Hello,
I finally have room to setup all of my dads (and mine I guess) old HO scale trains. We collected more from the "toy" era so a lot of Tyco/Bachmann operating accessories and such. I see the appeal of DCC and watched a video recently of someone who converted TycoUS1 trucks using DCC and I would love to do this to make my future layout more active.
If you stayed with me this far I appreciate it as I kind of segwayed a bit at the beginning there. The only way I will switch to DCC is if I can get all of my old accessories to function. I know the loading/unloading stuff will work fine, but is there a way to get the track block functions of things like the Bachmann Bascule Bridge, Disaster Crossing, or the Tyco crossings to work properly with DCC?
Thanks for any information.
Yes, it's exactly the same as with DC. Gap the rails, route the power through the switch on the bridge so it kills track power when the bridge is up.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Do these accessories actually do train detection, seeing where a train is and acting accordingly? An example would be animated crossing gates or flashers. If so, it's likely that you would need a different kind of detection system.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Given these accessories are early tyco and bachmann I seriously doubt they actually do block detection. (I could be wrong)
That said anything is possible. And just about every track accessory made should work with DCC (sometimes with minor tweeks) But to accurately tell you the amount of work done, we would need to look at the accessory in question and your operating intentions with it. (ie: Does it have a motor and do you want it to auto raise/lower)
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
No, they just need some power (plain AC usually, from an old power pack) and they incorporate a switch that cuts power to a track section when the bridge is up. An electrical switch is an electrical switch, DC or DCC. Definitely no detection in those things. It was push the button, bridge goes up, if the train is coming, it stops. Dead. Good thing they had traction tires so they wouldn't slide too far. The jackrabbit off as soon as the bridge went down and the contacts closed again.
Oh - if keep alives are installed in the DCC locos, they WON'T stop with just simply cutting power to the rails. Stop blocks would have to be implemented, the contacts on the bridge could trigger a relay which could handle that.
Thank you everyone for the information.
I'll make a list of the accessories I have, off hand I know there is:
Bachmann Bascule Bridge
Bachmann Cattle Crossing
Bachmann Disaster Crossing
I purchased a house last June and plan on having a large layout in the basement. First step is laying a hardwood floor, then building tables, so I am definately a ways out.
cheap4twFirst step is laying a hardwood floor
I know it's a little off-topic, but hardwood floors are not common in basements for a reason. It only takes a small amount of moisture seeping, leaking in or overflowing from a heating system or clothes washer to create a real mess.
You might try posting the question on the Layouts and Layout Building forum. We're model railroaders. We know basements.
When you get those accesories running, though, please post some videos for us. They're really classics and you'll be glad you hung on to them.
MisterBeasley cheap4tw First step is laying a hardwood floor I know it's a little off-topic, but hardwood floors are not common in basements for a reason. It only takes a small amount of moisture seeping, leaking in or overflowing from a heating system or clothes washer to create a real mess.
cheap4tw First step is laying a hardwood floor
It's not that bad. But if you install hardwood you should do so over sleepers and a 1/2" outdoor rated plywood sheet as a base. I lay my sleepers on Sill Sealer: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4310390&KPID=8186163&pla=pla_8186163 (this keeps moisture from the concrete slap from wicking up into the sleeper wood where a lot of rot occurs)You'll also need:
DigitalGriffin MisterBeasley cheap4tw First step is laying a hardwood floor I know it's a little off-topic, but hardwood floors are not common in basements for a reason. It only takes a small amount of moisture seeping, leaking in or overflowing from a heating system or clothes washer to create a real mess. It's not that bad. But if you install hardwood you should do so over sleepers and a 1/2" outdoor rated plywood sheet as a base. I lay my sleepers on Sill Sealer: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4310390&KPID=8186163&pla=pla_8186163 (this keeps moisture from the concrete slap from wicking up into the sleeper wood where a lot of rot occurs)You'll also need: a good sump pump (and backup), a good dehumidifier, and power backup for the sumps if your sump kicks on during a rain storm.
A little off topic but can someone tell me what a good dehumidifier is? I have had 3 different ones in the last few years and they only last 2 to 3 years. I'm getting tired of driving them to the recycle yard. Does anyone make a dehumidifier that lasts longer?
Joe
Along with that stuff, I also have a oscillating fan on lowest speed to keep air circulating in warmer more humid weather. Three bedroom house with good size cellar.
Big box stores and Amazon good sources for dehumidifier and condensate pump. The pump eliminates concern over dehumidifier stopping because the tank is full.
My cellar also has at least three thousand book library.
A digital thermometer, humidity gauge on the wall at layout level.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
JoeinPA DigitalGriffin MisterBeasley cheap4tw First step is laying a hardwood floor I know it's a little off-topic, but hardwood floors are not common in basements for a reason. It only takes a small amount of moisture seeping, leaking in or overflowing from a heating system or clothes washer to create a real mess. It's not that bad. But if you install hardwood you should do so over sleepers and a 1/2" outdoor rated plywood sheet as a base. I lay my sleepers on Sill Sealer: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4310390&KPID=8186163&pla=pla_8186163 (this keeps moisture from the concrete slap from wicking up into the sleeper wood where a lot of rot occurs)You'll also need: a good sump pump (and backup), a good dehumidifier, and power backup for the sumps if your sump kicks on during a rain storm. A little off topic but can someone tell me what a good dehumidifier is? I have had 3 different ones in the last few years and they only last 2 to 3 years. I'm getting tired of driving them to the recycle yard. Does anyone make a dehumidifier that lasts longer? Joe
You can check Amazon.com reviews for dehumidifiers. I buy a lot via Amazon.
My latest is a Zenith. At least four years old. Don't think it is sold anymore.
Also have a Little Giant condensate pump. About $30.00.
Amazon has free shipping even for something as heavy as these are. Last I knew, free shipping over $35 or Prime.
I bought a 20 inch push gas lawn mower last summer. Just had to put the oil in and gas. Came with bottle of oil.
Thanks Rich. I'll do some looking on Amazon. Interestingly, I did look at reviews for my last 2 dehumidifiers but none of the reviews were for units more than about 18 months old. Hopefully I can find some longer term reviews.
Well I have some bad news for ya from a repairman...
It seems all the major suppliers of small portable dehumidfiers used the same sources in China for the coils. These coils walls were so thin that they just slowly leaked coolant. This is why no matter which brand you bought, you always ended up throwing them out (due to low coolant) It's similar to how most compressors are made by GE.So that leaves you two options:
Things might have improved from when I bought my last dehumidifier about 5 years ago. (Mine is starting to fail.) But I wouldn't bet the farm on that.http://forums.consumerreports.org/discussions/Heating_and_Cooling/Discussions/Dehumidifier_Reliability/heatingcooling/317.1?redirCnt=1&nav=messages
I appreciate all the information. I will definately pick up a dehumidifer and sump pump.
The current plan in regards to flooring is to install radiant in floor heating with heat provided from an outdoor wood burning furnace. House I purchased is a log home cut into the bush so no duct works in place for a normal furnace.
Here are a few pics, I'll get dimensions and post them in the layout forum in future.
I plan to relocate the cabinets so the remain functional and run the layout along the entire wall, wrapping around to stop by the door frame in the picture with the wood stove.
The best thing in that set is, "fortunately, there's no instant hamburger this time"
Julian
Modeling Pre-WP merger UP (1974-81)
DigitalGriffin Well I have some bad news for ya from a repairman... It seems all the major suppliers of small portable dehumidfiers used the same sources in China for the coils. These coils walls were so thin that they just slowly leaked coolant. This is why no matter which brand you bought, you always ended up throwing them out (due to low coolant) It's similar to how most compressors are made by GE.So that leaves you two options: Buy the extended warranty OR Get a professional unit installed which will sit beside your furance that's made in the USA. Things might have improved from when I bought my last dehumidifier about 5 years ago. (Mine is starting to fail.) But I wouldn't bet the farm on that.http://forums.consumerreports.org/discussions/Heating_and_Cooling/Discussions/Dehumidifier_Reliability/heatingcooling/317.1?redirCnt=1&nav=messages
Don:
Thanks for the info. Sorry I didn't reply sooner I was away on business.