Troller on a piece of flex track and use the 1300 as a power source. I hope to do this today. Do you think RailZip would work in the Troller. It cleans and improves electrical contact on the track. Perhaps a few drops in the Troller direction switch would help?
IgnatoskyDo you think RailZip would work in the Troller.
I wouldn't use anything but the CRC 2-26 for that. It's under pressure and using the small nozzle, You have a better chance of doing a better job and it does a better job. It was made for that.
I don't care for Rail-zip...stopped using that 30yrs. ago, for anything. I believe the CRC costs less too! I used to repair TV's, tuner Amps and CB radio's for yrs. But that's another story..LOL.
Well, I am defeated. Test track, 19 VAC input only 6 VDC output from the Troller. What I don't understand is the track voltage lights and gets brighter as I turn the throttle. Seems it's working fine. Perhaps the cable is bad but the Troller is sealed with rivets and I could crack it open but would it be worth the time? I don't what readings to look for on the multimeter when testing from the plug end. Wouldn't the track voltage light not work if there was a short in the cable? If a wire in the cable is broken I shouldn't see any output, I think.
Sorry for all the questions. I'm frustrated.
Sorry to say.....the Voltage Regulator in the circuit has more than likely gone South...(died). Unfortunately to repair would be on the iffy side, without not knowing all the input/output spec's of the circuit. More than likely, it is the Autopulse circuit that caused it, which You can't turn off, like MRC's pulse feature on their throttle's. I've read and heard, that problem greatly contributed to Troller's downfall, but don't know positively, about that matter.
If there was a short anywhere cable/unit the overload light would stay on, as long as You had power to the AC input. You can say that the DC output is half working, eventually it too will stop.
Good Luck, in Your next move!
Thank you Frank