DCC beginner

[B & O Bob]

I am a 73 year old beginner.  Been buying stuff for many years, finally getting started.  I will be using the MRC system.  How do I know which decoder to purchase?  Where do I get this information?  For example, I have a very old Roundhouse Shay kit (I love geared locomotives).  When I build it I want to add DCC.  Since I am obviously much older than most of you all, and getting a late start at this I would appreciate your help.  Thanks

[richg1998]

The Internet has everything we need. Find it is the challenge.

Most decoders are limited to one amp. Motor and lighting current.

Motor contacts have to be completely isolated from the pickups in older locos. Very easy to smoke a decoder if the DCC connects to the motor leads.

If new to DCC, there will be a learning curve. Don't make assumptions with DCC. We have no idea of your experince.

I am 75 but have been doing model railroading since 1950.

http://www.wiringfordcc.com/intro2dcc.htm

Rich

[SouthPenn]

Most decoder manufacturers have a chart to tell you which decoder fits what engine.

NCE    TCS   Plus all the sound decoders. 

Most also have a help line you can call. 

 

[richg1998]

The Roundhouse Shay and Climax are very difficult to get running well on DC. DCC wil not help.

I have seen a number of discussions in the Yahoo mdc roundhouse Group.

Thos loco's have an open frame motor also.

I have a Roundhouse boxcab with open frame motor with a decoder but very noisy.

Rich

[RR_Mel]

I think if we listed our ages it would surprise you, most of us are old as dirt.

 

I too like the MDC Shays, I have 5 of them.  I only have one with a decoder installed and it’s a three truck.  I remotored the Shay using a Philips 9904-1836, it was a tight fit and way over powered for a Shay.  The decoder is an old MRC Steam Brilliance and the Shay runs and sounds great.

 

Rich is right about the MDC Shays being troublesome.  I wouldn’t put a decoder in a MDC Shay until it runs flawlessly.  Bowser still sells the full insolating brush mounting plate for the Pittman DC-71 motors supplied with the older MDC Shays (Pre 1990), the can motors supplied after 1990 will work nicely on a DCC decoder. I have two that came with can motors.

 

I wouldn’t recommend using the DC-71 motor on a decoder, the current is marginally on the high side with a DC-71 motor.  I have used 1½ amp decoders with the DC-71 motors without any problems.  My MDC DC-71 motored Shays draw very close to one amp without towing any cars.

 

There are several low current rare Earth can motors that will work in a MDC Shay (NWSL sells a remotor kit).

 

As Rich mentioned above get your Shay working super smooth before you convert it to DCC or you will be pulling out some major hair.

 

   

 

 

 

Mel

 

Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

[B & O Bob]

Thanks for the advice.  I still have hair so I think I'll keep it. 

[SouthPenn]

I saw somewhere stronger magnets for open frame motors. They slowed the motors RPM and increased the torgue.

I'll try to find them again.

[RR_Mel]

SouthPenn

I saw somewhere stronger magnets for open frame motors. They slowed the motors RPM and increased the torgue.

I'll try to find them again.

 

I found this post from 2014.  Scroll down to Ron High’s post, his link still works.

 

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/744/p/232324/2599802.aspx

 

 

Mel

 

Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

[SouthPenn]

Found the magnets.

[Ron High]

Everything I said in my post in 2014 still holds true.I have since done more magnet conversions for DC 70s in Hobbytown. i guess I have a thing for Hobbytown drives. I run DC only even in newer Bachmann diesels I have removed the DCC boards in some non sound units so the will run well with other DC engines. So I can't help with DCC issues. However I do know that it is important for the motor to be isolated from any metallic frame components. Older DC 70 motors had one brush pickup lead grounded to the frame.In fact the Hobbytown units had only one wire to the forward truck the rear truck fed the power through the frame to complete the circuit. I think Bowser had a kit to isolate the brushes from the frame. I have read that the engines that you guys are discussing take some effort so take your time and have some fun.

Ron High

Not quite 70 but its coming.