So my well meaning wife got mre a trio of Bowser 6 axle Centuries but...
She got non DCC/sound ones since they were cheaper (even though I gave her the part numbers)
Which means I now get to add DCC/sound. Does anyone know the brand and pn for the factory installed decoders? I'm hoping for as close to plug and play as possible.
Modeling the Cleveland and Pittsburgh during the PennCentral era starting on the Cleveland lakefront and ending in Mingo junction
Bowser offers retrofit kits for many of their older run locomotives. For the C-628 with 8 pin socket it would be part no. 691-1224.
If your Alcos are a later run "executive line" you may need something else. Later runs use a 21 pin socket. Retrofit kit no. 691-1234.
http://www.bowser-trains.com/docs/instructions/691-1225%20C630,%20C630M%208%20Pin%20Retro%20Fit%20Sound%20Instruction.pdf
Bowser (Lee English) is helpful with their products. If you contact them I'll bet they will get you what you need.
Phone: 570-368-2379 Monday to Friday 9:00am to 5:00pm ET
Orders: 800-327-5126 Monday to Friday 9:00am to 5:00pm ET
Fax: 570-368-5046
24 Hours a day
bowser@bowser-trains.com
Good Luck, Ed
Thanks Ed, yes these are new run
I wanted DCC/sound installed but the Mrs wanted to save a few bucks.
Just yesterday, I added Bowser factory sound to my non-DCC C-430 (21 pin).
No big deal.
You will have to solder two wires to the speaker. That's probably the trickiest part. I'm surprised they don't do it for you. It's a get in and out quick kind of a job. I noticed the wires didn't take solder real well (I tinned the wires before attachment). And that's with a bit of flux. Weird. But they did eventually tin.
Also, they don't say which way the speaker should face in the enclosure. I went with the "regular" way with the magnet coil inside. This means your newly attached wires will have to come out of the edge of the enclosure. To get it to fit, you'll probably have to carve a little out of the enclosure for the wires to pass. You want to get a nice fit. On the C-430, the enclosure is attached by two screws at one end. This may allow a bit of opening at the other end. I intend to go back in and bolt the other end together.
With the 21 pin setup, you'll have to pry a jumper out to allow the sound electronics to go in. Be very careful. I pried up a little on each side with an appropriately sized tool (screwdriver blade, in a twisting motion). And then, when installing the new piece, I again squoze down gently and repeatedly on each side until it was seated. Gentleness and care are the key!
The kit comes with pictures. Note from the picture which side of the decoder is up.
All in all, a pretty simple operation.
Ed
You could buy just one or two sound chassis and leave the other one(s) as non-sound. For me - sound gets a little too overwhelming when more than two lomotives have sound going simultaneously.
Also, be sure you pick up the Loksound decoders rather than Soundtraxx. Better sound and motor-control.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
I have the retrofit kits, and 2 628's with 8 pin plug. Instruction says to solder the 2 brown wires, unfortunately I have 2 black, 1 purpurple 1 pink , 1 green, I too was hoping for a plug and play. i have e-mai;ed asking for help.
I recieveved a rapid response from Bowser, on my decoder use the 2 black wires for the speaker, trim the others to prevent short. Great customer service. Can't wait for the other Bowser units I have on order, this time I went for the DCC with sound now that I know that is the way I am committed.
Just looking through the various instructions for the retrofit kits. Hmm, take apart my Baldwin switchers and send them in for the $7 milled frame swap, or just buy a small milling machine.....
Of course the proper answer is always more tools!
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Randy,
You NEED a mill. My little ole Sherline is quite adequate for HO work.
Oh. By the way. The tooling and accessories will cost about as much as the machine. But it can happen more slowly. I just received $200 worth of cutters. Admittedly, that's higher than usual. But I saved on shipping.
I'm working on three projects right now: switcher drive, sound in a brass gas-electric, and lowering some brass log flats. The mill is necessary for all of them. You'll find you're using it for projects you didn't even know you had.
If you actually fall for my line and buy one, a good source of cutters is:
http://www.harveytool.com
They have an immense quantity of the most interesting things.
And for metals:
http://www.onlinemetals.com